AidanT

Thanks for the info Doug. I seem to remember that the arm is pretty tight on one I had previously. i've also just noticed that I had a slight rocking motion when I pushed down on the dizzy cap as I have just swapped both over for another set I had from the club. The rotor arm connector has to be bent quite high to get the 9mm reach so I'm pretty sure there's not a full 100% contact to the middle carbon contact on the cap Does anyone know where I could get some better quality OE parts? Added a drop of oil to the oil point as well Aidan

Hi again Well It passed its MOT! however.... The symptoms are back - no obvious burning in the new dizzy cap HOWEVER.. The rotor arm is easy to pull off, the old one was a much tighter fit, or the Delco Dizzy cap does not locate nicely, can someone confirm if this is standard problem? When I take off the cap and arm then put them back this problem goes away for a few miles then goes back Both parts are from the Club shop so if they are poor quality then Grrr, Any suggestions please? Links to NOS equipment for sale? Any solutions out there for poor fitting Delco Dizzy Caps? Off to France in two weeks so have to fix this Thx Aidan

Ha Well this time it's not related to what's just been done Both bulbs have had it!! Anyway all that's now left to do is put the parcel shelf back Aidan

Anyone any thoughts why the front side lights are not working? Tail and number plates are fine and they are wired from the fuse box on two red cables both of which are on one spade! Bit odd! Aidan

So fuse box now fitted snuggly Everything re-wired I have put all outputs to the fused side and used buzz bars for the permanent and ignition input side Here it is finished Now just one issue - no front side lights. Everything else is working perfectly so far. Something for tomorrow Aidan

So now cut out the bulkhead to fit New fuse box and hole for replacement grommet and harness. Grommet is now gluing back after being cut open to fit Aidan

Well I was able to measure some but not all. For the remainder I have used a bit of common sense and a few calculations based on what I do know. I do not accept any liability on the attached spread sheet but if it of use and if anyone thinks I'm wrong, I'm quite happy to update the document Aidan OK So it wont allow a spread sheet to be loaded so here's a CSV Paste - if you copy paste it to excel and delimit it by comma it should work - (Sorry going excel techy!) voltage,,,,,A = V / R,,A = W / V,,,, 13.8,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,OUTPUT,,,,,,, INPUT,,,,,,,Measured,,,, Fuse No:,From,Colour,,To,Colour,Calc Amps,Fuse A,V,W,R,Notes ,,,,,,,,,,, 3,Ign,White,a,Coil,Single White,4.6,10,13.8,,3,Calculated - Standard 3 Ohm Coil 3,,,b,Gauges,Single White,0.1725,10,13.8,,80,80 ohms max resistance for the Fuel sender but I have 3 others 3,,,c,oil Warning L,Single White,0.1594,5,13.8,2.2,,The small bulbs are 2.2W 3,,,d,Stop L / Heater Fan,Twin Green,3.0435,10,13.8,42,,2 X 21w bulbs plus 5 for heater Fan 3,,,e,Indicators,Single Green,6.0870,15,13.8,84,,4 X 21w bulbs 15 A to be safe ,,,,,,,,,,, 2,Light Master,,a,Side & Tail L,Twin Red,6.0870,10,13.8,84,,4 X 21w bulbs 15 A to be safe ,,,,,,,,,,, 1,Perm Live,,a,Horn Relay,Double Purple,,10,13.8,,,Haynes Manual for a GT6 1,,,b,Main / Dip,Single Purple,9.4203,15,13.8,130,,2 X 65W at main beam 1,,,c,Interior L,Single Purple,,5,13.8,,,Cannot be a hign wattage - only one bulb 1,,,d,Overdrive,L Brown,,10,13.8,,,Added in 2014 Hmm It was better on the preview! Happy to send the spread sheet if anyone wants a copy. Aidan Just thought - PDF! Fuses estimated Requirement.pdf

So the next step will be to measure the resistance of the circuits with all the car switches on. I will list them tomorrow as the calculated amperages for the fuse set up as no one has ever seemed to have listed them on the tinterweb Aidan

Hi Paul. It was not the cheapest of fuse boxes but I purchased it from vehicle wiring products. Strangely they sell them cheaper through eBay than their own web site EBay item no 262119144550 Aidan

Thanks both. I really don't understand the test results but hey everything seemed to work as and when it should so im not going to worry Anyway so Next steps The soon to be replaced Pictures of the wiring Labelled just in case! finally a look at the replacement -bigger in that i need to increase the size of the hole by 1 cm in length and 1 cm in height and make a separate hole for the loom but it gives me 10 fuses to play with Aidan

Hi Pete I mean that the fuse is made live through the ignition switch being turned on Aidan

New mini-project started today to replace and upgrade my fuse box. Why? well to start with the three glass fuses rated @ 35A each doesn't really do much and there is a certain "fizzing" noise coming from mine that is slightly concerning. Anyway I have taken out the passenger glove box, and pulled out the fuse box from the bulk head. As a test, I thought, before I do anything I will test the circuits to the positive battery connection as I believe that one fuse is for permanent live, one for ignition live and the final one for the light master switch live When I tested though all the fuses show 0 ohms (no resistance) when making a circuit to the positive battery lead (battery removed) Is this right? All the electrics have been working correctly as far as I am aware. Aidan

It comes on when I earth the wire from the switch so not the bulb Aidan

Hi Colin What I mean by this is the initial key turn, the first position before the second in which the starter engages At this point both the ignition and oil pressure lights usually come on Aidan

I#m sure that the OE rotor arms really do not have enough length in the sprung arm. When you bend the arm so its 9mm away from the top of the cap as its supposed to be I'm sure the central conector on the dizzy cap is not fully covered. Interesting to hear I'm not the only one! but fingers crossed its now running well (apart from everything else!) HaHa Aidan

Not my horns! I refurbished them both and now they are instant headache material when they go off ! Aidan

Thanks Pete - replacement switch time! Aidan

Hi all I think my oil pressure switch has gone again after only two years but want to double check before I buy a new one. So Light does not come on when ignition switch is turned, only the Ignition light when I Earth the ignition switch connection then the oil light does come on I just wanted to confirm that the switch works by being on with no pressure and off with pressure Thanks Aidan

Too loud? Now I am confused again on what to buy. I was intending to fit it behind the dash in the gt6 but if it's too loud for an open top then it a going to be far too loud for a gt6. Not sure I want to fit a light bulb or led. Alternatives anyone? What db buzzer would be appropriate? Aidan

Hi all I keep falling into this trap to. How did you wire the buzzer/light up? Aidan

Well when I did applied Maths it was r and not i. probably to avoid that confusion! As an accountant though I have never used it although I must say I have come across some imaginary accounting!!!!! Aidan

Remember it well! What's the square root of minus one again? Who cares! Aidan

I have today had some success i have got in contact with the daughter of the person who rebuilt the car in the 1980's. She kindly sent me some pictures some of which are black and white!! These have raised a really interesting question. The logbook at that time stated that the car colour was blue/silver. From the pictures it's obvious that the roof including back hatch were in the silver! Anyone know if this was an original paint colour option? Aidan

Thanks Pete that's one thing I can do Never thought of it! Aidan

Hi Clive. If I knew the expected rating on the circuits then yes. Unfortunately..... Aidan