DanMi
-
Posts
917 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by DanMi
-
-
are we sure that the all aluminium gearbox housing of the Standard 8 is strong enough for a 1147 particularly with twin carbs? might be better to use the herald/spit box and bell housing with the 8 top/gear lever even though heavier
-
you could also just use a metal pipe attached to a bell housing bolt rather than the bulkhead, as there is then no flexing
-
any second hand part dealer eg spitfire graveyard spitbitz etc will supply a used one often easier than getting the bolts out. spitfire herald etc are all the same
-
1 hour ago, nicrguy1966 said:
He only mentioned Lucas distributors on his website. Does he also do Delco?
There is H&H ignition systems that do Delco, though when I got mine done it was cheaper to go via the club shop than direct
-
1
-
-
I would try putting some pipe from the fuel pump inlet into a can of petrol to see if that works which would determine if it is pump or fuel line
-
1
-
-
maybe he can. Triumph 2000/2500 used the BW type 35 as well
-
1
-
-
Vitesse is slightly different on the vernier (according to the Workshop manual) 1 division = 4 degrees so 2.5 divisions would be the factory setting, then adjust by ear from there
-
the original way to set the timing, as the front pulley only has a top dead centre mark (assuming it is like an early 4 cyl), was to fully retard the vernier then set the timing static to TDC by turning the distributer and then advance the vernier the required no of clicks, on my mk2 spit 1 click = 1 degree. That gives you a good starting point and by noting the number of clicks you will know what the timing is set to
-
1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
Dan thats good that puts a date into core plug changes thanks
Pete
To confuse matters a bit more it wasn't a complete change. The plugs on mine to the water jacket are bucket type but the 3 on the distributer side and the big one on the back of the cam drilling (which are not to the water jacket) are still the welch type, can't really understand why they would machine the block in 2 ways but they did
-
40 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
and you willl likely find 13 psi will have bucket core plugs and 7 will have dished welch plugs
They changed to bucket plugs in about 1965 at least on the spit though retained the 7Lb radiator cap until the mk3 in 1967 (my 1966 has bucket core plugs ). Apparently they also improved the water pump seal and used different hoses to cope with the pressure (John Thomason Guide to Originality)
-
just be aware that the 063 that people are recommending (me as well) has the terminals the other way around so the go at the back which is not a big deal and could be considered a good thing as they are away from the clamp
-
the clutch/flywheel will be fine if it has the later diaphragm clutch, but not the early spring (i ran a mk2 spit like that for 10 years) the 1500 clutch will need a different clutch plate to match to the gearbox. You could use a 1360 exhaust. You would also really as others have said need to up the gearing so either a 3.63 diff or spitfire OD gearbox or both.
The other option would be a spitfire 1300 or herald 1360 engine and the 1360 gearing was the same. The 1500 is more about torque the 1300 more revvy
-
new oil will never stop a noisy gearbox, if it is unusually noisy there is wear, even if that noise was due to low oil there will still be wear, new oil may diminish the noise but long term the wear is still there and getting worse all the time
-
1
-
-
One question. Is it that the car is sitting high at the front or could it be that it is sitting low at the back, making it look high at the front. A weak spring or disintegrated spring pads can make the rear low.
-
1
-
-
it is also the case for the 4 cylinder cars. I have measured them and they are just a roughly equivalent which is narrower. (I can't find the photo I took as it was 3 years ago
-
Could be that a lot of the bearings being supplied, particularly if not in a 3 part clutch kit are less deep than the originals.
-
saying the cam timing can only be changed by a 1/4 tooth by turning it over or using he other holes is not really true as the holes in the sprocket are bigger than the bolts, so there is a good few degrees of movement of the sprocket before tightening and this gives the fine control, so it can be set spot on without a vernier setup
-
As the Scrapman has said I would suspect that the horn relay wiring is still inside the car as the relay should be on the battery box strengthener and is not there. There should be 2 inline fuses, 1 for the horn and the 2nd for the main beam flash, both should be close to the hole. I would also advise putting the loom through grommets as it passes through the body.
-
-
here are the Moss ones note that the lower block is much wider and buts up against the rack bracket, much better than most
-
1 hour ago, Iain T said:
There is quite a gap from the ali clamps and stop
Not on all solid clamps. The ones from Moss have a much larger lower block which buts up against the verticle flanges
-
I have the solid rack mounts from Moss, which do contact the retention plates. I have no problem with vibrations, though still have a standard column joint
-
I would find out estimated costs. The labour costs to "simply" cut the original valves in will likely end up over 50% of a full recon head
-
yes lump = entire engine
Advice please 1147cc Herald Engine
in Engine
Posted
Colin I think you have that the wrong way around, the single rail was 1500 all 1200 and 1300 were 3 rail. There have also been about 3 designs of alloy bell housing, the early ones were weak.