AtRo Racing

I am using the Bosch Blue coil with the internal ballast resistor. I have eliminated the ballast resistor that is located near the coil. This coil will throw a spark that is 1/2 inch long. Robbie

All the above are great fixes and happen quit often. But do not count out a bad rotor. They are famous for going bad when you are driving down the road. The best ones that I have found so far I buy from Advanced Distributors. I keep two extras in all my cars. Robnie

The best points I have found are made by URO. They are made the old way and are a beautifull thing to behold after seeing all the junk China points out there. Robbie

Great idea. It makes me crazy groping around in the dark while driving down a dark road trying to adjust the heater. Keep us posted. Robbie

I also meant to add that that our LBC do not like resistor plugs or suppression core spark plug wires. I run copper core wires with non resistor emds on all my cars. Robbie

While I agree that NGL are great plugs there is nothing wrong with Champion as long as you buy NOS. The new Champion plugs do not have the glazing on them that keeps them from fouling out. I have a 1962 stage 3 MG MIDGET MK1 that runs Champion plugs as they are the only plug that works and lasts the whole season. They are a basic copper core plug as our LBC were made to run Copper Core plugs only. If you have any doubts just call Advanced Distributors and he will concur. I buy all my Champions from your country, the UK, as the GREEN SPARK PLUG COMPANY has lots of the older style plugs. He sells all make of plugs plus a lot of other stuff too. ROBBIE

All the above is quite correct. The best one out there is Evans Waterless Coolant. As there is no water in the system you do not need to run a pressurized radiator cap. It is the steam that causes the pressure build up.

I usally set mone to open at 10 Degree F. hotter than the thermostat. Therefor seing I am running a 160 Degree F. thermostat I set the fan at 170 Degree F. Robbie

I read that the side shields were originally installed on another model Triumph car to keep the dirt and gime off of the engine. This was a side note that I saw in a publication where the engineer that made these side shields said they did nothing to cool down the car. In fact he stated that is made the car run hotter as the air had nowhere to escape and tended to end up around the air filters. He also noted that the powers to be at Triumph loved the idea of the side sills and ordered them to be installed on all model Triumphs. I ran them on my 1972 GT6 this past spring after doing a full restoration. I had installed a 160 degree thermostat. The cars temperture gauge stayed at the 6:00 o'clock mark up until summer when it was hotter. At this time the needle was creaping up to the 4:00 o'clock mark. I took off the side panels, as the cardboard ones are just anyway and lo and behold the temp gauge never went above the 6:00 o'clock mark again. The side panels are holding in the heat. I will agree that during the winter they would be helpfull in retaining emgine heat. I will therefor run these in the non summer onths only. A better idea would be to box in the radiator and fan assembly completely and duck the hot air from the radiator under the car in front of the engine. This is what we do on our NASCAR Modifieds to control the heat. I will be building one this spring to try out along with an electric fan. Robbie

For a rear shroud to be effective behind the radiator the fan blades need to be inside the rear lip of the shroud by 1 inch. You can buy electric fans that have a shroud built into them and these work really well. Robbie

If your gas cap seal still leaks after replacing it and the spring is not bound up the best fix I have found, gor my GT6 MK3, is to just glue another seal over the first one. I have tried every seal made and availble form the UK and the USA and they are not thick enough to seal the factory fuel pipe when going around courners. The above is a simple cheap fix. Robbie