Mad4classics Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 OK, leaking pinion oil seal. Spitfire Mk3 with FC numbered axle. Got fed up with topping up the diff and mopping the floor; it's getting so it sprays a line of oil under the car. Instead of a castle nut and split pin (or a nylock which it shouldn't be on an FC diff ?) uncovered this sort of double castle nut with no split pin and no visible hole for one. Not seen a nut like this before! What's the best way to tackle this; still mark and return to original position? or find WM torque figure? David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 it looks like a pretty std solid spacer nut the only sure way is once the seal is out pop out the outer race and withdraw the spacer it will be a solid tube 9 do up to wsm torque ) or have the omega ring to collapse ( do it up to where it came from) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad4classics Posted December 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Thanks Pete, Spotted the single split pin hole now (after a bite to eat and a cupa) no split pin in it though! NOT FITTED. Was expecting a "standard" castle nut. My Unipart WM doesn't give a torque figure for the pinion nut, doesn't seem to differentiate between solid and collapsable spacer, just says mark and return. Intereurope manual gives 90-100; does that sound right? Is it then on to next castle nut position? David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 glad you found the pin hole . there are two figures in the WSM 9/16"thread dia. unf 70-80 lbft of 5/8"unf 90 -100 lbft pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad4classics Posted December 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Hardest part has been getting the old seal out. New seal somewhat thinner; is it best to drive fully home or flush with face? David Ps. now found a new way to drain diff as no drain plug; but you get a soggy sleeve and EP90 isn't a substitute for Brylcreem! Not that I've got that much hair anymore. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 The replacememt being plastic is thinner so its important its popped in square and nicely aligned so flush with front or fully home will do that ok, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad4classics Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 Thanks for your help @Pete; all back together now. Nut was 9/16 UNF - so the lower torque figure. Decided to put the seal flush with face in case I ever need to do this again! Took just shy of a pint to refill - must have pretty much drained the diff. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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