DanMi
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Posts posted by DanMi
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You still need to find and sort the original problem, before the valve fell in, ie 1 cylinder no compression and 3 low so you need to examine the head, bores etc before any decision can be made.
so probably remove and check all valve seats and maybe a leak down test on the bores to check how well the rings are sealing
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If it is running rich also check that the jets are fully returning after releasing the choke, they can be a bit sticky and need pushing up if not carefully fitted and adjusted
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certainly don't disturb that seal unless you have no choice, as I believe that the correct profile is no longer available
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return spring was the same as the mk2 return springs 136835 and not very strong
19 minutes ago, johny said:but surely if you can control the revs smoothly when stationary the pedal, linkage, springs and carb butterfly valves must all be working well?
the movement of the car can make your foot jump on the pedal if the spring is too weak hence when it accelerates your foot moves back slightly so you decelerate which makes your foot move forward, hence the kangaroo effect. I had to make sure that my foot was resting on the A post carpet when my spring was missing to prevent this.
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1500 is a very easy swop as it is basically the same engine, only downside would be the 4.11 gearing is a bit low for the less revvy 1500. MX5 has been done as has Ford https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=140&t=2012020
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possibly but it has to come off anyway so not really important now.
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I think the pedestal appearing to move is likely just a trick of the light, but is probably the least of the issues
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Nothing wrong with the 1147cc engine, I have one in my spitfire OK in a bit higher state of tune but a great little engine. there should be a sprung washer between the end cap and the rocker. It looks like the rocker shaft has been rebuilt as all of the pedestals have a recess for a screw originally this was only the rear one, which is not a problem as they are the only ones available now and it makes no difference.
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20 minutes ago, Wagger said:
Thanks for pointing out no collets on that engine. Wear on a stem, valve bounce due toa missed gear or incorrect assembly could be the cause.
Looks like a cheap car hire until it is fixed is the best solution to transport problems. Maybe a friend or family member has a spare car?
My son would do a 'Try before you Buy' option on a new car. He has a load of nerve.
the rocker shaft end cap is missing so the rocker will have moved and hit the valve cap rather than the valve stem thus dislodging it.
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25 minutes ago, Chris Longhurst said:
would agree with the 'mistrike' theory turning GE to GF
That would not explain the siamesed inlet ports aluminium pushrod tubes and head stud arrangements all definitive characteristics of an 1147cc cylinder head
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by the way there is nothing wrong with having an 1147cc. My mk2 spit 1147cc engine is great
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I am not looking at the engine number but the engine itself. The simplest clue is that it has 6 head studs where the later engine has 5, also look at the holes where the pushrods go through they are like this 1147cc on https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303396064559
not like this 1300/1500
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/modified-cylinder-heads.html
could the F be a badly stamped B plus engines may have been decked and restamped
plus if you look in the photo with the valve guide missing you can clearly see a single inlet pipe so it has the siamese inlet ports of the 1147
I guess some PO may have drilled a 1300 block to take an 1147cc head but I am not sure if that is possible and certainly not sensible
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get him to confirm what engine you have before any work, as I am 100% sure that is an 1147cc or smaller. It has 6 cylinder head nuts on the manifold side not 5, there are clearly 2 inlet ports not 4 and I can clearly see the aluminium pushrod tubes that were only present on the early engines. Plus the rocker could not come off the 1300 rocker shaft as the pedestal goes both sides. A good used engine may be your best bet. (I god I sound like a Triumph geek)
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looking at it there is a hole for the rocker feed at both ends, since there is only a rocker feed at the rear, it is designed to fit either way
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I am pretty sure that if it mattered it would be marked TOP
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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Dan this is a 13/60
That looks like a 1200 engine to me as it has 6 cylinder head nuts on the manifold side and the rocker shaft is definitely the early 1200 type
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It would probably be better to buy a complete engine even a used one. To convert to a 1300 would require a different inlet manifold, carburettor. It is not a straight swop
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1 minute ago, Kelv said:
So if I order a 1300 short engine... Then what do I do? Who will fit it and what will they charge?
a short engine is just the block with crank pistons oil pump and sump, so you would need a 1300 cylinder head, camshaft rockers etc.
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try ringing the club shop as they certainly used to get engines/cylinder heads rebuilt by Ivor Searl
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35 minutes ago, JohnD said:
You could talk to them about the rocker assembly which would be extra, OR they can supply a complete rebuilt engine for £625, still less than the £1000 your so-called 'mechanic' wanted!
That £625 is for a short engine not a full engine. I do agree though that the price quoted for a cylinder head is very high
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If that valve has fallen into the cylinder, there may well be damage to the piston/bore, head needs to come off to assess but be prepared for more than just a recon cylinder head
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Also some relays join 30 and 85 internally so only need 1 +ve feed
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Also a likely culprit for horns not working is a missing earth strap across the steering UJ or one missing between the steering rack grease plug and frame. The horn relay is a very simple device and you can easily clean the contacts inside.
Zero compression on cylinder 4
in Engine
Posted
just send Bernard a link to this thread