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DanMi

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Posts posted by DanMi

  1. You still need to find and sort the original problem, before the valve fell in, ie 1 cylinder no compression and 3 low so you need to examine the head, bores etc before any decision can be made.

     

    so probably remove and check all valve seats and maybe a leak down test on the bores to check how well the rings are sealing

  2. return spring was the same as the mk2 return springs 136835 and not very strong

    19 minutes ago, johny said:

    but surely if you can control the revs smoothly when stationary the pedal, linkage, springs and carb butterfly valves must all be working well?

    the movement of the car can make your foot jump on the pedal if the spring is too weak hence when it accelerates your foot moves back slightly so you decelerate which makes your foot move forward, hence the kangaroo effect. I had to make sure that my foot was resting on the A post carpet when my spring was missing to prevent this.

  3. Nothing wrong with the 1147cc engine, I have one in my spitfire OK in a bit higher state of tune but a great little engine.  there should be a sprung washer between the end cap and the rocker. It looks like the rocker shaft has been rebuilt as all of the pedestals have a recess for a screw originally this was only the rear one, which is not a problem as they are the only ones available now and it makes no difference.

  4. 20 minutes ago, Wagger said:

    Thanks for pointing out no collets on that engine. Wear on a stem, valve bounce due toa missed gear or incorrect assembly could be the cause.

    Looks like a cheap car hire until it is fixed is the best solution to transport problems. Maybe a friend or family member has a spare car?

    My son would do a 'Try before you Buy' option on a new car. He has a load of nerve.

    the rocker shaft end cap is missing so the rocker will have moved and hit the valve cap rather than the valve stem thus dislodging it.

  5. 25 minutes ago, Chris Longhurst said:

    would agree with the 'mistrike' theory turning GE to GF

    That would not explain the siamesed inlet ports aluminium pushrod tubes and head stud arrangements all definitive characteristics of an 1147cc cylinder head

  6. I am not looking at the engine number but the engine itself. The simplest clue is that it has 6 head studs where the later engine has 5,  also look at the holes where the pushrods go through they are like this 1147cc on https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303396064559

    not like this 1300/1500 

    https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/modified-cylinder-heads.html

    could the F be a badly stamped B plus engines may have been decked and restamped

     

    plus if you look in the photo with the valve guide missing you can clearly see a single inlet pipe so it has the siamese inlet ports of the 1147

     

    I guess some PO may have drilled a 1300 block to take an 1147cc head but I am not sure if that is possible and certainly not sensible

  7. get him to confirm what engine you have before any work, as I am 100% sure that is an 1147cc or smaller. It has 6 cylinder head nuts on the manifold side not 5, there are clearly 2 inlet ports not 4 and I can clearly see the aluminium pushrod tubes that were only present on the early engines. Plus the rocker could not come off the 1300 rocker shaft as the pedestal goes both sides. A good used engine may be your best bet. (I god I sound like a Triumph geek)

  8. 1 minute ago, Kelv said:

    So if I order a 1300 short engine... Then what do I do? Who will fit it and what will they charge?

    a short engine is just the block with crank pistons oil pump and sump, so you would need a 1300 cylinder head, camshaft rockers etc.

  9. 35 minutes ago, JohnD said:

     You could talk to them about the rocker assembly which would be extra, OR they can supply a complete rebuilt engine for £625, still less than the £1000 your so-called 'mechanic' wanted!

    That £625 is for a short engine not a full engine. I do agree though that the price quoted for a cylinder head is very high

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