petegardner_901

Hi Any advice from you lot... I wanted to replace the original rocker cover (GT6 Mark 3 1973) with a nice alloy one, but have been told that it is too risky even with a thin gasket due to hardly any clearance between cover and bonnet. Bit of a shame really but anyone any ideas? Would a re-chromed original cover look ok instead?? Thanks Pete

Thanks Pete! Pete

Hi I stripped one of the studs on the exhaust manifold that goes to the downpipe. (one of the three in triangular shape) I ended up drilling it out leaving no thread behind for a new stud so I was thinking of simply slipping a bolt through with a nut on the other end. Will it matter I am not using brass nuts...?? Thanks Pete

OMG James you are so right - I have one and never thought to use it..... doh!

Hi all. Re the distributor drive shaft I've always thought this picture is difficult to visualise - which is the larger offset - top or bottom in the pic? I can't seem to get the drive to line up exactly as in the pic either way - seems to be one tooth out when at TDC - does that matter??? P

I thang yow....

Just a quickie - I assume the two tiny gaskets (see photo) that came with the engine rebuild gasket kit fit as on the sealing block as shown...

Interesting... yes the pistons I have are County pistons and on the box it says "Made in Malaysia" AND on another sticker on the same box "Made in USA". I pointed this out to the guy who did the rebore and he told me the pistons are made in Malaysia and the rings in USA... On another note - anyone comment on this - When stripping the engine I noticed there were no locking washers on any of the main bearing or big end bearing caps. The workshop manuals all seem to think there are. I assume it's ok to put a drop of thread lock on them and tighten down without tab washers?

Hi all Any thoughts on this: I have just picked up my rebored block and reground crank. I have new pistons, end shells etc etc all ready for the rebuild. Thing is, I won't be running the engine for a while as there are a load of other things to do to the car first. Is it best to leave the rebuild until shortly before the first start up or is it ok to rebuild it and leave it in the corner of the garage - just wondering about lubrication draining away over time from areas like cam followers, shells. Thanks P

Please be patient with me as I know there have been a few posts on this - but I am still slightly confused... My question is if I am starting from scratch, how do I know which TDC number 1 is on - start of power stroke or start of inlet stroke - if the crank, cam and timing wheels have no markings and have been removed and replaced.

Thanks pete - I'm certain now it is standard size - there are no undersize markings on the shells or crank. I'm going to fit new std. rings and shells. Should the top ring be stepped - I can't feel a ridge at the top of the bore. Engine has done about 75000 miles P

How can I tell if the engine has already had a rebore - the piston crowns have "073" scribed on them - is that a standard size piston? Similarly - if the crank has been reground at some point should it be marked? Thanks P

Please someone confirm there are only TWO semi circular thrust washers - one either side of the rear main bearing - I read in two different workshop manuals that you have to remove the FOUR thrust washers.....???????????????????? I have only found two so far...!

Hi I am replacing the timing chain on the GT6 and while I was at it measured the crankshaft end float. It is .003" excess over the max. recommended. Is this significant or do I just ignore it... Pete

Hi I need some engine parts for the GT6 - timing chain, sprockets etc. Can anyone recommend the best place to go for stuff like this - I know there has been bad reports occasionally about some stuff from the main Triumph parts specialists (mentioning no names) and I myself have had some appalling quality parts. Just a bit worried about important bits like engine parts. Thanks for any help / reassurance! Pete

Wow - this is just what I need… I have completely dismantled one door - glass - locks - the lot during the rebuild and I was so scared of not getting it all back I have left the other door intact for the moment as a pattern...

Hi I am getting close to the stage of replacing the interior trim in my late Mk 3 GT6. It has "Chestnut" trim which is proving difficult to find - I can source a few bits but the actual carpet set - no. I don't really want to change the entire colour to black as I rather like the chestnut... Anybody any ideas - contacts etc where I might try? Pete

Anyone with good ideas on how to remove carbon deposits without scratching the tops of the pistons? I was told a brass wire brush in a drill is good but it leaves severe scratch marks...

GT6 Mark 3 non roto... Question about what is called the "stoneguard oil flinger" (part number 128469) that is the first item to go on the driveshaft when assembling. I have rebuilt one side with new wheel bearings but during dismantling the oil flinger is now loose on the driveshaft - what is the best way to fix this in place to stop it moving along the driveshaft as it won't stay in place over the oil seal? Also - now looked at the other side and found there is no flinger at all on this driveshaft… is it really needed? Thanks Pete

By the way - thanks for the offer to borrow the hub puller but I have one now ! so if anyone in the Guildford, Surrey area wants to borrow it let me know. Pete

I've just found exactly the same with the trunnion kits - I have nothing against Rimmer who have supplied me with loads of good stuff but I bought the rear trunnion kit from them last week - the bushes are utterly useless pieces of brittle plastic. Flange on one snapped while fitting and the whole thing fell to pieces when I removed it. To their credit Rimmer replied instantly to my complaint and refunded the cost immediately. I have now bought what I hope is a quality kit from James Paddock… I'll let you know. To be honest I do get quite sad about some of the replacement stuff out there - just not up to it - but what can you do????

Thanks all - I understand. Needn't have bought my Tesco vernier then......!

Replacing rear bearings on Non Roto GT6. The ball race bearing has to pressed on the driveshaft to a dimension given to three decimal places...! How critical is this - I have vernier calipers but 0.001 of an inch is pretty small....... Anyone done it recently have any tips? Thanks Pete

I have had the chassis of my GT6 cleaned and shot blasted... Now looking for a quote for priming, painting etc - anyone any ideas on what I might expect to be paying? Thanks Pete

Thanks John! I did think it unlikely but found both sides fibreglass when I removed them yesterday and started to have doubts....! I've just started a full restoration on my Mk 3 so please bear with me if I'm on here a few times.... Pete