AtRo Racing

My mistake. No extra ballast resistor needed. Robbie

Yesterday I told you I would look up the coil that I used. I experimented with ten coils, all with different primary resistances. i found that the FAST PS60 Ignition Coils 730-0060 that has a primary resistance of .400 ohms worked the best with the FAST 3000-0231 XR3000 Points-to-Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Universal 4-6-8 Cylinder Engines. You can see it here at: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-730-0060?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2IDA5PfU5wIVu4NaBR0nXQnHEAAYASAAEgL07PD_BwE The spark plug wires are MAGNECOR 6557 / 143-560 8.5MM KV85 CN SERIES IGNITION CABLEs from moss. You can see them here at: https://mossmotors.com/spark-plug-wire-8-5mm I have been running this system for five years with zero breakdowns. If I can be of more help then just email or text me and I will get back to you. Cheers, Robbie

Without a doubt is is much better that the XR700. It is the race version and much more precise with a hotter spark. It is now made and sold by Fast as a kit and is available from Amazon. This kit uses a light emitting diode and a shutter wheel. This produces a hotter spark than the magnetic pickup type as the light diode is rock steady when using a timing light. I installed a relay with fuse in it to turn the ignition on and off. I remove the fuse when I park the car as it will not start unless the fuse is reinstalled.here is the link to the relay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBAO1SA/?coliid=I1RBGFP0JQTR4W&colid=FO4SAH6JV3H8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it FAST 3000-0231 XR3000 Points-to-Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Universal 4-6-8 Cylinder Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCDLVG/?coliid=I16QSJAOFJJO1R&colid=HZ467702CT2W&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it It is very important to use the proper coil and resistor for this system to work. I will have to look up the coil when I get home and get back to you. I used a .4 ohm ballast resistor. With the hot coil I am using it is very important to use the proper wires, cap, and rotor. The only wires I will use are Magnacore wires firing NGK Copper Core Spark Plugs spark set at .028. The total timing is 35 DEGREES BTDC with the vacuum advance hose disconnect and plugged. As far as the rotor and cap is concerned I will only use NOS LUCAS as they fit really tight and do not wear out. Make sure that you PHASE TIME the distributor after you have installed the Fast kit and have set the timing. Just take an old distributor cap and drill a large hole just inward of the number 1 terminal. Install this cap and then shine your timing light into the hole.the rotor should line up with the caps number 1 post. If it does not align up all you need to do is move the light emitting diode bracket left or right until everything aligns up. With this system your engine should roar to life instantly! I will get you the coil specs in the morning. Cheers, Robbie AtRo Racing Products

The GT6 now runs like a scalded cat thanks to all of you who helped me out with the rocker / pushrod issue. I set the rocker clearance at .012. With the aluminum rocker cover the rockers are now very quite. I was having a clearance problem with the rocker cover mounting studs and nuts hitting the bonnet. I removed the studs and installed three 5/16-24 X 4” Hex Head Cap Bolts which sit much lower. Again, thank you to all of you, Robbie

Yes it did. Now I need to figure out what length pushrod I need. I have ordered an adjustable pushrod and I am assuming that I measure any valve when it is fully closed. Am I correct that I should back off the rocker adjusting screw and adjust the pushrod until the rocker tip is just touching the valve stem tip or do I measure the pushrod when the rocker has a .012 feeler gauge between the valve stem and the rocker arm pad? Cheers, Robbie

To all you people who helped e with the rocker issue, The shims arrived and I installed them onto the head and toured the rocker pedestals down to spec. I then marked al the valve stems with red ink and set the clearance to zero. Using the starter I cranked the engine over about five revolutions and then loosened the rockers and took out the pushrods only to find that the pattern on the valve stems all moved away from the rock shaft. Next I took the rocker shaft off of the engine and skimmed the bottom of the pedestals .050 and reassembled the rocker shaft and the rockers to the pedestals. When I reinstalled the assemble onto the head I doubled up on the Grade 8 washers under the mounting bolts and retorqued the nuts. I then went back after ten minutes and re-torqued each nut again only to find they had loosened. I did this twenty times before they all read correctly after sitting ten minutes between. Painted all the valve stems again, set the clearance at zero, and cranked it over and took the pushrods out again. This time the pattern wad dead on in the center of each valve stem. After reinstalling the pushrods I set the valves at .012 using the “Click Adjust” valve clearance tool which save a ton of time. Next I made a tool to measure the 90 degree angle of the rocker pad to the center of the rocker shaft. The engine started instantly and ran like a scalded cat. I now need to have a set of pushrods made up as some of my stock ones are bent and not strong for the street /compitition head. I can not thank you guys enough for all your help in sorting out this issue. Cheers, Robbie

Peter, The reason I used High Strength Red Locktite on the screw that holds the rocker shaft to the pedestal is that ai am not worried about removing the rockers. If they needs to be replaced then the shaft will need to be replaced also. Therefor, for me anyway, it is more important for the screw to stay in place than it is for me to ever have to remove it. I also feel that with a Socket Head Cap Screw you can torque it better than with a Phillips Flat Head Machine Screw that is very soft and easy to strip. Just my two cents. Cheers, Robbie

Make sure that the rocker shaft to pedestal locking screw is not to long. If it sticks past the end of the threads in the pedestal you will be restricting the flow of oil to the rockers. When I took mine apart the rocker and the rocker shaft and rockers were toast from lack of oil. After removing all the rockers I cut the rocker shaft just past where the screw went in only to find the locking screw to be sticking all the way down to the shaft. Therefor there was very little oil making it to the shaft and rockers. The DPO must have done this. I used a socket ahead Cap Screw and cut it off so that it just went past the threads in the rocker shaft by an 1/8”. I then used locktite on the screw so it can not back out. Cheers, Robbie

I have no idea what cam is in the car except that the power comes on from 3200-4000 rpms. Perhaps a Fast Road Cam or the next one up. When I am cruising in overdrive on the parkways at 3200 Rpms the car really pulls when ai want to pass. Parts are ordered so I will post once they have arrived and I have had time to install the shims.p which should be in the next week or so. Thanks again to all of you. Cheers, Robbie

The pattern is still like the above. I have ordered shims from RIMMER and when they come in I will measure everything. The rockers are in their correct positions as far as I can tell.

A huge thank you do all of you. I understand completely and need to order shims from RIMMER. Amazing that Moss USA does not have any. As I do have a few pushrods that are slightly bent I believe that I will be ordering adjustable pushrods once I get the rear of the head sorted. Cheers, Robbie

Thank you everyone for your thoughts in this matter. I am assuming that you check to see if the rocker is in the horizontal position with the rocker arm at its highest position. Am I correct? Would someone here please tell me what “WSM” stands fir or means? Also what are the specs for the “working range of angles from the horizontal“ for the rockers, and how do I measure them? I do not know what has been done to the engine as I am the second owner. All I know is that the car was raced at the Pikes Peak Hillclimb. This has been confirmed by many of the Pikes Peak Hillclimb competitors that I met three years ago at the Mt. Washington, New Hampshire “Climb To The Clouds” Hillclimb Race. The engine is very high compression and turns over rather slowly before it starts. Need to install a gear reduction hi torque starter before spring. Took it for a short ride last night and it ran like a scared moggie. You guys are the best and have been extremely helpful. Cheers, Robbie

Thanks. do you like the wear pattern or do I need to move it back towards the rocker shaft? It is up and running quite well and quite. Please Be kind enough to explain what you mean by WSM. When the valves are closed the rockers are horizontal. I need to order pushrods which are 8.11 or 8-1/8” long. Any suggestions? You are the best. Cheers, Robbie

Johny, I would agree with you but Moss is saying just the opposite. I have posted their directions on installing their bronze sleeved rockers and rocker shaft that they have reamed out to a .002 clearance so you can see what they are saying. I believe they are backwards. If you agree I will order shims from Rimmer as they have .010 shims but I have no idea how many I will need. I also posted the newest picture after I removed the pedestal nuts, tapped them towards the inside of the valve stems, and then re-torqued them to 26 Lb Ft. There seems to be a conflict if to if you set the valve / rocker lash at .010 COLD OR HOT. Different manuals say different things. I have done them COLD. Does everyone agree? Thank you again for all your help. Cheers, Robbie

John D., I will re-clean both the rocker pad and the valve stem and then paint just the valve stem and try again. Will post a new picture when done. Thank you for your idea, Robbie

Johny, Thank you for helping me with this issue. According to directions from Moss the pattern should be dead center on the valve top. They state that if the latter is closer to the rocker shaft then one needs to shim the rocker shaft to get the pattern centered. They state that if the pattern is like mine then see your machinist which tells me that the pedestals or the head need to be skimmed. The old rocker bores were worn off center and from what the new centered rockers are showing I am afraid that this will happen to the new ones too. If the experts here feel that the wear pattern looks good then I will re-torque everything and readjust the rocker clearance to .010 and call it a day. Thank you for your help, Robnie

Totally agree with ALAN as stated in another post. Robbie

Rodger, RIMMER makes their spacer kit out of aluminum. Robbie

I installed the External Rocker Oil Feed Kit over 50,000 miles ago on my 1972 Triumph GT6 MK 3. I installed this to quite down the noisy rocker chatter caused by lack of oil. when installing this kit I installed a “Tee” into the oil pressure sending port on my engine. I have been setting the rocker clearance at .010 COLD. I do not have any valve seals on the head. I only use Brad Penn Oil and have never had any smoke at startup or while running at any speed. The valve train is surprisingly quite. The engine uses 1/2 -3/4 of a quart of oil between oil changes which are done at 3000 miles. Perhaps the others bad experience with the External Rocker Oil Feed Kit is caused by a worn engine or the wrong grade or type of oil. just my two cents, Robbie

The problem I am having is on my 1972 GT6 MK 3. I replaced the rocker shaft and rockers with the kit offered by Moss that includes a hardened rocker shaft with 12 new rockers with bronze bushings installed. Moss claimed that the rockers have been fitted to the rocker shaft with a clearance of .002. After installing the shaft and rockers I took a black marker pen and painted the rocker pads and the valve stems with the pen. Then I turned over the engine three revolutions using a 15/16” Gearwrench combination wrench on the damper retaining bolt. Next I removed all the push rods so I could take a look at the wear pattern on the rocker pads and the valve stems. The wear pattern should be dead center on the valve tips but is halfway off center towards the intake/exhaust manifold. If the wear pattern was towards the rocker shaft side of the head then all I would need to do is to add a .010 shim to each rocker shaft pedestal. There are no spacer shims under the rocker shaft pedestals so I can not lower them to solve the problem. I also noticed that a couple of the push rods are rubbing slightly against the head. I have thought I’d reaming out the rocker pedestals mounting holes slightly larger along with matching up the oil feed port and then moving the complete assemble back towards the left side of the head. Is the kit sold my both Moss and Rimmer defective or did they both use the wrong rockers in their kit? Short of milling the bottom of the pedestals or the surface where the pedestals mount and installing different length push rods does anyone here have a solution to this issue. Thanks in advance to all of you that try to help me with this issue, Robbie

I milled down the flies on the front three inches of the cover and installed the thin silicone gasket mentioned in another post. That along with the two factory studs with jam nuts on them and a hex head cap screw on the front hole solved the problem. All parts came from Moss. Hope this helps, Robbie

Ne advised that the firing order has been listed wrong in one of my three service manuals. It was printed wrong. Do not remember whqt it is called but it has a dark blue cover.

We run the BOSCH BLUE COIL

I will tell you that Jeff from Advanced Distributors is spot on with what he has said. I have been using him for years now on all of our restorations and service jobs. Once he has rcurved and rebuilt your distributor you will never go anywhere else. The first tome I used him I thought I had put in a new engine in my Midget. Robbie