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Everything posted by daverclasper

  1. Colin's look like big bit's though , I always have that same Xmas tree effect and it's very fine particles, like a sludge.
  2. Very interested in this, regarding, moderns often being easy to fix apparently?, with some login and maybe web info?. Always fixed everything myself, apart from modern vehicles, as never had one. Thinking of getting another camper van, as had a few (newest was a 96, though 8 years old when I bought it). Don't have enough time to do too much work on a older one (even though I love them), which may well need immediate and ongoing TLC, so thinking, maybe around a 2010. So. Are more modern vans/cars, practical, (without lot's of dosh), if your prepared to research and do a bit of work on all the sensors/electronic issues it may have/arise?. Thanks, Dave
  3. Many thanks folks. Something Dave Twigger (OD Spares) advised that I'd not heard of before and may be useful for folk in the future with my symptom. There is a narrow drilling/passage way between the side of the plug threads of the pressure relief valve and the solonoid area. This can block up with small dirt particles and need a rodding through. Hoping mines just the solonoid, as won't have time to check this out at the mo.
  4. Hi. It's started to, not disengage, intermittently. So maybe holding pressure even when off?. Any ideas, about wether the solonoid internals need a bit of lube of some sort? Thanks, Dave
  5. Cheers Pete. Any lube in the bottom for the shuttle and also the other moving parts? Oil may dry out quickly with the heat anyway and hamper movement?. Maybe, I am over thinking this? I will replace all the orings
  6. Cheers Pete. What actually is it please? and assuming it's not delicate?. Also, after cleaning, is it left dry, ie, not oiled or lubed?. Cheers, Dave
  7. Thanks. It's stripped down (the same as the last time I did this job and, was cleaned and all 5 O rings repaced ) as in the above photo. The thingy in the bottom has freed up now and rattling when Solonid is shaken. Just wondering why it got stuck again, relatively soonish (car has been used all year around and oil was changed about 8 years/15000 miles ago and oil still pretty clean, will change it anyway) and any info in what to soak it in, to make sure the bottom thing is really cleaned out would be good. Cheers, Dave
  8. Thanks Wimpus. Hoping it is just a Solonoid issue as I have, as have stripped it down and it's not clacking in the bottom area when I shake it, like it's supposed to. Have put brake cleaner down there and no joy. Maybe try carb cleaner or cellulose thinners?. I'm not sure what this part is as such?, can it be encouraged to free up, by poking something down the body?. Also freed this part up when had OD problems about 8 years ago and car used regularly since. wonder why it's stuck again?. Anything to put down there that would really clean it and maybe make it last longer?. Cheers, Dave
  9. Hi. I did this job about 8 years ago and can't remember what was where (I think there was some miss info on positioning then on either, Buckeye, Parts list, and WM then and still is). I think I've established the canister filter is on the offside, though not sure if the Pressure Relief Valve is in the center (Pump on the nearside), or the tother way around. I have a memory that the PRV was central when I did it before?. Cheers, Dave
  10. Thanks, will do the magnet test. No, not a Waso Colin. By the way, are you ok?. Conspicuous by your absense lately I thought.
  11. Hi and thankyou all for the response. Have tried to attach photo's from my phone, though no joy, though I guess it should be simple. The 3 pronged catch looks the same/very simular to the 3rd photo and was a blackish colour, though when I fine sanded a small section looks to me to be a copper colour, rather than a more yellowee colour I associate with brass. I would have thought though that brass would be more suitable, as a harder metal?. Cheers, Dave
  12. Interesting that one, even if it's running well?. Dave
  13. Hi. Picked up an old petrol cap for Vitesse for pennies, that the flatish 3 prong copper thing (looks about 1mm thick), has a split. Looks easy to solder?. This will anneal/soften it, and I assume a bit of the original horizontal strength would be better?. After soldering, shall I dunk it in water, or leave alone, or any other ideas please?. Cheers, Dave PS. I guess anyway, the copper will be softer than the solder, so may break/split again?, though worth a go me thinks. Cheers, Dave
  14. Hi Paula. Good luck with the carb. Van looking very cute (hope Fergal's not getting jealous) Dave
  15. Is that listening for smoothest running, or other things?.
  16. Thanks Pete. Will keep as is then. Never quite got the hang of the lifting pin method, though have read all there is to know I reckon, so have always been going off plug colour.
  17. No. Thats what was making think its not the carbs playing up. Same slight turn of mixture screw on each carb, approx 30 degrees, 3 times over 6 months has each time given a good plug colour for a bit. Not many miles in this period, maybe 700. Air filters are still clean. Was pinking very slightly this weekend, maybe very hot weather. Not worried about this, or the mixture either. Just interested.
  18. Hi. Since winter to the very hot recent/current weather, I have leaned the mixture off, three times on each carb, totaling about a quarter of a turn on each one. Car was running ok, though plugs very sooty, except after a long run. Is this amount of adjustment normal, as I understand they will run richer in the less dense ,hotter weather?. "Interested", rather than my usual "worried". Thanks, Dave
  19. I seem to remember that the fan goes past the key and spins, though when the nut is tightened up, the fan is secured? Not sure if that's the query now it's back together?.
  20. I have on occasion prised apart seams that haven't blown at all, though showing signs of inner rust. Used a thin wire brush with a drill to clean up. Treated with Kurust, then primer and paint. Sqeezed back flat with Mole Grips, or G clamp with small blocks of wood to not dig in and also spread load (surprisingly neat result). Treated the back/internal area with mix of Waxoil and maybe 10 % engine oil (oil seems to stop it drying out?). Is not showing problems yet, after quite a few years and car is kept outside (under a cover).
  21. Yes, the theory never seems to quite work?
  22. Hi. Even with a good restoration, are these just left alone with (often) rust inside?, as difficult to sort out, and will still last for ages anyway, without rot issues?. Dave
  23. Thanks for the info. There's a used Herald/Spitfire Alt/Fitting kit for sale (Alternator untested, from a non runner) for £20, so wondered if worth a punt as a plan B. Have some charging issues with dynamo set up which I'm (hopefully) working through, so thought maybe worth a risk, as maybe some new Alternators not great anyway). Cheers, Dave
  24. Ahh. Maybe, with my low charging issue, it's why I've only had to replace one bulb in 8 years (brake light)?. Dave
  25. I did use a narrow hose close to the Exhaust manifold sealing areas and my ear. It appeared to identify, even some very small leaks. Dave
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