Robin

Thanks Darren So do I only need to bleed the rear brakes if I replace both sides?

Also - the drum was quite difficult to get off (and back on) as the shoes were pressing against the inside

I've just been checking the rear brake shoes on my Vitesse for wear (all seem OK) but I've realised that the driver side rear brakes aren't working at all! I've checked the pipes and the handbrake cable (all OK) but when I press the brake pedal nothing happens - no movement of the shoes or any other part. Can I assume that the wheel cylinder is seized? If so a couple of questions; 1. Where is the best place to get a new one? 2. What problems am I likely to encounter when fitting? 3. Do I need to bleed all four brakes or only the one I'm replacing the cylinder on? Also, If I decide to replace the shoes I'm assuming I should do both sides? Thanks Robin

Squirted the bushes with WD40 as suggested ...and the squeak has gone!! I'm assuming that it may come back at some point so if I do need to change the front is it a complicated job and are poly bushes the way to go ? Thanks

Finally managed to get the piston out using compressed air - thanks to everyone for all the advice.

I've just noticed recently that when I drive over an uneven surface I get what I can only describe as 'squeaking' coming from the front suspension. I haven't yet managed to isolate where it's coming from but I'm assuming it's something to do with the shock absorbers or springs? Any other potential sources that I should look at? Thanks Robin

Hi Steve How did you connect the two MCs together? Also, I'm assuming you fill the 'spare' MC with the fluid not the one which has the stuck piston?

H Hi Paul Sounds like fun! What did you use to clean out the grease afterwards?

I've got a Girling brake MC that I want to refurbish and then re-fit - It looks to be in good condition with no obvious wear. I've removed the circlip but can't get the assembly out - I've tried tapping the casing, heating it, lubricating the inner bore with brake fluid but nothing seems to work. One thing I have noticed is that if I push the plunger completely in it doesn't immediately spring back but instead takes quite a while for it to return to the edge of the casing - does this indicate a bigger problem?

Hi Paul Yes you're right - I've now realised that it's the clutch mc that's been changed on my Vitesse not the brake mc. What confused me is the replacement clutch mc actually has ' brake fluid' written on the lid but having now traced the pipes I can see it's actually the clutch mc. As this one has the leak I'll either need to change the seal or replace it with the original 0.625 one once I've cleaned it up. Thanks again, Robin

Hi Paul - this is my current set up. The brake mc has been replaced at some point but I need to replace a seal as there's a very smal leak. I thought I might change it for the 'correct ' mc back hence my question about bore size. Thanks Robin

Hi Paul - that's really interesting as my Vitesse currently has the larger 0.7 cylinder being used for the clutch so I assumed the 5/8 would be the for the brake. Is my set up the wrong way round? What would happen if I also used the 0.7 for the brake as well? Thanks Robin

Sorry - initilally posted to the wrong section and can't seem to delete it Picked up these two master cylinders - I'm assuming the smaller one is the brake master? It says Girling 5/8 on the casing. They need refurbishing - what's the best way of cleaning the insides? Thanks

Picked up these two master cylinders - I'm assuming the smaller one is the brake master? They need refurbishing - what's the best way of cleaning the insides? Thanks

Hi Pete Would you use a silicon sealer as well as the gasket/ spacer? Thanks Robin

Hi John and everyone else Thanks for the suggestions and I agree that it's a bit odd that both leaks started at the same time. The only thing that's changed recently (last week before this happened) is that I had the core plugs replaced on the water side so the manifolds came off - nothing changed on the 'oil side'. I've now managed to replace the missing bolt on the dizzy and tightened the fuel pump bolts as Pete suggested but I've still got the leaks as previously mentioned - there's no leak from the dipstick but a small deposit of oil around the rocker cover boIts. I've checked the hoses, emission valve and the oil filler cap (photo attached) but can't find any obstructions. The leaks don't seem to happen at tick-over - only after the car has been out for a run - I ran the car with the filler cap off (no 'wind') as John suggested but only at tick-over speed with no leaks. Went out for drive and leaks returned. I guess my only option is to replace the dizzy spacer and the fuel pump gasket and see if that cures it. It looks as though there are two sizes for the dizzy spacers - 0.006 & 0.020. How do I know which one I need? Many thanks again Robin

Thanks for all the advice Has anyone ever found a way of keeping the engine/gearbox/diff oil actually inside the car rather than on the driveway?!!

Hi Paul - so did you just put up with the leak?

Hi Pete - so if I mark the position I should be able to lift the dizzy out and refit with affecting the timing?

Thanks - will take a look. Did you need to replace the pump?

I've got two small oil leaks that appear to be coming from the base of the distributor (where it meets the block) and also from where the fuel pump meets the block. I'm also missing a bolt that secures the distributor clamp (see photo) but can't fit a new one while the distributor is in place. Could this missing bolt be the cause of the oil leak? I'm assuming that both the distributor and the fuel pump are fitted with gaskets so my questions are; 1. Can I loosen off the clamp and remove the distributor, fit new spacers/gaskets and fit a new bolt without having to reset the timing? If not are there any tips on getting the timing correct? 2. is it possible that oil could seep past the fuel pump gasket? If so is it easy to remove the fuel pump and fit a new gasket without having to drain the fuel from the tank first of all? Is there anything else I need to be aware of? Many thanks Robin

Thanks Colin - Can you let me know payment details for the boot channel?

Great - thanks for all the advice

I've just noticed a small water leak dripping down the engine block. At first I thought it might be a blown cylinder head gasket but on closer inspection I think it might be leaking from a core plug (photos attached). If it's the latter, is it it a complicated job to replace the plug and a also where would I get a replacement? One other thing - the leak only seems to occur after the engine has stopped, not while it's running. Is there any temporary sealer I could use? Many thanks Robin

Same thing happens to me - thought I was going mad as I couldn't work out how the fuel was getting through to the carbs as the fuel filter didn't seem full enough.