Roger
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Posts posted by Roger
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5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
sorry you have jet lag
The ferry to Sweden takes two hours and we have one hour time difference to Stockholm. We call it the ferry lag.
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1 hour ago, johny said:
are you talking about the float valves when you say jets?
It must be obvious to anyone reading my posts that English is not my first language. I use some weird expressions. I frequently have to Google to find out the correct name for the part. However, using the "correct" term can sometimes cause confusion on forums until I found out the equivalent slang word used by everyone exept me 🙂 Thanks for correcting me Johny. I'm not offended in any way when people do that. On the contary it helps a lot when I try to improve my English and reduce my lingual handicap. The better I can explain the problem, the better support I get.
Can someone explain to me why the float valves below are called a JET in the ad?
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1 hour ago, johny said:
if your carb is sucking much air in through that connection it will upset the mixture
That was my thinking. The crack (its big!) works as an air leak, reducing the vacuum. The vacuum is also lifting the piston in the carb (wrong word again, what is it called?). Less vacuum, piston does not go up, less power. No idea if that rambling makes any sense...
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1 minute ago, dougbgt6 said:
lug that fits in a slot on the carb
Lugs in corect positon, checked.
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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
was it ok before you had the flooding ?
Not sure. I bought this engine for less than 100 pounds, and have not done anything else than fixed the cylinder head. I guess I should be grateful that it runs at all. Carbs are from old HC engine and has not been used on the road for about 4 years, don't remember their performance, but I think they where ok. Must check those diaphragms. I think it is the same issue as with holes in diapghragms as with those f&¤%#& rubber slivers. Even tiny ones can cause big problems.
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2-Litre 2000 Mk I engine. Some of you might have read my ordeals with flooding carbs and now when I finally got the engine started I have another problem. The engine idle ok at 800 rpm, but will not rev properly and there is a severe lack of power. The only time I have had similar problems before was with my old beloved Volvo 240 (also with Stromberg carb) and the root cause then was a small hole in the rubber diaphragm. In that case it would also start, idle, but did not have power to accelerate since the piston would not move much in the carb.
The rubber vacuum connection has a very big crack and I solved it with a bodge made of rubber tejp. Looks awful, and it probably leaks a lot. I will have to find a better solution. Could this be related to my lack of power, low revs? Thoughts?
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Well the flooding is finally sorted! I DID find some tiny rubber slivers last time I took them apart. I had to use a magnifying glass to find them they where extremely small, but I guess they don't have to be big in order to cause problems. I have quite a lot of jets, both used ones taken from old carbs that I bought and newish ones from carb kits. I read somewhere that it might improve things if you tap the tip of the jet with a small hammer, and some people suggest to lap the jets by turning the tip and use a slightly abrasive paste of some sort. I have tried both, but unfortunately I have poor traceability regarding which jets I have been "improving" and which I have not touched. It is quite possible that I have "mended them to destruction" by doing this, and the jets I that tried this time where ok. The only thing I haven't toched at all is the pump and the pressure regulator (2,2 PSI at carb). I guess I will never know the true root cause, but as long as they don't flood I can live with that uncertainty... Thanks all for your help.
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54 minutes ago, johny said:
The washers shouldnt affect fuel level as that is set by adjusting the float to 18mm as per the manual
I think what they mean is that if you add a washer (= thicker washer in my mind) after adjusting to 18 mm, then a thicker washer will lower the fuel level. Otherwise I don't see how it would have an impact.
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18 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
I notice the needle valves, in the back of the picture, don't have washers
Most CD 150 gasket kits comes with two washers for the jets. One thicker and one thin. I have tried both. I think WSM mentions that you lower the fuel level in the carb slightly by using the thicker one. I have tried both, don't know which one was the original for a Vitesse (?). Which one do you use in your carbs?
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
can you try a gravity jockey fuel container to show they dont leak as gravity fed ?
That would be interesting to try, but the weekend is over and work will take most of my time again. I will travel (for work) soon so there will probably a pause in the garage. Gravity fed carb will be on the “to-do list”.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
which way up are the arm rivets
I don't have any pictures of which way they where, and they are dismantled now. Again. Quite sure the floats where in the correct position (including the 18 mm). The fact that I don't SEE any rubber slivers or flakes when I take them apart is of course not a 100% garantee that they are NOT present, but I have certainly done what I can to eliminate them. And the Viton tipped jets I tried have a fine mesh protecting the tip from particles. Dit not find anything on the mesh either.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
the floats on stroms are generally solid foam so cant puncture
Well thats good news, considering that the old black floats with one arm don't seem to be available anymore, and the white ones do not fit in my carbs. At least not without some modifications.
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I think the upside down mistake is more likely on later carbs with the white floats with "two arms"? I use the carbs from my early 1966 HC engine which have the black float. I don't see how you can put the black one upside down, given the fact that they only have one "arm" etc. But I guess everything is possible.
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2 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
Chris Witor supplies Viton tipped needle valves for Strombergs
Thanks Nigel, I did not realize that the "filtered" jets I tried earlier actually had Viton tips. Unfortunately it did not help in this case. I will have to look closer at the floats (leaky?) and their position. I'm also very tempted to buy those Grose jets, just out of curiosity and test them myself since the ratings are so different depending on who you ask. Slivers, contamination and too high fuel pressure seems unlikely to me at this point.
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I finally found a cheapo pressure gauge in my garage, never used it before. HUCO should give 2,2 PSI according to spec, and I measured 2,8 PSI (Malpassi regulator not used, only the pump).
HUCO was Made in Germany and the gauge was made in Peoples Republic of China. I have more faith in the pump than the gauge. -
This ordeal just bumped me up to Blackbelt Triumphero! Always look on the bright side of life....
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21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
what happens with a Hucco when there is no demand , does it stop or keep going
im thinking the pump is the common denominator here not the Strombergs . proven by you have tackled the float needles till blue in the face and its not solved the leakage
can yo put the old mechanical pump so youre back to a triumph design and see how that works
why did you need the electric pump . ????
Yes, the Huco stops at 2,5 PSI, it does not keep going. This is easy to verify since it makes some ticking noise which stops as soon as the carbs are full. Neither my car nor this engine had the original mechanical pump when I bought them. The Vitesse HC engine had an (incorrect) high pressure electric pump that produced more than 4 PSI (according to its manual). I choosed the Huco pump because of the poor quality of spare parts nowadays, especially anything made of rubber like a pump diaphragm. I can't go back to mechanical pump since I never had one. The reviews and ratings for the Grose jets is pretty much 50% pro and 50% say they are no good. I have not yet read a negative rating about the Huco.
The main objective with the Malpassi regulator was not to control pressure, it was the flow I wanted to have more even and less pulsating. As a side effect it would reduce pressure in case the Huco did not meet the spec and deliver higher presure than specified. Kind of redundant systems.
Another character building moment.
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2 minutes ago, johny said:
I suppose you could try running the pump with the bottoms off the carbs and then raise the floats manually to see if they cut off the flow at the valves
Thanks, yes I have not tried that. But it will be a very messy operation. The risk of fire makes me nervous.
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This is driving me nuts!!!! They flooded again. Both of them. I'm clueless now, absolutely stumpt. I don't have a gauge to measure fuel pressure but how can an expensive high quality Huco low pressure (2,5 PSI) pump AND a malpassi fuel pressure regulator produce a pressure high enough to cause the flooding?! It certainly does not look like high pressure when I fill a bottle to flush the lines. Fuel pressure should be between 1,5 and 2,5 PSI, and if it is wrong pressure then it is more likely to be too LOW. If that can cause flooding??? The floats do not contain any petrol as far as I can see when I take them apart but they are the only thing I have not replaced so far. I don't find any slivers or particles whatsoever when I take them apart. Just clean petrol. I have to go for a walk, or men in white coats will soon be here.
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Just removed the jets, not a trace of slivers, flakes or particles despite visual inspection using magnifying glass. This time I tried these "filtered" ones. No joy. I have tried them before, flooded that time too. The tip is increadibly "wobbly" on these jets. I'm still curious about those Grose jets. Feels like I have nothing to loose trying them at this point... Now I will go back to original versions and try again. I will keep you posted... Thanks for all the feedback.
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8 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
a kit including Viton tipped needle valves
Thanks Nigel. I Googled without success for Viton tipped valves for Stromberg CD 150. Could you please provide a part number or a link? Thanks!
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3 minutes ago, johny said:
Have you replaced the standard valves Roger? Like anything they can wear...
Yes, bought new one a few years ago but the car has not been on the road for years, so wear not likely. Huco fuel pump which deliver max 2,5 PSI plus malpassi petrol king pressure regulator.
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12 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
However, are you SURE your floats are the right way up?
Thanks Ian and Doug. I don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, but I have consider everything else you suggest. I use the original black floats which seems to be a poka-yoke design to me. I don't need the workshop manual any more. I can remove these carbs and take them apart in less than 15 minutes. Blind folded. I'm looking for a sustainable solution that will prevent flooding, and I have tried pretty much everything exept those fancy jets.
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5 minutes ago, johny said:
Sorry its a while ago I read the comments which were along the lines of being expensive for little gain
No worries, I did find a thread with some useful info. Apparantly some people have used them for decades without problems, and some people think they are rubbish. Most reviews are about SU's but I guess they relate to Strombergs as well, exept that I have never heard of jets with viton tips for Strombergs (?). I will wait for uncle Pete's verdict 🙂
https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/to-grose-or-not-to-grose.80634/
Lack of power
in Engine
Posted
Pinhole in the carb diaphragm is the only cause for lack of power that I can think of at the moment. Unfortunately I don't think I have any new ones in stock. The poor quality of rubber parts is a common topic on forums, and I have heard stories about receiving "elephant condoms" when ordering these parts. Any recomendation where to buy Stromberg diaphragms in order to get good ones? Thanks in advance.