Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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just be aware that getting stems that need some lubrication too dry will end up with a bigger problem of seizing, there has to be some clearance
just not oval or excessive, youve made the right move dumping the 'spawn'
also check the breathing
pete
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there is a opening in the top casting body which is open to the round hole in the front face ,
ring any time im awake ha !
Pete
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fitted a pheonix 6 3 1 to the 1600 ( as mk1) and the 3-1 collector leaked like a sieve, as this is intended as a slip joint, as there's alot of pipe expansion movement
the only solution was to cut a slot, weld some tags with a bolt and turn it into a clamp or it blew all the time, no sealer would withstand the movement
club shop had some mk1 tubular from Bell ..lifetime warranty on these
Pete
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thats good.
while your are inside have a look at the throwout bearing it should be 19mm thick, if its 15mm as many repro are then the lever you are about to fit
is let say off balance in its leverage and is angled a bit 'late' you can remove the pivot post and add a washer under the spherical pivot to 'make it taller' this helps correct the over centre action of the lever .if needed
just a thought pete
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they are heat treated, to take the wear of the spherical post , had the same its not uncommon
repair or second hand is the only option.
Pete
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Hi
where are you located ???
I would like to see this, but dont own a private jet ha !
Pete
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you should have a short arm pump 208493,, if this is what you have and its a long arm then supply is incorrect to part number.
the longer arm tkc3417 was used on late 1500 with the spacer ukc8523 late spit IV and early dolly/spit 1500 used rkc1624 without spacer
some evolved changes were push on pipe fittings well something like that !!
yes if using the spacer you need longer studs , a setscrew can be used but needs the threads sealing to prevent sump oil leakage and a stud gives better location.
pete
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drop dave rummens a line he's your club register secretary for vittesse
hes in the courier
Pete
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as you have both engines carefully measure the head depth if they are the same , thats a good start
think all 1500 had same valves , inlets on 1300 after engine FC25000 had larger inlets than the 1500 ,
Pete
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Like your idea of a 4A goes well and prettier styling,
Pete
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have used bullet proof ford and landy studs over the years ..straight in , may need a file to clear the front hub shoulder.
then there's stick to triumph and go for the T2000 or TR 7/16" again straight fit .
do anything to get away from the piddling 3/8" studs and youre safe for the future
Pete
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the whole range can be done 'in car' the only variable is on some you need to angle, fiddle , raise engine , shift rack etc to get the pan to clear the oil pump
and strainer,
as said important to measure the float and compare with whats fitted to get the right thickness ,
make sure you mark the bearing cap so you keep it the same way round .
Pete
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my recently acquired 74 Mk2 T2000 has blasted SU on it
and whilst I have an inherant hate for the thing they perform resonably
what is not clear is while they look the same but if you retain the std air box the filters are very different in porting,and hole centres and they are pretty much unobtainable you cant fit a stromberg air box to su without a lot of modifications so you are now down the route of an alternative at high cost and much needle twidling
you could fit spitfire ones but far too small area to last long.
Pete ....Strombergs love em
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just to add did you check the coil was being fed when cranking and when just 'on'
was there any hint it wanted to fire but couldnt ?
oil in dashpots is sae 20 engine oil but 20/50 engine oil is what you get these days
no thin cats pee, its a damper and thin oil wont give you the richness needed when accelerating.
you still could have a choke problem are they what i call thames barrier with a rotated ramp to raise piston and block air flow or
starting valve on the front carb. the fuel bleed ports can get corroded up with storage and you dont get the fuel ratio to start a cold engine
wet plugs may just be excessive cranking and not firing.
good luck with the send away , hope they finger the problem
Pete
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this doesnt make sense ,there is a large hole in the outer filter face which is open to the vent in the top chamber casting.
if you have grooved the seal washer then it will surely draw un metered fuel from around the jet holder cant be right ,
Pete
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its quite costly to renew all the seat foam and diaphragms, webbing etc , but all quite achievable , use cable ties not hog rings when refitting
note where all the tucks and clips are positioned before your strip it out.
many use MGF MX5 Jaguar and others most will fit with some tinkering, MGF dont tilt but can be made to quite easily
some use diy plates to mount runner to the floor some make the replacement seat fit the old triumph runners .. its an open book, needs some homework first.
saloons are easier than convertibles as the hood partition intrudes into the backrest width space and can restrict how and what you fit as an alternative
if i can find a way to load a photo I have some of mgf fitted to my vitesse
cant be bothered to faf around with these upload so please click on my avatar profile and theres some MGF vitesse photo's in my gallery
Pete
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the old forum had a section of tools tips and odds and sods
this contained al sorts of useful guff so lets populate a new one in here
First tip
to get a crystal clear windscreen add a squirt of dishwasher rinse aid to your screenwash reservoir .
Pete
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when in truck manufacturing some military specs used a silicon type use to avoid moisture content whilst in long periods of storeage
we did water content tests on trucks in storage and it was common for the reservoir to be upto 40% moisture in 6 months just from the breathing in the cap due to temperature changes
if brakes fade ( have no grip) its due due to overheated friction material, thin worn down , or lubricated .
if the pedal goes spongy or lost completely then its down to water in the brake cylinders
if the pedal id lower when running but pumps up when stationary its excess bearing end float.
pete
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most electronic units operate in a range from 6 to 18volts from experience thye dont like a ballasted feed as when the battery state is poor you can have this drop below the operational window and thay cause lots of misfiring , its always best to
keep the ballast and 1.5 ohm coil but add a 12v ign feed to the unit
or
dump the ballast, and its 1.5ohm coil and you can remove the white /yellow starter solenoid feed then fit a new 3 ohm 12v coil by making a new feed from the whites on the ign switch or suitably bypassed ballast and all is then twit proof.
im sure many rotor failures were due to by passing ballasted 1.5 ohm coils which will double the current used and also raise the HT to a voltage in excess of what these systems will cope with ,
Pete
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Robin come to the pub 27th oct and talk to Me
or give me a call
Pete
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some ramblings
your club shop sell reliable's at fair prices, and offer a recondition service for points or electronics distributors
all these units what ever make are purely a replacing mechanical switching with electronic switching its good for greater accuracy up the speed range and can complement worn dizzy cam spindle float , they are not anything more than that, nothing magical but less maintenance
no burning contact faces, no gap setting. no mechanical inefficiencies.
some use the cheap options from eb-y and have mixed results
personally ive used aldon and lumention from the club shop and they have been robust and bullet proof for years.
one thing was reported the low end spec units dont always have the trigger magnets spaced correctly and each cyl ends up with different timing
cant confirm where this emanated from,
pete
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to me that style of shim is to reduce the friction and shuffle between pad and piston contact it would fit either way round, as it has no
cut out to create a sort of 'lead in' edge to the piston
if you ring the shop Garth may have the answers,
if you look at the piston contact face this may have a r machined relief area to replicate a cut away shim if so the relieve should be facing the oncoming
disc rotation. so there is a slight loss of pressure on the leading face of the pads , these pistons can rotate in use aand the cut out ends up anywhere
and good old triumph workshop manual shows diddly squat on the parts in question
Pete
Herald 13/60 spluttering
in Electrical System
Posted
Make sure no gasket or air flilter is covering any of the ports in the carb outer face,
check the dizzy cam spindle for wear , give it a good press sideways this means the point gap is changing as the cam spindle rotates.
check the 12volt lead coil to dizzy is on the negative terminal
check the small cotton coverd lead in the dizzy which earths the base plate is sound.
dont use any spark plugs with an R in the suffix
many new condensers are empty and new makes things worse
Pete