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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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Apart from clean terminals most attempts to remedy a stat sol mends them to destruction
pete
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Doug just fancied typo on a tablet getting all the wrong letters in the right places
who invented theseb stupid fings
yes I an avid admirer of buckeye , brill tutorials ,
pete
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Aiden
a large screwdriver and place it on the pump stick your ear on the handle and it will make a stethoscope
move around the engine till you locate the area the most sound is emmitting
DO NOT get it in the FAN or it takes A & E about 4 hours to remove it .
one easy test is put some talc powder or a lightly run the dip stick on the belt sides . some make a lot of clatter due to the belt kevlar and the Vee contact
have a listen to the alternator , pullies can split and make a clatter
Pete
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the tag with 3432 is correct these are CDSE150
the front one has the starting valve, this has a bridge n the valve connected to a outlet which is tubed to the rear unit its normal
make sure the cable pulls the choke fully open,
its also worth taking the stating valve off the carb and make sure all the metering hole in the discs inside are clear an not full of corrosion
if the discs are scored you can re face them with a oiled wet and dry fine paper, on a glass or flat sheet and sand away the scoring
dont drill the metering holes , use some soft wire or similar to clear the small holes.
both carbs should open up some throttle when the choke is used the cam bolt is adjustable
make sure no gaskets or filters are obstructing the front face ports an use engine oil in the dampers
as thes are cdse they will have the temperature compensator on the side
take it off there are 2 0 rings one at the outer case and one at the base of the small boss
these fail and air leaks in
also check the small plastic plunger is closed, this is loaded by a small bimetal strip the plunger has special settings but ignore all that and make sure the little sod is actually closed up to normal running temperature the idea is on over heating the plunger opens and allows air to bleed and bypass the throttle plates, ups the idle and weaken the idle mixture
if this is open when it needs to be closed you never set the idle mixture correctly
it is much more important that the plunger is closed when setting the mixture , if it never opens so what.
to close it tighten the small nut inside
Pete
Pete
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Hi Jon
sorry cant find any clues in my stuff
Pete
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thats a white wire youre looking for
Pete
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had the lost gearknob on a Photo shoot at Brooklands , the guy in charge of the publication was ..HUGE
a VX4/90 got lost so he jumps in my Vit6 and asks for a lift.... everything but the drivers window winder disappeared
dont know what was used to get the gears but we took off and he made comments about gee this things Bl..dy quick....I nearly said try it unladen
pete
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there's also tapping in the rear o/s top of the head which sometimes get used ( generally for heaters /etc ) but same thread
sky hook , upside down vari focals, and knee pads are all part of the classic kit.....and sticky plasters
Pete
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Yes , if you burn anything with Viton in it
Things like seals and O rings can be made with this rubber
Some head gaskets use this for seal inserts
If its burnt it is highly casenagenic and you loose your fingers, there, s no cure
Pete
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Try getting a lass in a wedding dress in the car, gave away a lass and she wanted a Porsche
well Im shoe horned in the back, shes got feet on dash board with with a drive through Salisbury
Can Can fashion on show .... not for the faint hearted
so make sure you all fit inside respectably. ?...!!!!
Pete
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The only triumph spec that ran HS6 and 2000 6pot was the 2000TC which comes back to BCY ?
It then you need to compensate for the stacks and socks
Going standard is easy , all tried and tetsted
if you fancy a run to sunny luton I can set up most but wont be reprofiling needles unlees theres no altrrnative
I will have alook on minty later and try to give some clues
where, s me slippers!!!
Pete
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i have anumber on SU spec manuals , they all say different spec ,
from an old one BDM is TR4
for a 2000 it shows hs4 AS ABL or hs6 AS BCY ( but thats for the big saloon ) ( same basic engine)
to see the profiles stick the letters into mintylamb http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/
but air flow from a 4 pot TR4 is quite different to a 6pot
you may now be on the right idea's
regards Pete
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wher ever you fit it the after market girling type servo thats available in volume is a universal kit , none sold are 'dedicated'
there are a variety of ratios 1.9 :1 is normal and do some serious searches as costs vary vastly
eg http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RH5272
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/cart.aspx
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All club sold /remanufactured engines are done by ivor searle
I have been there for a factory tour and its exceptionally clean controlled well inspected, and all specifications are adhered to and all work is logged as the build progresses
hard to upstage
pete
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its on my profile ,, some way off south in sunny Luton
bit of a long run for a pint
Pete
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where abouts are you ???
Pete
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may have to hacksaw through the plastic and cut the heads off ,, shopuld leave enogh to get the moles on the remaining stud
they normally go into a weld nut
Pete
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a well set up std GT6 wont have any trouble as a road car keeping up with moderns
get the basics set to factory spec and see what happens
just adding carburation will not have the effect you think probably be worse
air flow/velocity and carb size are all matched , unless you spend a fortune upping the air flow , std Cd150 will take some beating
if yours has the temperature compensators on the side there some simple rules to get these set, if they are leaking air you never get the idle mix correct
let me know
her's a good site with nice pictures , http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm
never mind the models the basics are all the same
Pete
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dont the pair have slots to aid adjustment ?
if the tailgate is sitting proud with or without them it probably has the wrong seal section fitted
Pete
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where are you based ??
Pete
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here's an alternative idea, check this site out
convert your existing carb body to accept a pair of single point injectors
http://www.pattonmachine.com/index.htm
Pete
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never had any issues with them over the years but who knows , think I would whip one off and look through the barrel
double check the choke cam is not interfering
pete
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that would be a std 3 rail box ,
the type number is stamped on the top case face alongside the top cover
Pete
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Hi darren, yes check the throttle plate is the right way round , and its centred in the spindle slot
may need to slacken the two screws and get it to close , ie no daylight visible around the edges then re nip the screws
the plates have a chamfered edge to make a ight fit to the bore if they happen to be wrong way round
you have a big gapnand a fast uncontrolled idle when the stops fully out.
ans a thought ..........make sure there's a small gap to the choke fast idle cam tappet screw
Pete
Cylinder head swap.
in Engine
Posted
Just make sure you use the deep heavy duty nuts and hard washers or the torque clamp will soon drop off from the 46lbft any std nut will strip, most soft washers deform
canleys sell them
or not original use upside down wheel nuts
pete