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Paul H

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Posts posted by Paul H

  1. Hi Pete, thanks for input - seller has agreed to fit new jet . For my info you 

     

    One gets the feeling someone has attacked this in a previous life making the distortion .

    overall 0.012"is not overly important the needle will adjust to compensate the height and being biased should accomadate the misalignment enough to achieve basic mixture setting .

    It cant get bent by use , so expect fumble fingers have messed it up a little

    think a new jet is the best solution,

    maybe make a drift , drilled to take the jet and supports it when you gently press it home

    pete

    Hi Pete - The company I bought the refurb CDSE's from has agreed to fit a new jet - For my info you said 

     

    "overall 0.012"is not overly important the needle will adjust to compensate the height and being biased should accommodate the misalignment enough to achieve basic mixture setting ."

     

    How does the needle compensate for the 12 thou , or does the needle have to be dropped by 12 thou to compensate 

     

    Best regards and thanks for your advice 

  2. Just did an oil change on my Vitesse Mk2 and used the cardboard fix and it worked fine - Also replaced the sump plug with one from Canleys - the plug has a 15/16th AF Nut and complete with magnet - Next oil change will be easier 

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  3. Hi finally getting round to set up my refurbished CDSE150's on my Vitesse MK2 

     

    The settings I was given was Float height 18mm

    Fixed Jet height  100 thou 

     

    Ive set the float height - no issues .

     

    The front carb fixed jet  height is 100 thou so set correctly 

     

    The rear  carb fixed jet height is currently 112 thou. On examination the end is slightly flattened on one side and its bent, albeit minor , see pics . I was going to push the fixed jet in further using a vice to achieve 100 thou but with the slight bend pretty sure all i will do is make matters worse.

     

    This is the first time Ive done this and asking if my conclusion that the carb should go back for a new fixed jet and set to 100 thou ?

     

    I am assuming that the 12 thou difference between the front & rear carbs is significant and not practical to continue setting up .

     

    Any input welcomed 

     

    Paul 

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  4. Progress.. Started to dismantle smiths heater with a view to check condition of heater matrix . I've removed the rubber pipes, removed the spring clips , and from inside the car undone the 2 retaining nuts and removed the air distribution box . Removed the blower motor. Now trying to lift out the heater assembly , including the front plate . It won't budge and as it there are more bolts to undo . Anything I've missed ?????

    managed to take out front cover then the heater box , so all done . Heater matrix full of crud and had 1969 stamped on it so guess I'll change for a new one
  5. Progress.. Started to dismantle smiths heater with a view to check condition of heater matrix . I've removed the rubber pipes, removed the spring clips , and from inside the car undone the 2 retaining nuts and removed the air distribution box . Removed the blower motor. Now trying to lift out the heater assembly , including the front plate . It won't budge and as it there are more bolts to undo . Anything I've missed ?????

  6. Vitesse was doing well , refurb CDSE carbs speced for vitesse mk2 , no issues , plenty of power through the range , started first time . Then I ran out of fuel , no issues initially then out on a run it's as if somebody's flicked a switch and now no power at all and lumpy tickover, won't go up a hill , have to drop down gears and crawl at 10mph which was embarrassing !!!!

     

    Back to basics and checked compression with a range of 165 to 175 , most of the cylinders were 170 , is this ok . Compression test was with out plugs and throttle open and started for 10 secs. Engine had been run for 10 mins prior

     

    Then checked the timing , there are 2 white marks either side of tdc and the strobe is showing slightly to the left of the left hand mark . Hope this makes sense . Is this the cause of the lack of power . Where should the strobe hit ?

     

    If this isn't the cause will start checking the carbs for contamination, fuel is getting through as just added a disposable filter after the pump and fuel is clearly visible, I will also be adding one before the pump. Are there any obvious pointers to check on the carbs for contamination ?

     

    The disy cap has a small chunk missing on the rim, will be changing as water could get in, could this be the cause, would I need a new rotor as well, the previous owner had converted to electronic , not sure which make

    Any assistance welcome

    Regards

    Paul

  7. Hello Paul.

     

    CDSE carbs are for emission controlled vehicles and were significant in the export market to the USA.

     

    In the main, GT6's of that emission era (I think) and I'm sure I will be corrected were subject to these controls and as such had these carbs fitted. Additionally and probably more importantly the needle and jet may / probably are different from what your Mk2 should have. You should a pair of 6AC.

     

    With regard to stripping down and cleaning out, the Stromberg's are similar for this purpose so any decent WSM / Haynes will suffice - it goes in to detail so ideal for your task. 

     

    With regard to in-line fuel filters, you have 2x options:

     

    1. plastic disposable ones which are absolutely fine - make sure they are big otherwise flow will be restricted OR

     

    2.  the glass washable filter type often seen on Ebay.

     

    I use the plastic disposable versions on both my cars and are A1.

     

    With regard to the clear plastic fuel hose, get rid of it as it's not correct for the fuel line integrity. If you are sourcing new fuel pipe I would advise getting pipe that is coded R9; which is the best hose you can get to combat any ethanol problems and pipe degrading. 

     

    If you are struggling to get information on carb strip down (wait for the onslaught of replies via the Forum !!) I'm happy to scan & send some documents that will assist.

     

    Finally, it may well be worth you locating a correct set of 150 CD carbs for your car and if necessary have them overhauled - the difference will be very noticeable.

     

    Best wishes & good luck.

     

    Richard.

    Hi Richard , when I purchased the vitesse in Jan this year the carbs were off a 2.5 saloon . They were shot and as the wrong carbs no good for donor . All I could get at the time for an outright purchase at a reasonable price was the CDSE , they were refurb and specked up by Turner carbs for the vitesse MK 2 . The carbs work really well and the engine fires first time with the engine very responsive with no flat spots . I don't know the fuel economy yet though feel they might be running a tad rich . Re the filters do they fit before the pump and do they have to be vertical . Please feel free to comment on the suitability of the CDSE in your opinion

    Best regards

  8. Hi , Vittesse suddenly became lumpy with reduced power especially on hills - I thought it was an air leak in the advance retard pipe as found a split in the right angle bend - Made a temp fix with amalgam tape and whilst improved the lumpyness is still there . Normally I can see fuel in the joining pipe between  the 2 carbs - this now appears to empty so need to clean the carbs to remove the crud  - Is there an online guide to assist as this is new to me - Currently there is no inline filter ( apart from the gauze in the pump) any recommendations as to type & where to locate would be appreciated  

     

    Best regards 

     

    Paul 

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  9. Many Many thanks to all for advice so far - Vertical Links done , new trunnions, new brake calipers, new radiator , hoses ( just waiting on Canleys for the stainless pipe under the manifold ) 

    and WBL 281 H - 1969 Vitesse Saloon passed it MOT  last week - with no advisories .

     

    Still plenty of jobs to be done to add the reliability back so there will be plenty more questions 

     

    Regards 

    Paul 

  10. I echo all that

    The actual spec is 0.002 to 0.008" end float ,, not easy to check the linear float

    But at 0.008 you get a lot , over 3mm rock at the rim

    there are two pin holes in the stub so easy to get fine adjustment

    if the felt seals are new recheck again very soon after fitting

    too much can give you pad push back too little seizes the outer bearing onto the stub.

    one flat is fine provided the nut was a light hand nip and not wraunched up tight

    I did purchase new felt seals but quality was poor and couldn't get them to fit so reused old ones . Thanks for feedback - appreciated
  11. Just fitted new vertical links , trunnions and reassembling the wheel bearings . A previous post on here ( can't find it ) said nip up the castellated nut then go back one or 2 sections and add split pin . The bit I can't find is should there be play once the wheel is added back . I've got a small amount of play , not sure if I need to tighten the castellated nut one more section . Thanks in advance .

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