Jump to content

KevinR

Administrators
  • Posts

    1,220
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    53

Posts posted by KevinR

  1. Tom and I are in the process of setting up areas where ONLY paid up TSSC Members can access, to give somewhere private where TSSC matters can be discussed without non members seeing what is being discussed, and to give a benefit of TSSC Membership, rather than the current free for all on the Forum.

    The old "Member" user group has been renamed "Forum User", and a new user group "TSSC Member" has been created.

    We have started moving known paid up TSSC members over to the new user group, and this process will continue for a few weeks - its a manual process, comparing the club membership database with the Forum members database, then adding a bit of intelligence, as most Forum members don't use their real names and haven't filled in their TSSC membership number in their Forum profile.

    Once we get enough TSSC members moved across to the new user group, we will create some "TSSC Member" only areas and start restricting some of the things mere "Forum Users" can do so we encourage them to join the TSSC.

    In the mean time, if you are a TSSC member, please make sure your membership number is entered in the relevant field in your profile, and PM me with your real name and membership number and I'll get you moved across to the paid up members user group that will give access to the restricted areas - and earn you a nice shiny badge below your Avatar

     

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 4
  2. Before rushing to remove it, there are a couple of things you need to check first.

    Did whom ever fitted it BLOCK the normal oil feed route up into the head from the block - if they did, then you will need to unblock it before removing the external feed, as once the external feed is removed you will have no lubrication to the rocker shaft.  You can usually tell if the original feed is blocked by removing the rocker shaft and pedestals, remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over (quite a lot) on the starter motor to see if relatively small pumps of oil emerge out of the hole in the head that feeds into the rocker pedestal.

    If you find the original feed is blocked, the you can either unblock it (requires head removal), or fit a very tiny flow restrict or at the head end of the external feed pipe - a small disc of steel, with a very small hole in it - probably less than 0.5mm diameter (others on here can advise more accurately if needed)

     

  3. 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    loose flywheel sounds a good plan  ................just a pain to get to the bolts  

    would explain noise at idle when unsimpathetic  vibrations are at their best and less as it revs 

    does operating the clutch play on the noise ???

    Pete

    Try GENTLY pressing the clutch to see if it disappears as the  clutch is pressed - if it does, then loose flywheel bolts should go to the top of the list of possible causes.

    • Like 1
  4. The adapter to use on 4 cylinder engines is the WIX 24037, which is getting harder and harder to get ones hands on.

    I believe that WIX have discontinued its manufacture, so unless someone steps in and starts making an equivalent, you are unlikely to get one without paying a premium price.

  5. 11 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

    FA356AE1-48EB-4962-BC03-E798D8206E35.jpeg.a0607c644794bb7373b3280100e91ff5.jpeg

    DO NOT under any circumstances use a puller like this to remove a rear hub from a Spitfire or Herald.

    The puller is likely to fail/break and the hub will end up being distorted.

    You MUST use the correct heavy duty Churchill toll or one of the many copies that are out there - its also important to use the metal cup provided to protect the end of the drive shaft.

     

     

    triumph-rear-hub-puller-tool-spitfire-herald-gt6-vitesse-1196-p.jpg

    • Like 2
  6. When I needed a roof panel to fill in a Webasto sunroof hole in a GT6 roof, I put out a shout on the Fourm to see if anyone had a scrap roof available,  and @Graham C came up trumps with one.

    The car that it was from had long departed, so no additional GT6's were sacrificed to fill in the hole in my car's roof.

    I'm now teaching myself to TIG weld before starting to weld it in - bit by bit to avoid distortion.

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  7. As far as I can see, there is nothing wrong on the Forum side.

    Any failure to receive notifications is on the user side.

    Usually caused by over aggressive email filtering by the users email provider.

    Check your spam filter settings with your email account, you will probably find the spam folder full of notifications that never arrived.

    To ensure that notifications get through, add the email address they come from into the email "white list".

    • Thanks 2
  8. 4 hours ago, thescrapman said:

    That’s £80 a day to heat the garage!!

    I think I would put an extra jumper on.

    ????

    10 litres of (red) diesel costs £14, and we are heating a massive tent inside a building the size of a football pitch with no other heating, so the heat loss is enormous.

    I would expect it to cost about 50p of fuel an hour to heat a double garage.

     

  9. The Dantherm VA-M15 we have been using for the last few weeks lives outside the building, and the hot air is ducted in.  

    It was designed as a military tent heater, specifically to ensure that no combustion gasses get into the hot air that is being ducted into the tent or building.

    Therefore all the "dangerous" parts and combustion gasses are safely dispersed outside and the air in the tent or building is clean and safe.

    The VA-M15 pumps out 38KW of heat, and we are heating a tent the size of a quadruple garage inside a much larger building, and we are getting through about 10 litres of diesel per day.

    I would worry that one of the small 5-8KW jobbies would be inadequate to heat a garage, other than to take the "edge" off the cold - they are designed for heating camper vans and cars.

  10. I've been using a Dantherm VA-M15 to heat a rather large "workshop" for the last few weeks, and its brilliant.

    It sits outside and blows warmed air in via a pipe.

    It can be setup to either draw in fresh air and hear it, or recirculate the air from the zone being heated.

    Not outrageously expensive to run, but I wouldn't like to have to but a new (or even 2nd hand) one myself.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164912815144?hash=item266591dc28:g:aWwAAOSwHX9d-n7T&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAfx2JxQBvyf5y6%2BC%2FtqMH20k8JqDmXPDYiBdjUL60Aa1QtBFygvbIDrwJRGE%2B4mXbWfuBkm0kyWwJq4Db9Q%2Bay3Z%2FY5QbRjnvqFG4BNzhoN%2FA6V%2FlvKm5LCcZBEUqEZ33s5Yg8Gb8TmrdiKEGJKJi%2BEjmQw6FZn%2BMXE7LlS%2FrRHRpAin0P083Tk4Lemyj77ndrGkzRk%2Ffqms%2B%2B2Tqst6Ys%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_rR1ZOgYQ

     

  11. 46 minutes ago, Chris A said:

    If your current key has the actual key number not just the blank reference then they will be able to produce a key. UNI19 would be the type of key blank as you say.

    The  UNI19 key blank is for the later 1500 Spitfire Ignition AND doors (earlier MKIV and 1500 Spitfires had different ignition and door keys)

    I have NEVER seen an original Spitfire MKIV ignition / door key with the number actually stamped on it - and I have a NOS set of door locks and matching ignition lock from a late 1500 Spit and even that set does NOT have the key number stamped on it, its on a DOG TAG.

  12. To the best of my knowledge, mkiv and 1500 spitfire ignition keys do not have a key code number on them.  The code was supplied to the original owner on a dog tag with the keys, so good luck finding it now.

  13. 2 hours ago, NonMember said:

     Windows 10 just arbitrarily decides to sabotage you, and there's NO WAY to turn this "feature" off.

    Not true, you can either pause or disable the automatic updates in Windows 10 to suit your needs.

    The Automatic update can be paused for up to 35 days in the advanced options in the Windows Update section of Control Panel.

    Or you can switch Automatic Updates off completely as follows:

    1.  Go to Control Panel - Administrative Tools - Services

    2.  Scroll down to Windows Update in the resulting list

    3.  Double click the Windows Update Entry

    4.  In the resulting dialog, if the service is started, click 'Stop'

    5.  Set Startup Type to Disabled

    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, PeteH said:

    Some place`s in the world have "Sidewalk" Egg Cooking "competitions" on very hot days!.

    Pete

    I was in Death Valley last summer (2021) on the day when the temperature reached 54C, and people were trying to cook eggs on tarmac and failing dismally.

    The surface needs to be over 70C to get an egg cooking - and even then its more likely to just dry out than actually cook.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...