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Posts posted by Casper
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Yes the cam is the same. I forget the part number but it did change. I don't have my references to hand but I think the valves are also the same.
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https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/177 - March 1995.pdf Page 28 should help you
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When did Gold Seal name for recons start - anyone know?
No, but they were certainly available for the A series as fitted to the Austin A30, produced from 1952. Doesn't mean they were available from then.
C.
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The Midget 1500 sneaks in there though, they definitely did get gold painted Gold Seal Triumph engines here for example.
Your link refers to a documented GS engine but nothing states Triumph. The swap was in 1985 by which time Triumph was no more.
But thanks for the info on 1500 MG GS availability.
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some replacements were gold (Gold Seal units?).
No. Some Standard engines and early Herald engines were gold and this paint was also used on rocker box covers for a long time So were the power units on 'Goldbelly' Ferguson tractors.
Gold Seal engines were a BMC/Unipart product (see also Silver Seal).
C.
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Jack each wheel before you start
Paul
and turn steering lock to lock as you do it, so as to mix the grease and oil
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Seat Fitting
Problems can often be found with seats that have been incorrectly refitted after being removed. There are some minor variations in detail over the models and period of production but I believe the following should apply to all variations.
Components and terminology:
Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in.
Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged one ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B.
Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged one BEHIND the other.
Fitting:
Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear, fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts, and with 1/2" spacers (thick washers) under each bolt. Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects).
The sub-frames are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door.
Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat sub-frame. This adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the seat frame bracket on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the sub-frame. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround.
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The cowl I have doesn't have any holes for fixing.
It probbably came from a Herald estate which uses thee same pressing but no badge, I think
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and someone needs to tell FBVC that sycamore isn't a native tree.
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If you set the steering wheel fully forward there will be no energy absorption available☹️
But lanky folks normally need the wheel to be at the top (max clearance from dash, i.e. extended) so as to clear knees. I can't speak for Spit/GT6 but my HeraldsVits have all been 14" semi dished, height adjusted and been fine. My son is 6' 4" with a bad back and it's fine for him.
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. . . and be aware that tjhe steering wheel position is adjustable.
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What I find confuses/befuddles those who have trouble with auto electrics is that the car body/engine/etc. is, in effect, a wire. This can then be confounded by the earch switched vs supply switched confusion. Once over all that, it's quite easy, give or take relays
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as with estates. Jack opened slightly to hold it steady
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Correct, Richee. Body colour. This Courier article should help:
https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/73 - July 1986.pdf Page 12, etc.
C.
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Wifey had a nice saphire (corrundum) nail file. Now in my 'carry it' toolkit. Available fromBoots. I believe
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I see in your later pics that it doe have pump, so not ZIC.
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Surely not PSE1 - looks like a ZIC (no pump,disc choke) to me. 28 fitted to 948s, 30 for early 1200s (both ZIC 3 and ZIC 5). Can't speak to cable attachments. though as I aint going out to the garage in this cold to check. Ford Anglia SV?
C.
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Thanks for the update/
QuoteYou do need the key numbers.
This is where keytraders score. Cliff had no code for either blank or key. Cock-ups happen but keytraders came up with the right result in the end and cliff now knows his code.
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The estate trim panel is smaller, as OP found out.
"Not a lot of people know that"
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Keep us informed
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Believe us, Keytrader are good. They can normally identify key code from a p hoto. Speak to them.
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When I lived 'over the hill' the Cranleigh Classic Car show was always a favorite, attended in numbers by both the Surrey and Thames areas. Newdigate was also fun.
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Not a Herald Estate. Gt6?
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Another ignition key question. GT6.
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Keytraders