Colin Lindsay
-
Posts
16,675 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
528
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Colin Lindsay
-
-
It may be indeed; the last set of ‘new’ rear overriders I bought were badly crazed within a few years of purchase, and the amazing thing is that this was without them ever being near a road.
-
Thanks Colin, so a remanufactured is on the cards then? Any further details?
Still waiting final developments through the Club Shop; I was intending to sell this one at Stafford a couple of years ago but it got itself donated as a template for trial remanufacture… hopefully it will be feasible to remake them.
-
If anyone is interested, I have a brand new never-fitted aftermarket 6-cylinder rev counter that fits anywhere the driver wants it to go; rectangular design and looks quite nice.
Only downside is that it’s for positive earth and so may not be suitable for many of our Triumphs.
Any use to anyone?
-
Just find one with reclining seats and develop that Triumph slouch…. I’m 6’ 4” and have no problem in a Mk1.
-
Those look good and yes the lack of rust is a real bonus.
Can they supply Herald rear overriders? Must check….
-
Find one of the early pumps with the nut on the front pulley and rebuild it. Bearings and seals are all readily available.
-
Here’s a photo of my old one, blasted and primed but now somewhere in the ether of being used as a template to have new ones remanufactured. Hopefully lighter too, they weigh a ton.
-
Ok so it’s NOT just me… as usual I was blaming my own PC….
Thanks guys
-
I've just fitted stainless steel too and I agree with PJM Stag; they look very good.
They cost about half the estimated price of re-chroming, they arrived quickly and they are a very good fit.
How do they compare with good chrome as regards shine? I’ve never seen any of these and it’s hard to tell from a photo on the seller’s webpage; is there a good depth of shine or just reflective steel?
-
I can’t access the James Paddock website at jamespaddock.co.uk, all I get is a meaningless jumble of code and error messages. All other websites are fine. Anyone else experiencing this?
Colin
-
Early Herald coupes were sold with twin carbs, and they were an optional extra on other Heralds. They used twin SUs although the Alexander conversion used twin 1.25 Strombergs. Easiest route (as the Herald versions are scarce these days) is to find a manifold from a Spitfire and use that setup, the early Spitfire engine was the same 1147cc size as the Herald so should be a straight fit. You’ll need to modify brackets and cables etc. Simply adding twin carbs won’t do much to the performance, you ideally need a hotter camshaft and possibly minor head reworking to get the best performance boost.
The photo is of the Alexander system I briefly used on my otherwise unmodified 1200 before deciding it ran better on a single Solex and went back to that.
-
Same problem as Herald doors - the profile of the currently available rubber seal is quite often wrong, it’s too thick and prevents the hatch from sitting flush. Try Bill at Rarebits for the flap-type seal that he sells for doors, it’s not a tubular-type construction so seals without having to be compressed too much.
-
I THINK - think - there is a facility for correcting the details on the V5 on change of ownership; it’s been a while since I did this so others can correct as necessary but I think once you purchase the car and go to have it registered in your name you’ll be asked if all the details on the form are correct - by ticking the box ‘NO' and supplying the correct engine number the new form should arrive back with you with the correct engine number now amended.
-
A small 12v pump fitted inline will work, there are plenty of areas to attach one under the bonnet. You don’t even have to use the original switch position, a small hidden switch down below the dash works very well; you can even place one in a handier position than the original.
-
It is possible to describe them in a different way!
For example is it a "4-branch performance exhaust manifold" or a "stainless steel tubular manifold"??
Avoid any term that points to racing or fast usage. A stainless manifold is for longevity, not an engine upgrade; better brakes are for safety, not for stopping more quickly from higher speed. Any hint of driving faster than a sedate classic speed and they’ll load your premium.
-
You have to tighten the cover screws gradually, testing for free dropping all the time. Tighten one gradually, test the drop, tighten another, keep checking for free movement and adjust as necessary until the cover is fully tightened and the piston still drops freely. You probably already know this but I’ve seen owners tighten the cover down fully with no adjustment then try to move the piston afterwards, with predictable results.
-
Just the usual lacklustre performance.
It shouldn’t be, as Clive says. Maybe in relation to a modern, servo-assisted car they seem poor, but in their day the brakes were as good as they needed to be. You just have to get used to putting more pressure on the pedal, and much earlier.
-
I just went to my name on the top right, clicked “My Profile’ and in the menu to the left of the new page, there’s an option for gallery. I created an album and uploaded a photo as a test and it seemed to go ok.
-
Those look like Spitfire or GT6 wheels; perfectly good if you’re not worried about originality… the original Vitesse wheels for the late MK2 were steel wheels 4.5J wide with Rostyle trims. Similar to the GT6 Mk2 but slight differences?
-
I think you’re right, it was white / pink or white / red for the radio connection; earth was just strung from the unit to any metal point. Other cars used the spare terminal on the ignition switch; not sure if it carried over into the later ones?
Speakers were often just hung under the dashboard within inches of the head unit so no real cabling required.
You’ll probably have to route your own, under carpets and well away from any sharp edges where they may get damaged, and as Clive says use a good in-line fuse on the power cable.
-
Choose the ‘more reply options’ button at the bottom right and at the bottom of that text box you’ll see an option to ‘Attach files’. Select your pic and attach.
I don’t use Photobucket for this forum but I think it’s the square box to the bottom left of the smiley icon, the little green tree icon above the text box, that allows you to enter code for a linked photo from a storage site.
-
Make sure it’s nothing as simple as your fuel pump clicking as it pumps…
-
I haven’t seen these for sale anywhere; I’d make contact with a dismantler / restorer such as Chic Doig who will either know of a source or else be able to cut one from an unsalvageable donor car.
-
Can you actually fill the hose with water through the rad cap with the engine cold, i.e. does that hose fill up when the system is topped up? If so, when it’s hot, does it expand out of the overflow? I’d reckon if the system is running well enough then it’s getting enough water to cool properly.
Watch your fingers on any rotating / sharp / hot objects and with the engine running squeeze the hose to expel any air. Just a handgrip is enough to get a lot of air out and let water through again. However it’s worth bearing in mind that the hose doesn’t have to be full of water, it just has to have enough to allow water to be pumped into the radiator, so will probably expand out of the system again once it gets hot. If you can see the water pumping with the rad cap removed, it’s working. One point to bear in mind is that when the system is hot and the water has expanded, the system loses it into the expansion bottle; when cold, it’s drawn back in again by vacuum. If your rad cap seal isn’t tight, it won’t return back in. This may be the reason your hose appears empty when cold, but when running at full heat is actually carrying water. Does it get hot when running, and you can feel the hot water running through it? I’d keep an eye on the level, but as long as the temperature is ok when driving, it may just be a case of losing it to expansion without the system refilling when cooling down. A new rad cap seal may help. (Is the cap the correct poundage?)
Driveway cleaning to remove old Powersteering fluid
in General
Posted
Any tips on removing this horrible substance from a tarmac driveway? It covers an area of about four square feet following a leak on the Power Steering pump on my Discovery and nothing that normally removes engine oil will touch it. Three months or so on from the pump replacement and it’s still sitting there, discoloured brown and apparently unremoveable except by digging out the affected area of tar...
Anything I should try?