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Rear suspension refurb and diff


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Hello all, many thanks for the advice regarding the front suspension and bearings I am now planning the rear work and as the title suggests it includes the dif. I haven't started yet but wanted to seek any words of wisdom. This is what I'm planning but I know it can get out of hand,

-Strip, de-rust and paint.

-Whilst stripped, clean, de-rust and paint body and chassis where accessible.

- Mark at jigsaw said you don't need the hub puller?

-But I have a diff leak which I know is no surprise but if stripping is it worthwhile taking off and redoing gaskets. Looks to me like the front oil seal is on the way out. So get reconditioned unit or do it myself?

If I take the diff off I'll be removing the leaf spring, does anyone have any dimensions to check if it is sagging (current ride height seems ok).

Rebuild with new jigsaw cv conversion - advice on the dreaded end float.


I think I've attached the photos ok. I did wrongly post this under the suspension group.




1972 GT6 mk3 rotoflex




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It is all just nuts and bolts. Follow the manual, be prepared for a few difficult bolts etc. But if the long lower wishbone bolt is seized, you can either just leave it (if the trunnions are OK) or get the bolt drilled out.

The diff, assuming a std GT6 one, changing the pinion seal is easy, and can be done in situ if needed. However, taking the diff out is simple enough, and if you are painting under the car a sensible thing to do. Do the quarter shaft seals, not easy to get the bearings off but recon shafts are cheap enough, or get the bearing pulled by a garage/engineering company. Assuming the diff is quiet, no excessive backlash in the CWP (again most people only look at the play in the diff part by twiddling the pinion and seeing the free play in the quarter shafts. What you want  to check is the play in the teeth of the CWP, should be tiny) then a re-seal  is cheap and all you need. Why risk possible poor quality components in a recon diff?


If spring ride height is good, leave it well alone.


As to CV conversion, saw on set yesterday that was totally splined where the hub fits on the end of the shaft. That really worries me, as I understand the should should sit against a shoulder on the shaft, and the bearings shimmed to "fill" the gap Otherwise tightening the hub nut will just squash the bearings up tight?? or have I missed something? Worth doing some research first. I know the canley classics conversion definitely is not entirely splined (ie still have the shoulder for the hub to fit against) and works very well over long periods of time. No idea where these other ones have come from though, didn't get a chance to ask. Maybe they use a different method of setting the hub up?? anybody else know?

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