AidanT

Hi Pete That's my plan and i will check the timing, but as I am purchasing from the club anyway I might as well get a replacement coil, its not exactly expensive! plus will save on postage. I will add plugs to the shopping list! The new cap and rotor have improved the symptoms but not solved them, To my mind that leaves plugs, coil and possibly the electronic ignition. If I have all three to hand and keep my "Claasic Car" fingers crossed, the problem will go Aidan

Just to mention, i have just had a reply from H&H, they are happy to send me a new ignition unit to test. I purchased it in August 14, so i think they deserve a very positive mention here! Aidan

Hi Richard, i was wondering about this so thank you for the recommendation I see the club shop have these (Not sure on the model) so I was going to get one from there. As said previously I think it would be useful to have a spare anyway. i might also do a re-mount to the bulk head while i am at it Aidan

Thanks Pete / Richard. I have some checking to do ???? Aidan

Hi Richard It's a 3ohm coil so non-ballast on the low voltage side. It maybe as well to get a new coil anyway. Always useful to have a spare around if it does not solve the conundrum! I will pull the plugs out and see what they have to say Cheers Aidan

Hi Richard. I will check these out. The leads are luminition blue, so really good quality and have been on since autumn 2014 Plugs are ngk The coil is the original 3ohm No idea on the make age etc but would that be the cause of the symptoms I have? It's not as if it's a problem only when the car is hot Aidan

Hi Pete i have now swapped it for one from the club shop, but still there is a slight stutter. The replacement dizzy cap is in good clean condition. I will check the timing next weekend anyway, I have not adjusted it since last year when I adjusted it to stop the pinking when I went down to Somerset. (Do you remember Pete? I asked for your advice then!) I just have not thought to check what i adjusted it to! OOPS) Is there a chance it could just be the electronic ignition failing? In which case I need to get back to H&H Aidan

BTW. It's a H&H electronic ignition system Aidan

Hi All, Want your opinion on what has caused and is the issue now with my ignition. on a trip out today the car became very hesitant to accelerate. It ticked over fine and runs at a steady speed OK but when power is needed the car hesitated badly. I got home and the dizzy and points were as per pictures. I have replaced with others, and although the majority of the hesitance has gone there is still some. Its especially obvious if you blip the accelerator when at a standstill. Should i look at timing or could there be an issue with the electronic ignition starting to fail,? what would cause this damage to the dizzy central contact? Just in case you cannot see from the picture the centre contact has burnt down to almost flat with the encircling ring Aidan

I replaced mine with a pair from paddocks, a mk1 gt6 You definitely have the wrong ones there . Feeding them in from the rear of the A post is a fiddle but eased if you have some pin nosed vice grips to hold and place them through the post. Aidan

You also need to be careful about the seal kit. Some are worse than useless Aidan

I am running on a new set of 175/13 Michelin Energy's as I have them on my modern (Different Profile) . I have been happy with them as a mid-range mid-priced but quality tyre I am running on 5" wheels though Aidan

Hi Just to check, you do have two wires from the electronic ignition wired to the coil one on the positive, one on the negative? Aidan

Final entry for this thread. After a kit purchase from Canleys I now have one key for all my door locks and ignition. The kit came with the whole door lock, barrels lever and outer in the spring clip format. With another purchase from eBay I purchased an aftermarket locking kit which is actually an excellent solution to locks turning in the door skin and easier to fit than the nut type. This kit is simple made up of a large washer two long grub screws and a horse shoe type washer that fits in the spring clip recess. It holds the lock in tightly The eBay item number is 381164279913 All done and working Aidan

If you have changed to electronic ignition from points the timing will definately be out. There's a good few videos on YouTube about it Aidan

Morning Richard From previous comments on this thread it does not seem to be a requirement for our cars so is this for your modern? Also just to check but "log book"? Is that not the v5 these days as I don't have any other registration document? (I may just be reading the above incorrectly) Aidan

Hi Not sure where your based in Lincolnshire it's a very .big county! Anyway the area meet is in the Lincoln area about half an hour from me. I met some of the members a couple of weeks ago and they seem a great bunch. Theresa not many that participate in this forum but there are a few from the county Welcome once again to the forum and I assume the club Aidan

Take the rotor arm with you when you leave the car. The KISS methods are always the best Just don't forget you have taken it out!! Aidan

Garth Can you let me know the details of the rechroming business in Lincolnshire. Hopefully it's local to me It will be useful for later this year when I will be looking to get my front bumper done Aidan

And replace it once its out with a magnetic sump drain plug. Two reasons easier to shift the next time and the added benefit of the collection of any suspended metallic items Aidan

Read your first sentence AAGHHH. got to the end PHEWW! Thanks Aidan

Hi Thanks, that may well be the route I will be going down. I have purchased a UNF / UNC tap and die set which i needed anyway. i was going to re tap at the same 1/4" size to see if that makes a difference, but if that does not help I will contact you for a a selection of helicoils. This is not the only place I have this problem - some of the set screws holding the catch plates are also in the same condition Thanks again as I didn't know the club has these P.S. Can you comment on the GT6 Hi Torque starter thread I started Garth? I purchased this from the shop. There is a comment on there regarding drain hole issues i couldn't see any but... Thx Aidan

Fixed. And thank you BTW why why why have they welded the top bolt in?, Now makes it a real bum to only be able to tighten from the rear. Virtually no space to turn a spanner Aidan

Ah HA Well I never realised !!!! Just checked and you are spot on. Well B***r me I never realised that Thanks so much Aidan

Hi all Just fitted a hi-torque starter purchased from the club, I can confirm its the right model. The problem is it engages perfectly but when the engine fires up it does not disengage! and spins around with the engine. I only ran it fir a few seconds as I don't want to damage the starter It did seem a little sloppy when I fitted it in that I could move it around to locate the bottom bolt but I don't think thats anything to do with it. Help appreciated thanks Aidan