DanMi
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Posts posted by DanMi
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I've often found that poor charging is down to the control box rather than the dynamo. The contacts corrode and then it doesn't charge properly.
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Also on the MK2 there is a spring that goes from the nearly horizontal arm to the chassis. If this is missing or weak the pedal is simply to light and then as you accelerate your foot comes up then as you slow it drops causing a kangaroo effect. So make sure all throttle return springs are good. Or as others have suggested change to cable if not worried about originality
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That looks like a standard mechanical fan with a viscous coupling. It is turned by the fan belt so will always be turning when the engine is running, unlike a modern electric fan. The viscous coupling simply slows the fan at high revs. This is totally normal for a late 1500. The green tubes appear to be overflows from the carbs again normal. The overflow bottle is missing and should sit on the drivers side chassis leg in front of the radiator, I wouldn't be too concerned as Heralds didn't have one (I think) and really all that happens is when the rad heats up water expands and enters the bottle. Then when it cools it sucks the same amont back in so it should be full anyway when hot even without the bottle if filled cold. The bottle and bracket are pretty cheap anyway.
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polarity is easy to change just quickly touch a wire from the positive (assuming negative earth) to the field terminal on the dynamo. I would always do ths when installing a new one anyway
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I used the same por 15 kit on my spit. though I also put some gravel in whilst using he marine clean and phosphoric acid and rattled occasionally to aid cleaning. It was a pig to get it all out! but still good 9 years on
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definitely not early spit
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there is a plate welded on with a welded on nut. I think that is all there was from the factory, the stanpart belts used the eye screwed int the captive nut.
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The MK2 had a floor mounting point in the outside rear corner of the floor pan and one on the propshaft tunnel from the factory. Any other mounts were dealer or aftermarket as Adrian is correct seatbelts were not a factory fit. These can be used but you would need to make fittings in the wheel arch if not already present. The plates are readily available eg
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Plus have a look at the pivot/clevis pin at the top of the clutch pedal where it attaches to the master cylinder. Both the hole in the pedal and those in the master cylinder pushrod can wear oval and the clevis pin can wear badly, leading to a significant loss of travel
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the pushrod tubes on the early engines have a habit of leaking as well making the dizzy side oily. I sealed in in using a socket with a step to swage the ends and some loctite green (the wicking type) (1200 spit engine). On mine it looked a lot of oil but didn't notice on the dipstick
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I would first check that the relay is actually getting a voltage on the output side. You can hear it click but is it actually making contact. Ihad similar symptoms a year or so back, and a quick clean of the contacts in the relay sorted it. As the relay is located on the bulkhead near the battery (Or should be) this is easy to check, before taking the tunnel off
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part number is different at least for a spit mk4 box
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Wilko do a grease which I believe is Comma seems ok. I use Beal.org.uk for unf setscrews nuts etc
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I would phone and speak to the club before adjusting anything. I would suspect that there should be 2 different bolt types, 1 to attach bracket to chassis and on the shock to the bracket.
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or wear in the pivot at the top of the clutch pedal where it attaches to the master cylinder. The hole can get elongated and the pin badly worn which means much reduced clutch pedal travel
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all spitfires up until about 1972 used single springs. but it is probably herald as it was on a herald 1360 engine. The configuration today however may of course not be how it left the factory.
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If you are going to go to the effort of taking the piston out, I would put a new seal kit on. If it is sticking there is probably corrosion on the pistons so I would bank on replacing those too. I have just levered the pistons out with 2 screwdrivers before but that does knacker the lip of the piston but as I said If I'm going this far they would be scrap anyway.
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Yes 128424 is for a 1200 according to Canley classics. I'm pretty sure using a 8 port rocker shaft respaced for the 6 port head would put the oil holes out of line with the rockers but that's not to say people haven't done it as 1200 parts are harder to come by.
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I got rid of the vinyl gaitor as the early cars didn't have them originally. I think part of the problem is the bulk of the seams on the carpet, originals were molded not sewn
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5/16 UNF the stud is part no 101962
here is an online parts catalogue in PDF
https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Triumph_Spitfire_mki_ii_Parts_Manual.pdf
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The hard part is getting all the nuts bolts/gravel out! I used the frost sealer kit 10 years ago and still good. It requires marine clean a degreaser, followed by a phosphoric acid treatment then the sealer.
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my bad it,s a 6 so they won't fit
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or get the cam4545 nuts from a late mini they are flanged so don't need a washer minisport are good
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The club do negotiate quite a good deal with H&H, When I had my delco done a few years back it was significantly more to go direct
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vitesse diff
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Is the tachometer and speedo reading correctly as as stated above the herald/ early spitfire 4.11 diff gives 3000rpm at 50mph