Robin

more advice needed... I’ve got a spare set of CD150S carbs that I’d like to refurbish. I checked the stamp on the needle of one of the carbs and it reads 6AC - is that the correct needle for a standard Mk2 vitesse engine? I undid the piston grub screw on the second carb but the needle simple won’t budge - even with quite a lot of force. I’m going to replace the needle anyway so don’t mind damaging it but are there any tips on how to get it out? Thanks

Ok - thanks

So if I swop them around as per the manual do I need to drain the coolant out of the heater again or can I swap without doing this?

Ok - good to know. Thanks

Hi Again In I previous post I asked for help in sorting out my heater problems - and that's now all fixed. But I've just seen s post on FB that shows that I've connected the hoses the wrong way round - I think the hose from the intelt manifold should be connected to the heater valve and the bottom hose connected to the heater. From the picture you'll see mine is the other way round. Everything seems to be working Ok so my question is am I OK to leave it as it is or should I re-connect the right way round? Thanks

Yep - much better! Thanks Pete

Agree - Weird!!

Hi Pete ok - tried increasing the idle screw on the front carb to increase the revs and this time when I lift the piston the engine does respond but at the same time the rear carb starts to leak Petrol through the brass tube. When I decrease the idle screw on the front carb, raising the piston has no effect but the rear carb no longer leaks. think Friday would be good! Is 10am ok?

Hi Pete i’m going to have another play today but if I get no luck I could get over to you on Friday or Saturday morning if you’re ok with that - we can keep our distance! Robin

Yep- that pretty much sums it up - So I guess I need to check the linkage. Is it just a question of loosening the linkage bolt?

Hi Pete i can lift the piston on the front as high as it goes but no change of engine note. Also if I lift the Piston and then rev the engine I can see the throttle plate opening so I assume the linkage is working ok. Overall performance seems fine.

Will try and check everything as Pete suggests but the performance seems ok - not down on power. Can’t work out why raising the piston on the front carb has no effect on the engine revs .

Hi Johny thanks for the reply. With the engine off the piston on both carbs rises and falls correctly but when I start the engin the piston On the rear rises slightly on tick over (about 700 rpm) but falls when switched off. When accelerating, , the piston on the rear carb rises before the front one. The other thing is that no matter how high I raise the piston on the front carb it makes no difference the the engine note so I’m not sure if this is a problem and if it is how to fix it. Any ideas?

Not sure if this is relevant but the rear carb piston raises about 3mm before the front carb piston starts to raise when accelerating. Should both pistons raise at the same time?

And this shows the ‘hissing’ from the rear carb C1120580-0434-4350-B7A7-68740580EC76.MOV

Hi All Quick update - took the carbs off, cleaned out the float chambers and valves and everything now seems ok - no more petrol leak. But I’m now after some more advice... I ‘v just noticed that the piston on the front carb sits flat but on the rear carb the piston is raised slightly ( see photos). Also, when I raise the piston on the front carb, there’s no affect on the revs but if I raise the piston on the rear carb it cuts out straight away. There’s also a more pronounced ‘hissing’ on the rear carb which I assume is air being sucked In? Any thoughts as to what I should do? thanks

I’m going to check the float chamber for debris - how do I check if the floats are solid or hollow as this seems to affect the float height.

Thank Paul

Thanks Pete - think I’ll remove the carbs to make it easier

So can I take the float chamber off with the carbs still on the car or do I need to take them off again

Pete - if I just want to check the float chamber with the carbs out of the car is it just a case of undoing the 6 screws and lifting it off or do I nee to take the piston out first as described in the article?

Ok thanks - I’ll check the float valve as a starter

More advice needed! I had a heater problem on my vitesse which is now fixed but in order to do so I had to take the twin CD 150 carbs off and the inlet manifold. I put everything back but noticed a small drip coming from the copper tube on the front carb and this poured out once the engine was turned off. I didn’t. Do anything the carbs when they were off the car so it may be just co-incidence and I hadn’t noticed as the copper tube would be covered when the air filter box is on. Any thoughts as to what might cause the petrol leak?

Quick update ... I finally took delivery of a 6mm x600 mm and an 8mm x 600 mm drill bit. I took the manifold off and put the 6mm down first of all and the blockage was absolutely solid. It took 3 or 4 goes of quite heavy pressure but eventually it gave way. I then put the 8mm down to free the rest and flushed everything until a good flow of clear water ran through. Connected everything back up and ran the car up to temperature and hey presto the heater now works! Thanks to everyone for their advice and support. But .. I now have a carburettor problem which I’ll post in the fuel section

Out of interest ANG is selling a drain tap - part number 602915A - but says it for a TR. will this fit the vitesse / 2000 as well? Does it need a fibre washer? Or is the general consensus just to fit a plug (HU805) and if so does this need a fibre washer as well ?