DanMi
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Posts posted by DanMi
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Australian? https://web.archive.org/web/20130726114450/http://www.vtr.org/Herald/Herald-hickman.shtml so a 1959 948cc
just noticed your location so that makes sense.
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The club shop have an inlet manifold reconditioning service with stainless pipe for the spits 3-1500 so could probably get yours done.
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with that bleed pipe one end is attached to the slave and the other to a bell housing to engine bolt, so unlike the main clutch it will not have any bending when the engine moves, so fine as a metal pipe.
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an alternative could be 409001 used on the TR4, originally had a detachable knob, but looks basically identical and some tr4s used 401458
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try contacting TD fitchet I have over the last 2 years acquired for a spit the main carpet both footwells, gearbox tunnel and the rear shelf all OEM NOS though mainly for mk4 / 1500 and some LHD so it will have a rubber mat on the passenger side and I will have to cut the gearbox tunnel carpet for the footrest(my car is mk2)
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21 minutes ago, johny said:
In fact I reckon to lose 5 thou off a crank would require a huge mileage with numerous thrust changes or some kind of seizure. As the first is unlikely I would just confirm the crank thrust surface condition and fit the required size bearings...
which should be exactly the same as the ones that came out which is what I have been saying, just look at the size info on the existing thrust washers and buy the same, if then the endfloat is too great the crank is worn , which is not likely here as endfloat is not terrible. Or am I being stupid and they are not stamped with any oversize as big ends and mains are
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14 minutes ago, johny said:
Wow big difference in cost there! Im not sure even when crank was new standard size thrusts were always used as it depends on the block machining as well. Of course you have to inspect the bearing surfaces but if ok Ive got no problem using oversize thrusts...
agreed but if the crank was ground for a standard and a plus 0.005 then that is what would come out and what I would replace. if replacing like for like ( I did not mention standard or otherwise) does not bring within spec then I would get it to a machine shop, I guess there is always a trade off between cost and longevity. I also have no issue using oversized thrusts if that is what the crank/block is machined for, but I wouldn't do it to accommodate a worn crank/block
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29 minutes ago, johny said:
Plus as I found you dont know how much the existing thrusts have worn. If for example he has standard size but unworn ones then he needs only one 5 thou oversize thrust. However if theyre standards but worn then just replacing like for like might be sufficient...
It does not matter how much the thrust washers have worn, they are bin fodder. In my opinion if the same size (new)as existing does not bring within spec then get it to a machine shop for a grind to the next oversize, I would not mess with trying different sized thrust washers as if the crank itself has worn then the bearing surface may well be not perfect so it won't last long
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without seeing the gauge I can't tell and the exact measurement doesn't really matter here, my main point is that you need to look at the existing thrust washers / bearings as the crank may have already had a grind and they may be over-sized already
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8 minutes ago, johny said:
Yes I agree so looks like the second method I described was used and the reading depends on how many times the needle has gone round. From the first rough measurement with tape photo it could be 1.68mm....
the small dial is telling you that it has gone round less than once if it was 1.68mm the small dial would be 2/3 of the way between 1 and 2
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you will not know what size that you need until you get the old ones out, a dial gauge will not tell you if the crank has already been ground and oversized fitted. I think that gauge is reading 0.68mm (it can go both ways hence the red numbers going anticlockwise and the small gauge is about 2/3 of the way to 1mm, but that's not terminal just a bit worn. The bearings should have a mark on the back to indicate the size eg std or +0.05 so look at them before ordering new, same goes for the mains and big ends
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GMC205Z will be made by county and GMC205 TRW. The original metal cap certainly won't fit the TRW one so the extension won't. Though I have run with the brake master cylinder as a gmc205 for over 30 years with no extension and no problem, though mine is a MK2 spit so slightly smaller type 12 callipers
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Owen at Park Lane was prototyping MK3 parts years ago so maybe worth a call
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balance is really most important for a nice idle, once the throttles open a bit any small difference will have a tiny effect
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1 hour ago, Nearly There said:
Ah, okay. Thanks Rob. There was a listing for a set of 5.5's on ebay that had come off of a Mk4 Spitfire. The listing has ended now, so missed out on them unfortunately. I will contact the seller to see if they are available though.
Don't always trust what the owner says, I have seen quite a few 3.5j early wheels listed as 4.5 as they have a ruler measuring the wrong bit. There were no spitfire 5.5j wheels so the listing was not correct unless maybe Ford or aftermarket wheels
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I thought that spitfires only got 5J for the late years not 5.5
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The gasket clearly has a hole each end for the rocker oil feed at the rear, so it would seem that gasket manufacturer has made it so that it works either way.
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and replacing entire shells with brand new is perfectly acceptable as is replacing motorcycle engine panels and restamping with the original engine number. What I really don't understand is why anyone would do such a good restoration whilst ignoring/faking the cars ID. It is not a case of triggers broom as if it was it would have body parts from various cars, it is pure 1965 MK2 (having looked at the extensive auction photos) maybe with a few later mechanicals eg engine. If that car was to be crashed any insurance assessor would refuse any payout.
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48 minutes ago, foshi said:
i agree but it went on a lot , you used to see 1972 v5 with chassis plate for sale all the time who knows how many classics are not quite what they should be a lot for sure paul
I have no problem with cars made up from parts so long as some of it relates. That car has a MK2 chassis early MK2 body tub, early mk2 doors MK2 bonnet MK2 boot lid Mk2 roof, Mk2 interior, nothing on the body is MK3, if the body tub came from a mk3, I would accept that it was made from parts
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for faded black plastic gentle heat from a heat gun works wonders, the colour just reappears. even on coloured plastics, brought the colour back om my daughters topper dinghy pretty well as well
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All of the modern replacement floors have the seat nuts set at the MK4 spacing. If using MK3 runners you need to drill 2 new holes each side the actual pan is identical. Carpet sets will fit all the holes are not cut or at least not on any aftermarket carpet set that I have seen. There is a slight difference in the profile of the propshaft tunnel but I do not think it would affect the carpets. My carpets are a non moulded set in a MK2
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of course it matters, It is fraud however you look at it
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but it likely detracts from it's legitimate owner if it is a stolen car. I have no problems with Bitsas
SU jets
in Fuel System
Posted
They are handed so it becomes pretty obvious when you go to fit them the pipe bends to the drivers side when entering the jet and the attachment hole in the jet goes toward the middle of the 2 carbs, they will only fit 1 way.