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Pete Lewis

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis

  1. Just make sure you use the deep heavy duty nuts and hard washers or the torque clamp will soon drop off from the 46lbft any std nut will strip, most soft washers deform

    canleys sell them

     

    or not original use upside down wheel nuts

     

    pete

  2. Aiden

    a large screwdriver and place it on the pump  stick  your ear on the handle and it will make a stethoscope

     

    move around the engine till you locate the area the most sound is emmitting

     DO NOT  get it in the FAN or it takes A & E about 4 hours to remove it .

     

    one easy test is put some talc powder or a lightly run the dip stick on the belt sides .  some make a lot of clatter due to the belt kevlar and the Vee contact

     

    have a listen to the alternator , pullies can split and make a clatter

     

    Pete

  3. the tag with 3432  is correct  these are CDSE150    

     

    the front one has the starting valve, this has a bridge  n the valve connected to a outlet which is tubed to the rear unit its normal

     

     make sure the cable pulls the choke fully open, 

     

    its also worth taking the stating valve off the carb and make sure all the metering hole in the discs inside are clear an not full of corrosion

     

    if the discs are scored you can re face them with a oiled wet and dry fine paper, on a glass or flat sheet and sand away the scoring

     

    dont drill the metering holes , use some soft wire or similar to clear the small holes.

     

    both carbs should open up some throttle when the choke is used the cam bolt is adjustable 

     

    make sure no gaskets or filters are obstructing the front face ports an use engine oil in the dampers

     

    as thes are cdse they will have the temperature compensator on the side 

     

    take it off there are 2    0 rings one at the outer case and one at the base of the small boss 

    these fail and air leaks in

     

    also check the small plastic plunger is closed, this is loaded by a small bimetal strip the plunger has special settings but ignore all that and make sure the little sod is actually closed up to normal running temperature  the idea is on over heating the plunger opens and allows air to bleed and bypass the throttle plates, ups the idle and weaken the idle mixture

     

    if this is open when it needs to be closed you never set the idle mixture correctly

     

    it is much more important that the  plunger is closed  when setting the mixture ,     if it never opens so what.

    to close it tighten the small nut inside 

     

    Pete

     

    Pete

  4. had the lost gearknob on a Photo shoot at Brooklands ,  the guy in charge of the publication was ..HUGE  

        a VX4/90 got lost so he jumps in my Vit6 and asks for a lift....   everything but the drivers window winder disappeared

            dont know what was used to get the gears but we took off and he made comments about gee this things  Bl..dy quick....I nearly said try it unladen

                        pete

  5. there's also tapping in the rear o/s top of the head which sometimes get used ( generally for heaters /etc )  but same thread 

     

    sky hook , upside down vari focals, and knee pads are all part of the classic kit.....and sticky plasters 

     

    Pete

  6. Try getting a lass in a wedding dress in the car, gave away a lass and she wanted a Porsche

    well Im shoe horned in the back, shes got feet on dash board with with a drive through Salisbury

    Can Can fashion on show .... not for the faint hearted

     

    so make sure you all fit inside respectably. ?...!!!!

     

    Pete

  7. The only triumph spec that ran HS6 and 2000 6pot was the 2000TC which comes back to BCY ?

    It then you need to compensate for the stacks and socks

     

    Going standard is easy , all tried and tetsted

    if you fancy a run to sunny luton I can set up most but wont be reprofiling needles unlees theres no altrrnative

     

    I will have alook on minty later and try to give some clues

     

    where, s me slippers!!!

     

    Pete

  8. i have anumber on SU spec manuals , they all say different spec , 

     

    from an old one BDM is TR4

     

    for a 2000 it shows    hs4  AS  ABL or   hs6  AS  BCY  ( but thats for the big saloon )  ( same basic engine)

     

    to see the profiles stick the letters into   mintylamb      http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

     

     

    but air flow from a 4 pot TR4 is quite different to a 6pot 

     

    you may now be on the right idea's 

     

    regards  Pete

  9. wher ever you fit it the after market girling type servo thats  available in volume is a universal kit , none sold are 'dedicated'

    there are a variety of ratios   1.9 :1 is normal  and do some serious searches as costs vary vastly 

     

    eg  http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RH5272

     

    http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/cart.aspx

     

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEK028-BRAND-NEW-MINI-BRAKE-SERVO-FITTING-KIT-TT3949Z-/381208976673?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58c1d35d21

  10. All club sold /remanufactured engines are done by ivor searle

    I have been there for a factory tour and its exceptionally clean controlled well inspected, and all specifications are adhered to and all work is logged as the build progresses

     

    hard to upstage

     

    pete

  11. a well set up std GT6 wont have any trouble as a road car keeping up with moderns 

     

    get the basics set to factory spec and see what happens 

     

         just adding carburation will not have the effect you think  probably be worse

     

          air flow/velocity and carb size are all matched , unless you spend a fortune upping the air flow , std Cd150 will take some beating

           if yours has the temperature compensators on the side there some simple rules to get these set, if they are  leaking air you never get the idle mix correct

     

            let me know 

     

    her's  a good site with nice pictures  ,    http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm  

     

     

    never mind the models the basics are all the same

     

    Pete

  12. Hi darren,  yes   check the throttle plate is the right way round , and its centred in the spindle slot

     

    may need to slacken the two screws and get it to close , ie no daylight visible around the edges then re nip the screws

     

    the plates have a chamfered edge to make a ight fit to the bore if they happen to be wrong way round 

    you have a big gapnand a fast uncontrolled idle when the stops fully out.

     

    ans a thought ..........make sure there's a small gap to the choke fast idle cam tappet screw

     

    Pete

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