Mad4classics
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Posts posted by Mad4classics
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Thanks Pete,
Spotted the single split pin hole now (after a bite to eat and a cupa) no split pin in it though! NOT FITTED.
Was expecting a "standard" castle nut.
My Unipart WM doesn't give a torque figure for the pinion nut, doesn't seem to differentiate between solid and collapsable spacer, just says mark and return. Intereurope manual gives 90-100; does that sound right? Is it then on to next castle nut position?
David
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OK, leaking pinion oil seal.
Spitfire Mk3 with FC numbered axle.
Got fed up with topping up the diff and mopping the floor; it's getting so it sprays a line of oil under the car.
Instead of a castle nut and split pin (or a nylock which it shouldn't be on an FC diff ?) uncovered this sort of double castle nut with no split pin and no visible hole for one. Not seen a nut like this before!
What's the best way to tackle this; still mark and return to original position? or find WM torque figure?
David
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Anyone remember the PE Scorpio ignition units? I remember building one from the article that appeared in Practical Electronics. It used an inverter to charge a capacitor which then discharged into the coil - produced a fearsome spark and the points lasted ages.
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I think its down to your personal preference.
I bought an epoxy kit sold for boat repairs to fix the mounting hole attachment points and gear lever exit which had become a bit ragged with age; plus a new sealing kit from the club shop.
David
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The StayUp floats are a good upgrade if you're after a replacment- and they're ethanol resistant and adjustable.
David
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Minispares reference catalogue is the best source of information regarding bolt sizes:-
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/AKM2.aspx
It shows all the different brake circuit arrangments. Master cylinder fittings are the place you're likely to encounter metric fittings everything else on a 1980 Mini will be UNF or UNC.
David
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Might be from SC Parts. Only say this because tubes from cylinders 2&3 go under those from 1&4. Some are opposite in that 2&3 are outside as in picture from Rimmers above, but the SC Parts one matches your configuration.
David
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Helicoil in alloy material is stronger than the original. they come in lengths that are a multiple of the diameter eg. 0.5D, 1.0D, 2.0D etc. The key is getting the insert in straight - seen Mini gearbox drain plugs helicoil (which are 5/8 UNC) done on the wonk, and it always leaks a little like that!
Having been faced with a mixture of the correct unified fasteners, unified fasteners with metric heads!! (why?); and metric fittings - I'm always keen to replace like for like and keep a selection of thread repair kits to get me out of trouble.
If you're going to buy something in, UNC and UNF kits are not expensive.
https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=22020
If you're really faced with a BIG repair the EZ LOK Inserts are available here; but they're more expensive:-
Carbon Steel:
https://www.amafasteners.co.uk/product/319-5
Stainless:
https://www.amafasteners.co.uk/product/303-5
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Auto electrical spares sell the square section rubber seals and spong sealing cord by the meter in different sizes depending on the gauge size, just cut to length as Pete indicated.
https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/bezels-glass--seals-for-smiths--lucas--jaeger-gauges-68-c.asp
David
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Is this the sort of thing you're looking for?
https://www.part-on.co.uk/category/sealed-rivet/
David
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Put the old cap back and stare at it very hard to see exactly where it's leaking.
Are you sure the new filler cap is sealing properly so that the cooling system is presurising?
Some GT6 radiators seem to have quit a deep filler neck.
David
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Not sure, but going by the OD you quote it's probably 4-40UNC.
David
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Maybe these people?
A brass radiator will usually take well to a diy repair, others not so easy. As Pete said; clean thouroughly + good flux and a high power pencil flame torch to get the job done quickly. I favour 50/50 solder for rad repairs.
If you've sprung the filler neck joint, it might be better to have a specialist repair.
David
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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
On the lever pivot pin there is a felt pad to oil/grease, bit late now its all back together but on mine I drilled and tapped the pivot pin to take a greaser as I had to hammer my pin out of the lever , it had not been lubed for 40 years
Pete
My lever pivot was fortunately free, bug the rubber seal was hard and breaking up and there was only a few wisps of the felt pad left.
Made a pad out of some thick felt; middle hole I punched but had to cut the outer edge with shears - it's sort of round.? and very well greased.
David
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After reading this thread I decided it was about time I greased up the secondary cable guides and compensator; in the process I discovered that the clevis pin joining the compensator to the lever was rusted solid so that they were moving as a pair! In operation, the relative movement between these two parts is quite small, so with the handbrake on or off, not something you really notice with a cursory glance, especially tucked up where it is.
No amount of fighting it under a car on axle stands would shift it - so I had to disconnect the secondary cable from one wheel and feed it back through the secondary cable guide and out of the compensator; disconnect the cable from the handbrake to get the argumentative pair on the bench where I could give them some “what for” with a large hammer and a punch to remove the clevis pin and separate them.
Feeding the secondary cable through the cable guide was really fun because I found the threaded straight end on my cable was just too long to go round the guide in one go; I had to fight it into a loop and feed the threaded portion though each end of the guide separately – greasy springy cable going everywhere except where I wanted it to go!
Cleaned and painted the lever and compensator and reassembled everything with new clevis pins and plenty of grease.
After adjusting things as per the WSM as Pete indicated earlier, the handbrake feels a whole lot more positive.
David
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Just a thought, not sure if they are still able to supply cellulose; but Brighton Auto Paints might be worth talking to:-
David
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8 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
if it runs it wont be very happy
condensers also buffer the coil to aid it discharge cleanly, a failing condenser can cause backfires if it discharges when you dont want it
i found a local last week where the heel had worn down so far there was no adjustment left and the points were all but closed
without a spare, remedy was to grind the end which now fouled the condenser mount and slot the adj screw hole the points faces were as flat as new so it had a brilliant condenser fitted , we need more like that .
if you get a duff one cut it open should have around 9ft of waxed insulated foil wound up inside .
Pete
The condenser and coil primary form an LC resonant circuit which produce the high energy output from the coil; you need both to work properly.
Still looking at the condensers from the Dizzy Doctor, he has them made to his own specification, with the full length of foil in them.
David
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The click adjust on different models is not the same.
The original Delco spitfire distributor is one degree per click. Always seems a bit course to me for a vernier!
Having said that the pictures first posted show a version without a vernier - so no click adjust...??
You should have 15thou clearance between the throttle lever to pin when the peddle is at rest.
If you temporarily disconnect the throttle rod, which is sping loaded, it will rule out a peddle adjustment problem.
The throttle spindle itself can get so badly worn it lets in air. SU do give a limit in the service manual. Disconnect the return spring temporarily and see if it rattles about in the main body.
It could be just down to adjustment there's a lot of levers and linkages to play with.
David
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The handbook describes a method of setting the static timing by adding a spot of paint 6mm to the left of the timing hole in the crankshaft pull ( when viewed from rear ), and aligning this spot with the pointer; which if if mine is anything to go by is pretty blunt.
From this initial point its down to advancing till it pinks then backing off till it doesn't as Pete described. I find I get a small amount of pinking with the standard 6deg advance, so I wouldn't get carried away - but engines are rarely identical.
The original advance unit Delco 7953461 had a vernier adjustment, you seem to have a replacement unit of different design. The number is on the bottom face of the vacuum unit and assuming the distributor is original the number on the body should be 7953460.
From your picture it looks as if the condenser is close enough to rub on the center shaft; you've Got to make sure there is clearance by adjusting the condenser clip. If the condenser catches the shaft it upsets the timing badly.
It's not just the condenser that's poor quality these days, the clips supplied are usually not very good and need fettling to fit.
I'm going to trying a Delco type Condenser from the Distributor Doctor next, they are supposed to be a lot better.
Rimmer Bros stock the correct length screws if you need any.
David
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Don't know isthe honest answer, but just as a comparison my 1300 spitfire engine reads 83-84 at front and back, 87-88 on the core plugs either side of the distributor. Couldn't get any sensible readings from the exhaust side!
Sump reads 65.
Just Friday got rad back from being recored at local specialist and fitted yesterday because last weekend side mounting decided to part company from top header; been eying some blocked cores through the rad cap for a while so that was the final straw.
Engine fitted with standard 82 thermostat.
David
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7 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
I have Gaz shocks from the club shop, very good, a dramatic difference. Beware Monroe which I'm told are no longer "Monroe" and made in China, old stock may be alright but how do you know it's the real thing? Same as Lucas.
Doug
Doug,
Didn't know that, I was toying with Monroe aswell. Oh well I'll have to think again.
Thanks
David
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8 hours ago, Anglefire said:
Fuses - and pretty much every protective device is IDMT - indefinite mean time - so will run indefinitely at the rates current but as the current goes up the time it takes to blow gets corresponding shorter. The better the device the more repeatable the timing.
Mall the fuse is really doing is protecting the wiring. The device will probable be knackered if it really does blow the fuse
That's absolutely right; Lucas fuses however were rated by their blow "instantly" value.
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
from on here somewhere there are two distinct types of fuses in use in the aftermarket
the normal automotive ones , glass, ceramic, blade , will run a load of 17 amps and blow at 35 so you take care of any spikes
there are some nasty glass ones ( got some in a assorted box) which have the flat bladed fuse wire inside marked as 35amp and thats all you get no protection till............ ka....boom
well something like that
Pete
There are several fuse rating standards around the world, this warning about USA standards you may have already seen.
http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/fuses.pdf
David
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Not sure I'd want to alter the dynamics of the cone clutch operation. I'll stick with dipping the clutch for a smoother shift.
Funny Pinion Nut
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Hardest part has been getting the old seal out.
New seal somewhat thinner; is it best to drive fully home or flush with face?
David
Ps. now found a new way to drain diff as no drain plug; but you get a soggy sleeve and EP90 isn't a substitute for Brylcreem! Not that I've got that much hair anymore.