DanMi
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Posts posted by DanMi
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Without taking the cam out and looking for an identifying numbers, the only way would be to measure the valve timing. Of course if they have fitted a weber carb it's not unlikely that the cam is not standard. It may also have had other mods. Mine is pretty easy to rev and is standard
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it should be pointing between the lugs on the indicator switch, normally 3 oclock (I have swapped mine to match moderns so 9 on mine). I suspect a new rack has been put on and not centralised. You need to count the number of turns lock to lock, then turn back half of this number, this is the central position then put the column on so that the cancel lug is in the right place and d then put the wheel on straight, then set the tracking to match
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or these guys overhauled my speedo and they say they can print faces in any colour/font on rebuilt units so again maybe they would supply the faces.
https://www.classicsparesengineering.co.uk/about-us.php#services
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Why not contact the guy in Denmark, maybe he could supply just the faces, he can only say no
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don't forget that seatbelts were not a factory fit in the 60s (not sure of exact dates) so even most of the so called originals are really aftermarket ones or the dealer fitted whatever they had. Quickfitsbs replaced the webbing on my Britax Excelsiors belts in a light grey blue colour and supplied all of the fixings a couple of years ago
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I would put the top back on the pump connect the pipe from the tank and the operate the lever manually you should get a good squirt of fuel with each pump. If you do then the pump is basically fine. If not then there is either a blockage or the pump is not working. There are kits available to repair or buy a replacement. Also try with the fuel cap open as a blocked tank breather could cause pressure
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the diaphragm is the red rubber bit between the 2 halve of the body you would need to undo the screws which can be seen. The black circle is a one way valve. Ah Pete beat me
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definitely out for on then the air distribution is controlled by flaps either side of the heater unit
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a blockage somewhere, I would run a hose pipe through all the pipes until it runs clear
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Yep I bought a couple of the early brass taps all sent back as they leaked, ow just have a blanking plug
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You should be able to access it by just pulling down the top of the shelf, no need to strip it out, I do agree though it is an awkward place. You shouldn't need to access it often though
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if you have the longer ones just don't pull them full up so long as the spikes engage they will still work even if the clip is not tight up against the edge of the lip. There are also issues with pattern door skins. I know my spit needs long clips as the lip they attach to is longer than original
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I just put a bit of engine oil on the lip and a smear on the crank where the seal will sit
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As far as I am aware there are no timing marks on the flywheel only on the front pulley. I don't think the flywheel and crank were balanced together, so as long as the dowel fits that should be ok
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The flow through the manifold heats the incoming air/fuel a bit to help in cold weather, probably not doing any good with the way the cars are driven today
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firstly have you got the correct bushes as that is a late Spitfire 1500 steering column not a GT6, I'm not familiar with these but I believe they are different
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If you have the head off it's easy to see if it has been converted, as you will be able to see the valve seat inserts on the exhaust ports. Valve stem seals were never fitted at the factory.
https://enginetekniks.co.uk/unleaded-conversions/
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You should be able to get the tunnel off by releasing the handbrake and the putting the car into 4th/2nd gear and just fiddle with the gear lever whilst pulling the tunnel off. If the clutch plate is seized to the flywheel I have in the past warmed the engine and then started in gear then drive with the clutch in pressing and releasing the throttle of course that requires space. You can also run it on axle stands and do a similar thing though make sure it's secure. If all else fails it's gearbox out and clutch off.
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not sure how you are getting on with the bonnet but just spotted this on ebay not cheap but looks pretty solid
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The flywheel is different between the spring and diaphragm clutches that looks like a later diaphragm. The flywheel looks a bit scored and very shiny so maybe worth having it skimmed. plus yes remove and check the backplate
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15 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
Graham don't know if it will work on your system, but to keep our network remote session from home active whilst monitoring our water supply system thro telemetry we used to keep a largish nut on the shift key,
The reason the powers of be limited access was for security and minimize costs/users wanted to ensure we only accessed the system for the least period by logging us off if there was no activity for a set period, as a duty engineer you would scan the system as you walked past, TV Ad breaks & having to access and log on was painful, so we devised a way to keep the system/access active.
You can always beat the system & where there's a need/wish there's a solution!
Peter T
or you can download a simple bit of code called mouse jiggler which just moves the mouse pointer every now and then to simulate use
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there is no mention of a hydraulic brake light switch in the mk1 spit parts manual, though I agree that's what it looks like and where that brake connector is located is where the starter solenoid would normally be. So long as it works
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what is the 3 way joint in the brake pipe on the bulkhead for that is not standard
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Yes the overriders attach by hooking over over the small cutout on the welded on bracket and then bolt through one of the holes in the front plus through the bumper and a spacer. There are 2 holes as the GT6 has slightly different overriders
Adjusting solenoid operating lever - use an ammeter
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
As stated above I would check voltage on the blue wire, I had a similar overdrive not working which turned out to be dirty/misaligned contacts in the relay so the relay clicked but no contact was made, just needed a bit of a clean and adjust and has worked fine ever since.