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KevinR

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Posts posted by KevinR

  1. 1 hour ago, johny said:

    Useful I suppose if your car doesnt have any additional degrees marked on the pulley or crankcase either side of TDC... 

    Absolutely essential on an old 1980’s VW. Tiny hole in the bell housing with a timing mark at TDC on the flywheel.

    I’ve got an old analogue Gunsons one that works a treat, never found it necessary to go for a fancy digital readout one.

  2. 5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    A quick online search for the TS4 reveals the front is also very similar:

    TS4.png.113a8dbe052f5db1a40daa0e27d5ebec.png

     

    Guys,

    We are going round in circles here - the "TS4" pictures you find online are a COMPUTER rendering that someone has produced based on their guess of what the car in the original picture looks like.

    Whoever created the rendering called it a "TS4".

    The challenge still stands to identify what the actual car is, and if it is actually a "random kit car manufacturer TS4", then I'll eat my hat.

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. 25 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    there used ti be a problem of mixing any oat based pink with previously  used blue glycol  

    https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/what-happens-when-you-mix-coolants/

    Whether this is relevant I dont know, as Paula has already said that she is using "4 Life" coolant https://4lifecoolant.co.uk/ which should be OK if it was "fitted" in accordance with the instructions.

    4Life coolant is normally red, but turns yellow if there is a head gasket leak.

    4Life coolant is usually compatible with older cars that were designed for IAT coolants (i.e. "our" cars), however it should not be topped up with IAT coolant.

    https://4lifecoolant.co.uk/faq

     

     

     

  4. 27 minutes ago, Larry Mac said:

    Using RTC2459R  without 00822T would be pointless.

    I'd need to use complete from R to T otherwise there would be many cars with RTC2459R.

    OR  I use ' FBB 052'  as my unique engine number

    Which one should I use. ?

    The DVLA don't really care what the engine number is, so long as there is one and its stated on the log book.

    You could always get a set of number stamps and make up your own number and stamp it on the block in the traditional place.

     

    • Like 1
  5. For all the people giving advice, this is a 6cylinder engine we are discussing and the pulley is held on with a bolt, and not a nut.

    the real tough one is the 4 cylinder engine that uses the sleeve nut, the removal of which is the subject of legend.

    the bolt on a 6 cylinder engine should be fairly straightforward to remove.  Lock the engine to stop rotation and then use an 18” wrecker bar with a standard socket.  If that fails then an impact gun will free it in seconds.

    • Like 1
  6. Just looking at the price of new pillar drills and I'm rather horrified by how much they now cost.

    I've had a 16 speed Sealey GDM120B for the last 25 years - bought from Machine Mart back in 1998.

    It's been a fantastic drill and will hopefully last another 25 years or more.

    I recall that it cost about £80 when I bought it, and it now has a list price of over £500 (or about £350 for shopping around)

    • Like 1
  7. As Johny, Keep looking.

    "Cheap" Chinese stuff is usually a false economy.

    With a VFD, you need to know what power you are going to need to provide - A 3 phase pillar drill is likely to have a 1.5Hp (ish) motor, which means you will need a VFD with a higher power output (2KW) to drive it, so not the cheapest.

    Then, if you are not competent with electrics, you MUST get an electrician in to wire up the VFD, all adding to the cost.

  8. Kelv,

    It's looking better than it could be - it looks like valve number 1 didn't fall all the way into the cylinder, and instead its head is sitting on the piston crown.  This means that there could be minimal damage to the piston crown and no damage to the bore.

    Depending on what Bernard finds when he frees the final stud, you will know whether the engine can be repaired or not - to me its looking hopeful.

     

    • Like 1
  9. 1 hour ago, johny said:

    Yes strangely doesnt appear in the Herald workshop manual but the Vitesse one which has a very similar pulley (5/8 UNF bolt) has a figure of 90 - 100lb.ft

    This is about the same torque recommended for the rear axle to hub nut which has the same size thread and of course is identical to both models so sounds more reasonable than 150 ft.lb....

    The Vitesse (and GT6) engine use a "normal" bolt, but the Herald & Spitfire use a fairly large stepped "nut".

    I cannot see how one would equate the torque of one with the other.

  10. Kelv,

    remove the head so we can see how much damage there is to the piston.

    worst case is it’s been punctured, or the cylinder wall has been damaged.

    best case is just getting a replacement head with new valves and rocker shaft.

    but until we see inside it’s all guess work.

    if you can contact Hugh Glossop and he is prepared to help you are on a winner

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