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Posts posted by Kevin.payne.15
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Oh. Thank goodness I asked first. Thanks for the response
What do people recommend cleaning up the top of the Pistons with ? They are still in the engine and I can't remove
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Ok I'll try and measure the dome volume with the oil trick and report back
Can anyone pls send picture or confirm location of the water drain plug on he block. I appear to have two potential sites. One is under the distributer and one slightly further rear. Which is water pls
Thanks
Kevin
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Also. Just remembered. He found that the bottom end had recently been rebuilt so only replaced bearings and concentrated on head but didn't measure compression at that stage
Yep 80 bhp is about all I get
Kevin
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Why skim. The compression was low but not leaking so it's basically just a low compression engine for which the performance was unspectacular to say the least
Engine rebuilder happy to skim but wanted some volumes and as the engine is in the car it's pretty difficult now to get it to him. Hence my desire to do measurements myself
I know for instance that the bore is oversized and can measure diameter but domed Pistons more of a challenge
Kevin
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Ok so following another thread then I've determined that it's a2000 mk2 engine I have
So any idea how I work out how to measure domes etc then how much to skim off pls
Thanks
Kevin
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Hi all. I took the GT6 to. A. Rolling road to get tuned and was somewhat disappointed to find poor performance being attributed to low engine compression despite having it rebuilt 2 yrs ago
The concern is that I may have a 2000 engine rather than a GT6
Engine block number is me63527he and head number is 218225
Any idea what engine this comes from?
Also it has domed Pistons that look like they stand proud of the surface so how do I measure the capacity please ?
Also what's a decent compression ratio to go for on a lead free conversion?
Thanks
Kevin
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For mine I bought the club shop one and fitted the thin gasket and thought I would be OK.......stupid me
Two problems, first the fins at the front hit the bonnet and secondly the front tube nut was so long it also hit so I ended up with two dents. It's really really disappointing that we don't more warning from the club shop as its cost me hundreds to recover
To overcome I've filed the fins off the front and checked with plasticine that it's now clear. Secondly I had a set of short tube nuts made and chromed by a local workshop that look like the originals but are 1/4 inch shorter
Cheaper than an original at 750!
Also had to have the dents pushed out and bonnet repainted
Would I fit another one ....no. Paint the original or stove enamel And I'm sure it would look fine
Kevin
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Pete. Thanks. That's quite a long list. Where do you recommend starting
Temp compensators were new last year from Bodens (or something like that) who are the manufacturers. Other than replacing how does one check
Not come across valves in throttle plates. Where do I find?
Tickover is a bit fast ~1100 but if I slow down it goes from tick ove to stall almost instantly
Thanks
Kevin
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All.
The GT6 has started running on after turning off and occasionally I get a slight pop from the exhaust pipe. I cant be the only one to suffer this. It has a 123 distributer fitted as it previously had really bad timing issues and couldn't have the vac advance fitted Can this be the cause?
Thanks
Kevin
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Pete. Thanks yes have done some of above. Took anti roll off and remeasured with no change. Checked flatness of roll bar and its within a mm of flat. Jacked on diff and front near side was slightly down but not much. But this could be bonnet. Have considered swapping front springs over just to isolate. Worth a try?
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I've been suffering from the gt6 sagging on the near side. Measuring the gap between the ground and the wheel arch, the left is ~25 mm lower than the right at the back.
I've fitted a new spring which I think is too stiff so have had to fit a spacer to get the wheel angle about right. I've swapped the new spring through 180 to test if the spring was the cause but it's made little difference
Any ideas what to change next? My son has suggested the diff mounts?
Regards kevin
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I Have just purchased a set of 5.5 inch wheels for my mk3 gt6 which has the chrome wheel centres. The wheels need a complete strip and treatment as they are currently 3 different colours. Is it better to paint or powder coat? What colour works best or is closest to the original please that works with the chrome trim hubs? Some of the silvers look naff where as some are slightly greyish. Any suggestions?? Photos appreciated. Thanks. Kevin
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Thanks. I'll try them. To prove I'm not completely mad, the car is currently reading 15 mph while parked in the garage.
Regards
Kevin
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Thanks all. Will check drive this weekend but had resigned myself to a rebuild. Do we know anyone decent? Met one guy at the Bristol show two years ago but have subsequently lost it!
Thanks
Kevin
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Nope. Rev counter worked as normal
Kevin
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Ok so I'm not mad well not completely. Today we were sitting in stationary traffic and I looked at the speedo and it was reading that we were doing 30 mph. I revved the engine ( I must sort out the low tickover but that's another issue) and the reading went up to 70!
Honest we weren't moving. I can provide evidence from the management if required! I have absolutely no idea how this can be happening
Anyone else experienced this? Solution?
Kevin
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Yep that's what I did so at least I know what I have left at one point close to empty. I think I'll leave alone now. Kevin
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Well when I looked at the rimmer site for a post 20000 car which is mine then it looks like the fuel gets sucked out the top through a mesh. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-312415 is the part which is why I presumed a had a replacement tank.
Kevin
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Pete
Thanks for this. Where do I find it and what does it look like. If I put a digital meter on it will it smooth sufficiently to get a decent reading?
Looks like the mk 3 petrol comes out the top and then runs round a rubber pipe to the boot floor so I'll need to close up the bottom outlet on my tank - is this a bolt job or welding torch?
Thanks
Kevin
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Hi there. Does anyone know if there is a resistance difference between a fuel gauge sender from a mk 2 to a mk3 gt6
I have a mk3 and unfortunately ran out of fuel the other day with the gauge reading just under 1/4 full.
Getting it home I put 2 gallons in the tank to represent just under 1/4 full, I thought I would simply bend the arm until the gauge read 1/4
Plan was brilliant however when I took a peep at the sender it's a mk2 one. Taking it out of the tank a second time post calibration to test it at the extremes then even with the float fully up (representing a full tank) then the max the gauge reads is 3/4 full at very best
So before I swap out the sender unit does anyone know is the mk2 sender is compatible with a mk3 gauge and if there are any tests I need to do before swapping the sender unit out presuming this is in error
Thanks
Kevin
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Oh and servo is fitted that works on both front and rear. Not sure of the manufacturer
Kevin
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Thanks all. My issue is that I have been locking the rear left on heavy braking and want the fronts to bite more. I've Put new callipers on front with green stuff pads as was recommended that they were pretty good but no real difference
Will go measure any steps on the discs and make a decision
Thanks
Kevin
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If you have a gt6 mk3 from 73 then good luck hunting down the original size. Mine are the self adjusters (rubbish design) and I gave up searching and fitted the replacement but smaller ones. Be slightly careful of the brake balance if you do this and suggest a test drive on a quiet road to get the feel of them
Kevin
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Hi there. Does anyone know what the minimum thickness should be for the front discs on a gt6 mk3. The Haynes doesn't mention what it should be. Also. Does it really mater what discs I put back to replace if necessary. Club shop cheepies or drilled and grooved?
Thanks
Kevin
What engine do I have and how to measure capacity with domed Pistons that are proud
in Engine
Posted
Nice. Head off so not an option I'm afraid. Kevin