Mad4classics
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Posts posted by Mad4classics
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18 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
if you wish to solder then you need the better solder /crimp bullet with holes for appropriate wire diameters
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/27/category/6
I agree but I think the later crimps are a different size to the early hollow bullet.
David
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If you mean the early style hollow bullet as opposed to the later crimp; these were intended to just have the strands folded back.
Soldering may make you feel better but creats a weak point at the point where the solder wicking into thr cable ends, that's where it will break eventually.
The key is moisture proofing.
David
Nice picture here:-
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/709/category/6
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I would agree with 1/8BSP.
The two taps on picture are 1/8BSP & 1/8BSPT next to grease nipple and blanking plug.
David
Possible source with different thread selection:-
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If the lock washer is too thin, is there any mileage in adding shims against the lockwasher? Aka Mini suspension ball joint shims.
Don't know if the Mini ones would be the correct size unfortunatly ( they're 1+1/8 ID ; 1+1/2 OD and come in 3,5&10thou) but there will be something available out there that will fit.
Just an idle thought....
David
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Think I've got something similar?
Works well; has three differently cranked nozzles.
David
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On 03/05/2020 at 09:43, Robin said:
Out of interest ANG is selling a drain tap - part number 602915A - but says it for a TR.
That comes up as 1/4BSPT on my search, so not suitable for the block.
I quite like a tap on the block, so I've gone for a Vapormatic UK, VPE3603 drain tap. This is marketed for Massey Ferguson tractors (I can hear the sharp intakes of breath already). It's 1/2" UNF and needs a sealing washer - I've used a home made copper washer. The tap fits a treat and is pretty much in the same style as the later Triumph part.
David
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Found this manual giving the setup procedure; might help you.
Won't mixing tops and bottoms in your "bitser" horn will mean the mechanical throw is wrong and need reseting? Just a thought.
David
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I'd give it a go - seems a shame to bin them. It's just a coil + diaphram and set of contacts inside. The contacts will probably need cleaning.
There's a small adjustment screw towards the front of the horn ( not the large central screw); the setup procedure in the WSM calls for a 10Amp Ammeter to be conected in series while adjustment is made.
David
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15 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
Push the knob fully in to open the heater valve. When you look at the top of the heater valve, the cable should be fully extended when the valve is open.
Nigel
Does the Spitfire 4 differ from MK2 & MK3? Never thought about it before.
On mine it's all the way out for maximum heat.
David
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Looks like 1/2 x 20 UNF.
Got a funny home made jobby.
Trouble is 1/2 UNF, 1/4 BSP and 1/4 NPT are all pretty close to each other.
David
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NPT and BSP are close, but not the same.
Triumph used NPT threads quite often.
https://pipeandhose.com/book/npt-vs-bsp-pipe
Best comparison I could find with a quick search.
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Search for Quinton Hazell Y419, these are still available main line motor factors.
David
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Some of those cheap pumps have a rough arm that looks like it's designed to saw through the camshaft!
David
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Not sure if MGOC Spares are still open in the current situation - need to check; but remember 1500 fitted to Midget and their prices are good.
David
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Triumph filler and drain plug threads were originally 3/8 NPT Taper, but if you've got a different plug to use, you need the thread to suit that. Just remember what goes where!
David
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I wonder if service manuals just specify engine oil for carbureters for an easy life. Austin / Morris are just the same with Mini in that early manuals specified 20w/50 but later manuals quote 10w/40 both for engine and carbureter.
Basically I can't find a manual that says anything different than "engine oil" - whatever is being quoted for that.
Personally I use SU Damper oil; works for me.
David
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Hmm.. After some carefull measuring I think the early thread is 9/16 x 28-UNIFIED. I haven't got an example of the later boss thread so can't comment on what that is.
The unified thread series covers UNC, UNF, UNEF and several constant pitch series: 4-UN, 6-UN, 8-UN, 12-UN, 16-UN, 20-UN, 28-UN and 32-UN.
In amounst my boxes of bits I've found two 5/8 x 28-UN nuts; must be off a car I've had at some point in time; steering column boss maybe? So perhaps not so uncommon a thread.
David
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1 hour ago, Nigel Clark said:
According to the the factory WSM, it's 9/16" Whitworth, torque to 28-30 lb ft.
Nigel
OK, are we all talking about the same 105438 thread because the boss nut is pretty fine and certainly not 9/16-12 Whitworth. (Whitworth 1/2" tap next to boss nut).
I think you're better of buying the nut.
David
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Looks like 9/16-24 UNEF at a guess, but I haven't got a tap or die that size to verify it.
David
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Johnathon,
I think I'm with @NonMember as the best approach to take.
Some idle mussings, as Pete would say:-
On the single rail box fitted to 1500, isn't the gear lever only held in by the retaining ring ??? ; on the three rail box you would need to remove the small bolt and nylock nut that holds the gear lever to the rear remote control shaft aswell - not easy unless the opening in the tunnel allows access for 1/4" t- bar or you're a contourtionist and can access it by raising the tunnel enough!
With the gear lever out, you could at least get the tunnel off and then replace the gear lever. Doesn't get it unstuck but at least you'd have better access.
David
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Not sure why, but the aftermarket Delco caps seem to vary a lot between manufacturers.
Generally the fit is too loose, but one I've got is actually too big to seat down properly in the distributor body .
Managed to pick up a NOS Delco cap on eBay, brown in colour, fits perfectly; saving that one.
David
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It seems many suppliers are selling BSP sump plugs, do they just see 3/8 pipe and assume BSP will fit! As Pete's data above NPT is correct; BSP has a different TPI and will not screw in very far or seal properly.
David
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Purhaps you need one of these:-
or one of these:-
http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/magnetic_drain_plugs.html
These have the correct taper thread. Seems to be a lot of confusing information on various suppliers web sites; some list a plug which is 3/8 x 19 BSP (straight c/w sealing washer) whilst others list 3/8 x 18 NPT (tappered).
They can't both be right surely!
I'll stick with the ordinary non magnetic taper plug
David
New loom, hollow bullets
in Electrical System
Posted
The early hollow bullet fits something like the adapter in the picture; the later crimp I've shown falls straight though the hole!
David