Mad4classics
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Posts posted by Mad4classics
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5 hours ago, PeteH said:
Hi
Maybe a tiny bead of judiciously placed weld material might "square" things up?. This assumes they are steel not iron.
Were you refering to the manifold clamps, it would certainly even up the force between the exhaust and inlet if a small weld was added to one dimple only and fettled to sit level.
Aftermarket manifolds often suffer from having an increased flange thickness. On BMC A and B series engines you have to resort to fabricating stepped washers to take up the difference!
David
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Wheel studs are often overlooked and as Pete said, probably decades old.
If you've got wire wheel adaptors, going bigger is not an option.
However simply replacing 3/8" studs like for like, or longer if you've got alloys is a good idea in itself.
David
BTW: late Mini front hubs are 193ft/lb and keep going to the next split pin hole!
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The part I think your missing , correct me if I'm wrong, looks like a shallow core plug. It's 1 1/4" in diameter by 1/8" deep looks as if the body has been peened over slightly in six positions to hold it in.
I think H&H Ignition Solutions service Delco Remy distributors, they may be able to supply the missing plug.
Failing that, maybe a standard core plug could be adapted; this one is a bit deep :-
http://www.coreplugs.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=74_61&product_id=66
but could perhaps be cut down? The brass version would be easier to work and could be sealed in with Loctite 243.
Just a thought...
Regards,
David
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38 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
For warranty testing I had a Smiths drive unit , had two humongous electro magnets that shut down the grid if used in anger,
Giant rpm dial and stabilised drive motor.... when they closed us down it went on the skip along with a starter and alternator tester
As a superb air valve test rig there Is limit on what you can acrue from the skip in hindsight could have set up a nice little earner
The Smiths drive units are as rare as you know what! Double Do'oh
oh Well
David
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12 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Way back in the 70-90s when I waas involved with in factory tachograph calibration we had a spec for speedo was +10%+4mph so it could read 70 at true 60 and be within tolerance they must not read slow
Manual calibration measure 52.8 ft down the road, attach card pointer to speedo cable inner . push car exactly 52.8 ft count the turns.
X the turns by 100 and thats the turns per mile needs to match the numbers under the oddometer rolls
Pete
Pete is right, the calibration requirements on the speedo were fairly wide; the speedo was only supposed to be an “indication” of your speed and must not read slow.
However, that's not to say the operating principle of a NEMAG speedo is wildly inaccurate because they can be made to read a lot more accurately than they generally do; it was the calibration requirements which were loose and after decades of use, things will obviously have drifted further out.
I decided to do something about my tacho and speedo neither of which was reading correctly, so I re-calibrated them based on the principles gleaned from TM9-1829A Ordnance Maintenance: Speedometers, Tachometers, and Recorders - 1944 a War Department document. It was my winter project!
I built a lash-up consisting of a large electromagnet a power supply and a geared electric motor and managed to get very good results; you’ve just got to have a lot of patience.
David
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On 6/2/2018 at 11:40 AM, Anglefire said:
I changed my oil this morning and put the 3/4" adapter on and a Mann W916/1 filter (Eurocarparts about £2.70 after discount) - Its MAHOSIVE! compared to the old one
The length of thread into the block with the old adapter is tiny compared to the 3/4" one! Half as many threads at best! I did check how long the hole in the block is - and its very deep - longer than the new adapter.
Selecting Spitfire through this American site https://www.rockauto.com/ throws up a few alternatives; including MANN W920/17 which as far as I can see appears to be the same (read just as MAHOSIVE) as W916/1, apart from the case colour.
Among others, it also throws up this WIX 51312 filter, which I think is the one which is supplied with the 5/8 to 3/4 adaptor and WIX list the Spitfire as a direct application of this filter on their website.
You beat me to an oil change since my oil is still at the local Fedex depot and won't be delivered till tomorrow. Do'oh was going to do that today.
David
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Just for reference, the SU Carburetter High -Performance Manual gives the minimum air gap as about 0.010" to 0.015".
On this new - unused fixed needle HS2 piston I keep as a spare, the height of the plastic stop measures 0.013".
David
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With HS2 and trying to judge the standoff those stops would give you from the pictures; I suspect the larger stop is incorrect - but it's difficult to judge from pictures.
The stop is not very tall. If the piston is held off too far it will upset adjustment.
David
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The plastic piston stop is there to stop the piston resting directly on the bridge. Fuel discoloration makes it brown.
Might be available as a seperate part, worth a call to Burlen Ltd to find out.
David
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7 minutes ago, clive said:
Know what you mean about sharp bits. I use a socket and bar, do up tight, then back off a tad. If I get significant movement I tighten up a bit. I am surprised the the combo of holes/slots doesn't give you what you want though. But I thick as long as the bearings are not done up hard and have even a tiny bit of movement you are OK. Works for me....
I always deliberate over this one too - loose is bad but too tight is worse.
I think the procedure for hand tight is for new bearing fitment and is with the bearings lightly oiled, caliper removed and rotating the hub by hand in the same direction as you tighten. Back to the next split pin hole, mark and then disasemble to pack bearings with grease.
For end float adjustment where the bearing is already packed with grease, my book says remove caliper and apply torque of not more than 5lb/ft while rotating in the same direction. Slacken to nearest split pin hole.
I think the nut is 1/2unf so should give approx 4thou difference per split pin / hole combination.
David
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20 minutes ago, clive said:
Possible?
But thank you for posting this. I do wonder if the 3/4 adaptor should indeed be fitted to the filter first? But no info was supplied with them.However, the washer/spacer solution looks sensible and should work a treat. And glad you have got sorted...
I believe the 3/4 adapter WIX 24037 was originally supplied with a filter and so was perhaps intended to screw into the filter first to replicate the original.
I've lined these adapters up as they would screw into the oil filter which indicates the 5/8 threaded part is slightly longer on the 3/4 to 5/8 adapter.
Must have seen the block face with the filter removed many times but I can,t remember if it looks like yours- sorry, will look hard at the next oil change.
David
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1 hour ago, PeaTear said:
on a side note. From what I can determine the standard needle is aan but the ones in my carbs are aaq. Why would someone have changed these?
Probably should ask which car we're talking about,but..
The AAN needle was the standard needle for MK4 Spitfire. According to the MOSS catalogue recommendations https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/pdf/SPI001.pdf page A17 the AAQ is the richer needle recommendion for a 1500 when you've fitted both K&N filters and a tubular exhaust.
I think mintylamb is still down, but if you like to compare http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/technical_carb.htm has a nice spreadsheet, but you'll need LibreOffice installed.
If AAN is your standard needle I think AAQ would be a bit rich for a MK4 but OK if for a 1500 with different exhaust and air filters.
David
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1 hour ago, PeaTear said:
I'm not sure if that's the proper name for it but the dirty brass barrel in the picture. Should it have that ridge on it. Looks to me like someone has overtightened the grub screw but both needles are like this.
That dirty brass barrel is the needle guide. The 'pip' you're referring to in association with the spring biases the needle up against one side of the jet. Should be marked with a line or V on the visible face.
This type allows you to set the bias towards the throttle butterfly or away from it. Later types had a locater for the grub scew so could only be fitted one way round.
David
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9 hours ago, ShaunW said:
The problem I've had is finding out what tyres are actually available. I thought it was a bit short of 13s but couldn't find a site that listed them all rather than just the ones company ABC were selling.
Not easy, tyre manufacturers sell tyres to meet local regulations - in Europe ETRTO, one of a number of regualtory bodies for tyres worldwide. If you want to buy the latest standard it's €150; as with all standards - expensive.
https://www.etrto.org/Publications/Order
However, found this on the British Tyre Manufacturers Association website.
https://btmauk.com/advice-about-tyres/
David
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Did you mean to have so many 14 inch tyre in the table? You've lost 175/70x 13 along with several others in your latest table.
David
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
80 is the std ratio for a ordinary tyre so an olde 155 13 is now a 155 80 13
The rim width is the controlling factor many fit /you can fit a 175 80 13 to 5 or 5.5 rim but its too wide for a 4.5" rim
Of you may only have a 3.5 or 4" rim then no more than 155 80 orig was 145 13
Dropping to lower profile is not recomended as the tyres play a big part of the suspension and the bump and rebound you get
We have a local spitty IV with 185 and they foul the wings /look a bit on steroids
As yours is a nice spitty 4 dont wreck it with any oversize tryes
Going tooo oversize is not a good idea. Modern tyres are matched to modern suspension setups.
You must look at the manufacturers recommendations for rim size and consider the rolling radius when selecting an alternative tyre size.
For instance, the difference in rolling radius between 155/80 x 13 and 175/70 x 13 is less than 3%.
Taking Falken SN832 as an example the 155/80 x 13 approved rim width range is 4.0 to 5.0 and the 175/70 x 13 is 4.5 to 6.0 according to the 2018 Falken Pattern Digest page 25.
David
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2 hours ago, NonMember said:
I wouldn't advise the use of an open-ended spanner on a crank pulley nut. They really are only good for low torque use. Ring spanner at minimum, proper socket is best.
Unless, of course, your only reason for it is to turn the engine over.
That,s exactly so, it's hard to get a socket on it with the radiator and horns in the way
. Just quoting the size.
You'd need a socket to torque it up.
David
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It's 1 7/16 AF, bought a large open ended spanner to fit.
David
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The TR Register is a member club of the FBHVC. Don't think the TSSC is?
David
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On 26/05/2016 at 3:05 PM, Ben Caswell said:
I have found that if you keep topping up the oil to the top dipstick mark the engine does use more oil. Try monitoring the level and only top up if it gets below about half way between the two marks. When topping up don't go right up to the top mark.
Just read through this thread.
Last weekend did a round trip of 750+ miles in GT6 mk3. On the journey there, the oil level went down from the high mark to half way. So obviously though "this is going to be hovering on the low mark by the time we get back!" However, after the return journey it was still sitting at the half way point.
Sounds like the same issue. As Gully said, does anyone know the correct dipstick dimensions?
David
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6 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
The pic is an originall AC not , made now, only varieties of replicas or often very different designs
Could be available as new old stock
Kits for the ac are avaiable diaphragms are easy but the valves will be coined /staked in and not easily replaced
Pete
Pete,
Spitsbits in the States do a very close copy of the original AC pump which has a nice smooth land area on the lever where it bears on the cam, I believe it's the same pump for a Herald??? Some of the cheap repro ones look as if the lever has been punched from sheet with a die that's seen better days and thrown straight in the plating bath without deburring!
http://www.spitbits.com/store/18-OE-Quality-FUEL-PUMP-with-lever-and-gasket-MK1-MK3-SPIT-P4892.aspx
Apparently they also keep a repair kit for it.
I don't suppose you know of any uk based supplier who stock something of this quality?
David
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Wayne,
I was coming from the point of view of the timing mark probably being OK.
The distributor however gets a hard life and is often overlooked when it comes to rebuild time. However the springs do weaken over time and they wear the posts on which they attach. The weights also wear their pivot posts and the main shaft bushes wear etc...
Sometimes the effect of all this is that the distributor has an initial advance even at tickover / static and as the maximum mechanical advance is limited (22deg for a MK3 GT6;20deg MK2 and 15/19degree MK1 according to my book) then the effective all-in advance will not be as much if you stick by the book figure. But you can compensate for this by advancing the ignition timing, this puts it about right in the mid RPM range which is where the engine spends most time when your driving - but it will be over advanced low down where you probably won't notice a problem and under advanced as you approach the RED line (we don't do that any more
) .
It was just my musings when you described advancing the ignition meant a whole better driving experience.
Now as Pete says it's definitely time for a cup of tea.
David
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The distributor advance at any rpm is the sum of static + mechanical + vacuum.
Very generally a total advance of ~ 32-33 degrees all-in is about right.
So is the distributor the correct one? Is the vacuum advance the correct one (mine wasn't)?
Also a worn distributor will give misleading figures. The springs could have weakened or the distributor worn so that you're getting more advance at tickover than you should.
With a badly worn distributor you can get far less than 30+ degrees all-in by adhearing to the book figures because you've started with more advance than you bargined for.
(All figures here rough guide only)
Gully,
Early Mini engines had a plate on the bell housing you could rotate aside by slackening a bolt in order to view timing marks on the flywheel. Probably others too...
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6 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
David,
I worked in IT for 40 years, I know what a blog is, we joke, you may not have noticed.
Doug
I've noticed
; but seriously where is IT, can't find it on the map, is there a large town nearby that I would know?
David
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The Smiths drive units are as rare as you know what! Double Do'oh
. Just quoting the size.
) .
Relay amps
in Electrical System
Posted
Interesting; you're trying to protect the column switch and relay contacts because of the inductive loads. However, adding a diode across the relay and the solenoid will act to slow their disengagement.
Here's a link to an interesting application note on this from TE Connectivity:-
http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=13C3264_AppNote&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN
They recommend a Zener + diode arrangement.
David