DanMi
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Posts posted by DanMi
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2 hours ago, Roger K said:
Thanks Graham. Now, why didn't Triumph include that diagram in the GT6 manual??
They would never have included that diagram in a GT6 manual as it is the very late spitfire set up, post about 1978 so well after GT6 production had stopped
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mine is still relatively leak free after 3 years the head only gets to 100c. I had the same concerns so put a few blobs in the oven perfectly hard at 120c (don't tell the other half)
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I tried to make this out of 2 sockets with shoulders one in the top of the tube one in the bottom and then tighten together with a long nut and bolt.
it's for a Massey ferguson tractor but same idea
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I first used 2 sockets with a bolt through to tighten up then put the locktite in 4 places on each tube so both sides of top and bottom casings and yes It had just been a rebuilt engine and i thoroughly cleaned the area with brake cleaner and I took the head off to do it. I decided to do it belt and braces as I didn't want to have to take the head off a second time
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very late mk4 had a J type. Your wiring clearly isn't factory but should function so long as it goes to the 12v side of the ballast resistor. I would put it in 4th gear with ignition on and engage od you should hear the solenoid click.
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I also did as Pete suggested only used 2 sockets and a long bolt to tightened up to flare both ends
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loctite 290 I found most of my leaks where actually from the bottom and I meant brake cleaner not fluid
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I made mine much better (spit mk2) by using a green wicking loctite, thoroughly cleaned with brake fluid the let the loctite soak in both top and bottom. Still a tiny weep but much better. I will try and find the number
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I would disconnect the electrics at the relay as a test and then drive the car. That can't cause any problems but would completely rule out electrical issues and is really zero effort. To be honest if it's not electrical/oil/actuator settings level it will mean a recon unit. I can recommend Mike Papworth in Coventry but have also heard good things about odspares and overdrive-repairs
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honestly I normally carry the exact spares that I don't need only time I had a problem in the last few years was on the way back from Duxford in the rain, boot with loads of spares but wiper motor failed, didn't have one of those of course. I did manage to drive home though. Most classic insurance comes with breakdown anyway
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35 minutes ago, Bob Horner said:
Thanks chaps. One thing I should have said, which I observed today, is that this slipping occurs when the overdrive switch is off. It seems not to do it when engaged. That would seem to rule out issue of it dropping in and out due to electric and/ or solenoid adjustment issues?
Bobwhich type of switch do you have as it is a conversion, the ones on the gear knob can have wiring problems within the switch/gearstick that could cause the overdrive to engage when off, unlikely if you have the column lever of course
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I think it unlikely that the cam is damaged the cam can be felt through the pump hole. I would loosen it of and try to pump it with the lever and make sure that the petrol is not too far below the pump. It could as Johnny said be that the arm is not correctly on the cam either to the side or under, but don't discount a faulty new pump
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you are probably trying to achieve a better result than the factory ever did, but fair play for trying.
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I would consider replacing the trunnion bushes (at least check) whilst loosened and that bolt could well be seized.
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i bought a set of wheels thinking they were 4.5 as they have 175/65/13 tyres fitted and i didn't believe a competent fitter would put that size on a 3.5 rim. I was wrong (well depends on your definition of competent) . I won't use them, maybe as a spare in an emergency.
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44 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said:
Well damit. Had not realised how deep the well was. Guess they are 3.5 so max is same as fitted at 145x80.
Thanks again Dan. you made my day
Sorry about that. But better that you know before fitting inappropriate tyres
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I would take a tyre off and check I have just rechecked my pairs the 3.5s are LP816 (I miss read as 916) and my 4.5s are LP875 the 3.5 is the measurement where the tyre sits on the inside, if you are measuring 4.5 - 5 on the outside that is likely 3.5 on the inside. I am 99.999% certain they are 3.5J wheels
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I would guess the hole in the gasket that doesn't match a hole in the block is so that the gasket can be fitted either way withjout risk of blocking the oilway to the rockers Ah but that idea doesn't make sense as the gasket is marked top as it has the tab at the back
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herald standard wheels are 3.5j so realistically 155 max 145 would have been the original size if radials. You can check the width easily, there will be a code stamped on the "spoke" under the hub cap lp916 = 3.5j, lp875 = 4.5j fitted to estates, Vitesse and late mk3 spit, and lp923 (the hens teeth) 5.5j which were aftermarket
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5 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Yes, I agree with NM. Apart from my aberration when I tried the drilled and grooved my GT6 has only had 2 sets of discs in 75k miles.
What are you doing with them Dan?!!
Chocolate discs
mmmmm.
Doug
probably not enough use so they start to corrode, I find it is corrosion that means the swept area shrinks, not wear that kills them.
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I would still talk to them as if working on the brakes they should have checked. I would not be happy if finding brake problems weeks after having them fixed. I would never replace pads without disk as disks generally don't last 2 sets of pads. Anyway it's a pretty simple job and as I said they probably all come from the same factory unless you are going for extremely expensive race ones. They are after all pretty basic on these cars.
But as Pete said do make sure the hub faces are clean and not distorted.
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surely if Moordale motors fitted them you should speak to them as they should stand by the parts they fit and the checks they make in fitting them. I wouldn't be surprised if all suppliers are ultimately getting them from the same manufacturer.
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it could be crud blocking the fuel lines from the tank. You could test the pump by putting a length of fuel pipe from the inlet to a small jar of fuel and then turn the engine over (or use the lever can't remember if mk4 has one though) it should give squirts periodically from the outlet side.
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might be easier to see if you can obtain a later hood frame from a breaker such as spitbitz or spitfire graveyard
Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!
in Engine
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On our cars certainly as they are not stretched. Some modern cars use bolts/studs that are single use as they are designed to stretch when torqued. Ours are just simple studs so no issue so long as, as Doug says they are not damaged.