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Gearbox Rebuild


kramnamrof

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In all the years I have never needed any special pullers, leave the outer race circlip in place tap shaft thro the race tap the race from the case with a drift in the cut out , doing both at the same time if you like

Re assemble a 4 sync vertically support mainshaft on a dummy input in a vice lower case and mainshaft over and tap bearing needs extra pair of hands but this stops the lst 2nd collets from continually dropping out , let gravity work for you

Pete

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All disassembled now and guess what I found, broken springs in the 1st/2nd gear synchro hub. I guess this has resulted in more wobble in the outer gear which in turn has caused the wear on the inner hub spines. The hunt is now on for a replacement hub assembly.

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Ive never seen one that bad,  if you consider the torque thats going through this assy the balls and springs have no effect on the wear

Shown  once they have left the out of gear detent they just press on the inside of the sleeve, they have nothing to do with the loads transmitted   they only affect the snappiness of the gear change making it a postive action,

Pete

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  • 2 weeks later...

 I have managed to source a NOS synchro hub assembly (part number 156911 33 tooth) however it dosed't fit on the mainstay. It will engage 3/4mm onto the drive spines then jams solid. The issue appears to be the gaps between the splines on the hub are too narrow. My old one by comparison is quite a sloppy fit on the splines. Did Triumph have different spline sizes on hubs but with the same part numbers.

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No but there are small differences with single  rail  and 3 rail  look similar but fits of hubs is very different

 

But I would run a carborundum stone down the mainshaft with the problems of your hub the mainshaft splines  may have some small blemish 

Which is all it takes to  jam a hub

Pete

 

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