Colin Lindsay
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Posts posted by Colin Lindsay
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I vote for upgrade! I had a windscreen go early on in my ownership, it cracked from top to bottom, scary, not like a modern screen. If I bought an old one the screen would be the first thing to come under scrutiny. Inertial reel seat belts, what's not to like? Alternator, electronic ignition, better shockers, polybushes, YES! What would Triumph be doing if they were still making them?
They wouldn’t be making a 1960s car in 2015, so it’s a moot point. I don’t mind upgraded lights, alternator, polybushes or electronic ignition - and yes even modern windscreen glass - but I do bite my lip when faced with a type 9 gearbox / Subaru diff / Mazda engine / Rover seated offering that the owner claims is better than original. Sometimes it would be more original to put a Triumph bonnet on a modern and call it a Triumph…
It’s the owner’s prerogative, but similarly if I don’t want to, I don’t like being called dangerous, unreliable and Luddite.. and that’s just ME…. so it’s up to personal choice.
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Take care - that’s the only real advice!
However: covering the hole with masking tape can help alleviate the damage caused by the gun moving abruptly when the trigger is pulled but have you ever used a short length of brake pipe or other metal pipe over the rivet shaft? This holds the rivet away from the gun nozzle, and if there’s a snap, the gun is half an inch or so away from the paintwork. Dipping the rivets in grease or Waxoyl also helps rustproof them when fitted.
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It’s a learning curve.. but all the more satisfying when you work it out.
We’ve all been there! (battery connected back to front, dizzy on 180 degrees out… it happens!)
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I didn’t find any great improvement with the 123 and so sold my unit a few years ago. Like my digital camera there were just too many features on it that I’d never use. I just like the fit-and-forget style of the under-cap systems and although my Aldon system was this type it failed after about two years. The red SimonBBC unit has been going great for quite a bit longer and I’ve bought since some for my Heralds.
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I used the SimonBBC versions from eBay : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-25D-25D4-POWERSPARK-electronic-ignition-kit-/110581394489?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19bf2a2c39
Aldon gave up on me while Optronic was too much bother.
That link is just to a sample of what he sells; check his other items to confirm the one you require. I’ve found them excellent quality over the years.
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The last GT6 outrigger I bought has a strap on the top flange which is meant to be folded down the inside of the chassis main rail and welded where accessible. I haven’t seen any Herald / Vitesse ones like this but suspect they’re the same these days.
Incidentally that link to the Service bulletin page doesn’t work?
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Yes cat litter is excellent for oil, really unbelievable for soaking up huge quantities off clean concrete… don’t ask how I know but the cat didn’t go for a week afterwards until stocks were replenished. The problem with this stuff - power steering fluid - is that it dripped heavily for about two weeks until a replacement pump arrived and was fitted, so there’s discoloured patch about two feet by two feet where the bonnet of the Discovery usually sits. No cleaner known to man - or me - has so far done anything to it; I think it may come to digging out the patch of tarmac and refilling. The drive is overdue for a topcoat anyway; I’ve been recommended a product called Bitumen Coldfix which brushes on.
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its connected to the existing loom, utilising the Green/White wire from the front indicator for its power!,
It’s on.. it’s off.. it’s on… it’s off…..
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Any tips on removing this horrible substance from a tarmac driveway? It covers an area of about four square feet following a leak on the Power Steering pump on my Discovery and nothing that normally removes engine oil will touch it. Three months or so on from the pump replacement and it’s still sitting there, discoloured brown and apparently unremoveable except by digging out the affected area of tar...
Anything I should try?
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It may be indeed; the last set of ‘new’ rear overriders I bought were badly crazed within a few years of purchase, and the amazing thing is that this was without them ever being near a road.
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Thanks Colin, so a remanufactured is on the cards then? Any further details?
Still waiting final developments through the Club Shop; I was intending to sell this one at Stafford a couple of years ago but it got itself donated as a template for trial remanufacture… hopefully it will be feasible to remake them.
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If anyone is interested, I have a brand new never-fitted aftermarket 6-cylinder rev counter that fits anywhere the driver wants it to go; rectangular design and looks quite nice.
Only downside is that it’s for positive earth and so may not be suitable for many of our Triumphs.
Any use to anyone?
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Just find one with reclining seats and develop that Triumph slouch…. I’m 6’ 4” and have no problem in a Mk1.
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Those look good and yes the lack of rust is a real bonus.
Can they supply Herald rear overriders? Must check….
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Find one of the early pumps with the nut on the front pulley and rebuild it. Bearings and seals are all readily available.
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Here’s a photo of my old one, blasted and primed but now somewhere in the ether of being used as a template to have new ones remanufactured. Hopefully lighter too, they weigh a ton.
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Ok so it’s NOT just me… as usual I was blaming my own PC….
Thanks guys
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I've just fitted stainless steel too and I agree with PJM Stag; they look very good.
They cost about half the estimated price of re-chroming, they arrived quickly and they are a very good fit.
How do they compare with good chrome as regards shine? I’ve never seen any of these and it’s hard to tell from a photo on the seller’s webpage; is there a good depth of shine or just reflective steel?
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I can’t access the James Paddock website at jamespaddock.co.uk, all I get is a meaningless jumble of code and error messages. All other websites are fine. Anyone else experiencing this?
Colin
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Early Herald coupes were sold with twin carbs, and they were an optional extra on other Heralds. They used twin SUs although the Alexander conversion used twin 1.25 Strombergs. Easiest route (as the Herald versions are scarce these days) is to find a manifold from a Spitfire and use that setup, the early Spitfire engine was the same 1147cc size as the Herald so should be a straight fit. You’ll need to modify brackets and cables etc. Simply adding twin carbs won’t do much to the performance, you ideally need a hotter camshaft and possibly minor head reworking to get the best performance boost.
The photo is of the Alexander system I briefly used on my otherwise unmodified 1200 before deciding it ran better on a single Solex and went back to that.
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Same problem as Herald doors - the profile of the currently available rubber seal is quite often wrong, it’s too thick and prevents the hatch from sitting flush. Try Bill at Rarebits for the flap-type seal that he sells for doors, it’s not a tubular-type construction so seals without having to be compressed too much.
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I THINK - think - there is a facility for correcting the details on the V5 on change of ownership; it’s been a while since I did this so others can correct as necessary but I think once you purchase the car and go to have it registered in your name you’ll be asked if all the details on the form are correct - by ticking the box ‘NO' and supplying the correct engine number the new form should arrive back with you with the correct engine number now amended.
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A small 12v pump fitted inline will work, there are plenty of areas to attach one under the bonnet. You don’t even have to use the original switch position, a small hidden switch down below the dash works very well; you can even place one in a handier position than the original.
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It is possible to describe them in a different way!
For example is it a "4-branch performance exhaust manifold" or a "stainless steel tubular manifold"??
Avoid any term that points to racing or fast usage. A stainless manifold is for longevity, not an engine upgrade; better brakes are for safety, not for stopping more quickly from higher speed. Any hint of driving faster than a sedate classic speed and they’ll load your premium.
Loss of power when engine hot
in Engine
Posted
Fuel starvation? It may not be at the engine end! If so, suspect something blocking the fuel lines, so remove, flush and replace, and maybe fit an inline filter; make sure all breathers are unblocked. Something is building up to breaking point as the car drives, but then after a period of sitting idle - draining back? - it works again. Try that angle and see if things improve.