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Roger

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Posts posted by Roger

  1. Short update.... The head is till on the engine block since I do not have anything to replace it with at the moment. I'm currently cleaning up my HC cylinder head which might replace the current one in case of a crack. Electrical issues should be eliminated by now, the only thing I have not replaced is the coil. Currently running the engine with a 123 ignition dizzy + Bosch blue coil, and timing is adjusted and correct. Seems to work fine when checked with timing lamp so coil also assumed to be ok. But as soon as the engine gets warm (ish) it looses power and finally stalls. One thing that confuses me is the fact that compression test shows really good results for both cold and warm engine. If there is a crack in the head that opens up with heat and the crack is big enough to make the engine stop, then how come compresion test is perfect also on warm engine??? This makes me thinkt that the leak (if there is one?) is "outside" cylinder compression, so valves are also eliminated as root cause. I also re-checked and adjusted valve clearance so it is not too tight which might cause the valves not to close properly when warm. Thoughts? Inlet manifold leak? I usually don't use any sealant or glue when assembling these things but I did add some this time in case that was the leak. No improvement...

  2. On 25/07/2023 at 09:31, Pete Lewis said:

    might be worth checking the dizzy cam splndle is not worn and wobbling the timing 

    There IS something weird with the timing! I checked the static timing with a light bulb, and it was at least 20 or 25 degrees BTDC, far away from the 10 degrees according to WSM. Only had a few minutes for the test, will look closer at it on Monday. The high compression results confuse me, I want to elininate every possible root cause before removing the head.

    My old HC engine has a 22D dizzy and this engine has a 25D. Anyone know if they are interchangable? I would like to test with another distributor 

  3. On 24/07/2023 at 12:25, Roger said:

    Thats my main concern. I don't have another cylinder head, that is the only one I have!

    I might have to correct myself: The cylinder head from my original early Vitesse HC engine looks very similar to the 2000 Mk I head. I know the crankshaft and many other things differ, have not had a chance to put them next to each other for comparison yet. Anyone know if they are interchangable?

  4. 22 minutes ago, Iain T said:

    Forgive me for saying but it might have been a good idea to check the valves with the engine running before taking the manifold off? 

    In hindsight yes. However, I just assumed that in order to repair sticky valves, the cylinder head (and manifolds) have to come off anyway. So the end result would have been manifold off anyway. Is there a way to fix that valve without removing the cylinder head? Even if it is possible (?) I think I would prefer to look at all valves given the state of that inlet valve. I just pray that there are no cracks.

  5. Interesting. It is very difficult to get a picture of it, but there is plenty of oil on top of inlet valve, cylinder 6. I guess it should not be there... Well as long as there are no cracks I'm good. Just another character building moment...

     

    DSC01127 (2).jpg

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  6. 11 hours ago, johny said:

    I'll add a krona and say I think the engine has sat around a while so a valve(s) stem has corroded and now doesnt slide smoothly in its guide.

    Euro € is the local currency on the island, but you might be right regarding the valve stems! 🙂

  7. 5 hours ago, Adrian said:

    replaced seals (obviously old and brittle), spindles etc, and......no discernable change once hot and continued to run fine

    I pray to God that I have the same root cause here, and not a crack in the cylinder head that opens up with heat. Sticky valves are next on the list to check after replacing gaskets. I will keep you posted...

  8. 11 hours ago, Iain T said:

    My £1 bet still stands, what's the Swedish conversion! Oops sorry Finnish.

    Interesting thread drift, natinality is confusing in my case. The Åland Island was part of Sweden for 800 years, now part of Finland but autonomous and we have our own goverment & flag. My first language is Swedish but I have a Finnish passport. In short, I'm a Swede with a Finnish passport....

  9. 16 hours ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

    Is there too much heat from the exhaust manifold adversely affecting the carbs?

    I'm fortunate to live on an island far away from the extreme heat waves we see on the news. Outdoor temp was about 65F / 18 C when the engine failed, I assume the air was cool enough. Air flow arrangement as on original cars.

  10. 3 minutes ago, Iain T said:

    Putting my head above the parapet just multiplying 14.7 by the CR isn't really accurate

    Yes, as I wrote above the device was very cheap and it has definitely not been calibrated. I don't trust those values either. But that cheapo device would at least indicate if the gasket had blown completely and lets say I had only 20 PSI on one or two cylinders.

  11. I also think manifold gasket is quite unlikely but I will change it tomorrow since I have one in the garage. The engine is kind of a "bitsa" with a mix of 2000 Mk I parts and parts from an early Vitesse HC engine. I have a vague memory that the inlet manifold from the HC engine did not fit very well. I think the exhaust manifold is from the 2000, they did not match so good.

    If new manifold gasked does not improve things then head will come of...

     

  12. 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

    the fact its seems ok cold but spits when hot could well be a head crack opening up

    Thats my main concern. I don't have another cylinder head, that is the only one I have! The nearest second hand cylinder head is 2000 miles away....

  13.  

    This is also one of the parts I suspect. I do have a spare one in my boxes. Just my opinion, but I think that design with "clamps and pivots" to attach the inlet / exhaust to the head on Mk I engines is one of the worst designs on a Triumph and also one of the main reasons that I want a Mk II engine in the future. I did notice that the bolts to these "clamps and pivots" was not tighten properly (always have the feeling that they will snap) so I think there is a possibility that I have massive leaks in between the cylinders around this gasket. Plan is to remove it for inspection. I will keep you posted...

    Thanks all for your feed-back and advice, much appreciated!

     

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  14. 8 hours ago, johny said:

    How has this problem started? One trip out it was fine and the next it did this with nothing changed inbetween?

    The problem is that there has never been any trips with this engine. The car has been in my garage for about four years and I have only driven it very short distances basically "on my back yard". I bought the engine from a scrap yard in Sweden and it is used "as is". I have not take it apart, and I have not had a chance to drive it on a longer trip.

  15. 46 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    did you have throttles open on the compression test ???

    DOH!!!! 😖

    I think I forgot. What impact would that have on the test? Will try again and make sure to have them fully open.

  16. Thanks Ian and Johny, I have also been thinking of the valves, I might have to remove the cylinder head. The reduction in power is dramatic, I barely limped home at 5-10 km/h. This is also confusing since I guess more than one cylinder must fail in order for power to drop so much? I have not replaced the ignition coil yet, will check that too just to be sure.

  17. 10 minutes ago, Iain T said:

    Roger, have you checked the air piston diaphragm for splits? Without a good seal the vacuum cannot raise the air piston. 

    Iain 

    Yes, checked that. I know that even a tiny hole can cause problems

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