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Posts posted by KevinR
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14 minutes ago, Chris A said:
He probably keeps a stock for just such moments
very small ones - just in case !
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5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Guys,
We are going round in circles here - the "TS4" pictures you find online are a COMPUTER rendering that someone has produced based on their guess of what the car in the original picture looks like.
Whoever created the rendering called it a "TS4".
The challenge still stands to identify what the actual car is, and if it is actually a "random kit car manufacturer TS4", then I'll eat my hat.
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Still no closer to I'd ing it, but there are a few distinctive features that eliminate a lot of cars.
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If the steering is too heavy with any given steering wheel, you can always over inflate the tyres.
They will wear out in the centre faster than they should, but how many of us do enough miles during the safe life of a tyre to wear it out.
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Didnt even realise there was a storm here in Cambridgeshire - a few rain showers and that was it
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The windscreen is very Corvette like.
Looks like a forward tilting bonnet assembly
The profile of the rear edge of the door is also very interesting, clearly a two seater.
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Well its NOT a Reliant Sabra (which was a convertible) using an Ashley GT body. http://www.sporting-reliants.com/images/Prototypes/HugoSabra1.jpg
Neither is a Reliant Sabre, which was a Coupe https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reliant_Sabre#/media/File:Sabre_arriving_Schaffen-Diest_2018.jpg
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25 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
there used ti be a problem of mixing any oat based pink with previously used blue glycol
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/what-happens-when-you-mix-coolants/
Whether this is relevant I dont know, as Paula has already said that she is using "4 Life" coolant https://4lifecoolant.co.uk/ which should be OK if it was "fitted" in accordance with the instructions.
4Life coolant is normally red, but turns yellow if there is a head gasket leak.
4Life coolant is usually compatible with older cars that were designed for IAT coolants (i.e. "our" cars), however it should not be topped up with IAT coolant.
https://4lifecoolant.co.uk/faq
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27 minutes ago, Larry Mac said:
Using RTC2459R without 00822T would be pointless.
I'd need to use complete from R to T otherwise there would be many cars with RTC2459R.
OR I use ' FBB 052' as my unique engine number
Which one should I use. ?
The DVLA don't really care what the engine number is, so long as there is one and its stated on the log book.
You could always get a set of number stamps and make up your own number and stamp it on the block in the traditional place.
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RTC2459 is the original part number of a short block, R means that it has been overhauled.
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The purpose of the stud is to lock the lower leaf into place on the diff.
The spacer is a anti-crush tube so that the bolt that goes through it doesnt pull the sides of the box in to trap the upper leaves.
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Some relevant articles into the "obscure accountancy/fiscal trick" that stops HMRC charging 20% VAT on our membership subscriptions.
https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-books/vbooks5500
https://www.accountingweb.co.uk/any-answers/vat-on-subscriptions-0
http://plvat.co.uk/how-membership-vat-works/
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For all the people giving advice, this is a 6cylinder engine we are discussing and the pulley is held on with a bolt, and not a nut.
the real tough one is the 4 cylinder engine that uses the sleeve nut, the removal of which is the subject of legend.
the bolt on a 6 cylinder engine should be fairly straightforward to remove. Lock the engine to stop rotation and then use an 18” wrecker bar with a standard socket. If that fails then an impact gun will free it in seconds.
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2 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:
Was going to reply then read the word Saloon, but only two small bolts on the clamp need removing to try.
Regards
Paul.
But the roof can still be removed if necessary
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Just looking at the price of new pillar drills and I'm rather horrified by how much they now cost.
I've had a 16 speed Sealey GDM120B for the last 25 years - bought from Machine Mart back in 1998.
It's been a fantastic drill and will hopefully last another 25 years or more.
I recall that it cost about £80 when I bought it, and it now has a list price of over £500 (or about £350 for shopping around)
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As Johny, Keep looking.
"Cheap" Chinese stuff is usually a false economy.
With a VFD, you need to know what power you are going to need to provide - A 3 phase pillar drill is likely to have a 1.5Hp (ish) motor, which means you will need a VFD with a higher power output (2KW) to drive it, so not the cheapest.
Then, if you are not competent with electrics, you MUST get an electrician in to wire up the VFD, all adding to the cost.
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Kelv,
It's looking better than it could be - it looks like valve number 1 didn't fall all the way into the cylinder, and instead its head is sitting on the piston crown. This means that there could be minimal damage to the piston crown and no damage to the bore.
Depending on what Bernard finds when he frees the final stud, you will know whether the engine can be repaired or not - to me its looking hopeful.
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The source I have says 90lb.ft for the Vitesse/GT6, and 150lb.ft for the LARGE Journal 4 cylinder engine (1-13/16" nut), but doesn't list a torque for the SMALL Journal engine.
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Yes strangely doesnt appear in the Herald workshop manual but the Vitesse one which has a very similar pulley (5/8 UNF bolt) has a figure of 90 - 100lb.ft
This is about the same torque recommended for the rear axle to hub nut which has the same size thread and of course is identical to both models so sounds more reasonable than 150 ft.lb....
The Vitesse (and GT6) engine use a "normal" bolt, but the Herald & Spitfire use a fairly large stepped "nut".
I cannot see how one would equate the torque of one with the other.
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Kelv,
remove the head so we can see how much damage there is to the piston.
worst case is it’s been punctured, or the cylinder wall has been damaged.
best case is just getting a replacement head with new valves and rocker shaft.
but until we see inside it’s all guess work.
if you can contact Hugh Glossop and he is prepared to help you are on a winner
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Have the nuts being used got a hole all the way through them, or are they closed at the top ?
is there enough thread in the NUT to counter bore the tapered end so that it will seat against the wheel ?
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@Sue Franklin @Tom HartleyThere is already a section on the Forum for researching the history of your car.
Appropriate BOTH if you own the car now and want to find out about its past life, OR if you used to own the car and want to know where it is now.
https://forum.tssc.org.uk/forum/46-my-cars-history/
And I've just moved this tread there.
Timing Light
in Tools
Posted
Absolutely essential on an old 1980’s VW. Tiny hole in the bell housing with a timing mark at TDC on the flywheel.
I’ve got an old analogue Gunsons one that works a treat, never found it necessary to go for a fancy digital readout one.