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Casper

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Posts posted by Casper

  1. Quote

     the filler fittings are all the same 

    The 7lb has narrower lugs and the radiators narrower slots.

    It's not just about overall boiling, i.e. overheating, it's to do with controlling the nucleate boiling on the hotspots in the head passages.  I read all about it once but can't remember the fine details.

    I believe the the change with ST coincided with an improvement in the spec. of the rubber hoses, but now they are all the higher spec. and can cope with 13lb.  Tests the water pump gland, though

    C.

  2. POR-15 works for me.  I have a test piece that I did over 10 years ago and have left outside in the sun and rain.  Used it extensively on the car and the only downside I have found (apart from setting in the can - use a plastic bag over the lid before refitting) is that it is not fully UV resistant - hence finishing with chassis black sorts it out.

    c.

  3. Quote

    The manuals are very vague!

    One more time:

    Components and terminology:

    Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in. 

     Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only.  Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged one ABOVE the other.  On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B.

    Seat frame - on which seat is built.  Brackets at the front have two holes arranged one BEHIND the other. 

    Fitting:

    Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear,  fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts, and with 1/2" spacers (thick washers) under each (?rear) bolt.  Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects).

     The sub-frames are handed: you should have a pair.  They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel.  This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front).  This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door.

     Choose between the high and the low holes on the seat sub-frame.  These adjust rake and/or height (with blocks).  Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the seat frame bracket on the tunnel side.  This means that the seat sits square on the sub-frame.  The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround. 

    • Like 1
  4.  

     

    Quote

    The earlier engine was from late 1962 whilst this one is from 1967, and I'm wondering if there was any change to the block which meant bucket plugs must be used?

     

    I always understood that the change was with the 'hot cam' engine at GA178101E in Nov 1964, so expect more raw POWER.  I967 is also good as it should have the rubber rear crankshaft seal rather than the scroll of the earlier type (change at GA206771E in Jan 1966).

    C.

     

  5. Quote

    John Kipping (Triumph guru, now in NZ but his company is now Canley Classics) did a LOAD of work with different carbs, often after economy. 

    One of their favoured setups was to use a single SU 1 3/4 carb, on the dolomite inlet. Somewhere in the ether you will find the details.  

    Herewith, from another board:

    Message: 21

    Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:50:51 +1200

    From: "John Kipping" <johnkipping@******.nz>

    Subject: Re: 13/60 mild engine mods

     I wouldn't use a K & N filter, but if you do it must be fitted at the same time as all the other mods as on its own it will require a different carb needle to a paper filter. 

     13/60 cams are usually perfect, using a Spitfire III profile will help with bhp at the top end so that using revs will give a quicker car, but still retaining a decent tickover.

     Whatever set up you choose I would suggest the Dolomite 1300/1500 and Spitfire 1500 distrubutor, ie the later Lucas type, as I think the centrifugal advance curve is better.  A Spitfire III one would be OK if you can find a decent one which isn't easy.

     With the Canley exhaust manifold a 2 inch Y piece can be ordered and then a Vitesse II system fitted (full system is X21S), quiet with a shiny 2 inch outlet pipe.

     If you fit this set up with an 1 1/2 SU carb you are on your own with a needle requirement as I don't know anybody who has this.  If you can get an 1 3/4 SU (one off a 2.5 S is fine, any HIF type on a more modern car??) then use a BAF needle. The hole in the manifold needs opening up so the butterfly opens but the four mounting holes for the carb are all drilled and tapped.

     This set up will give all the power of a Spitfire III engine, the ease of a single carb, and the best overall fuel economy.

     John Kipping

    Not specifically mentioned in THIS post but, yes, a Dolomite manifold and a good quality paper air filter.  I have such a manifold tucked away and I'm keeping it until I find myself with a 1300 engine in need of work.  Not so easy to find now.

    C.

    • Thanks 1

  6.  

    Quote

    29 years worth of excellent courier magazines and their articles in pdf format, freely available to us.!  - FANTASTIC  !!  

    And Thanks

    Please,  where might I find the index ?

    Sorry.  No index.  Various efforts have been made to index it but it's a mamoth task.

    JT's contributions to the Courier included a series on the 4 cylinder (SC) engine describing its development from 803 cc  in 1953, through 948, 1200, 1300  including variants to the 1500 in 1980.

    Starting Courier 174 Dec 1994. 

    The last of the series (Courier 177 Mar 1995) included a chart showing cc, power, torque, CR, cam timing, cam lift, valve sizes and carb details.

    Very instructive 

    He also looked at the 1600 engine in Courier 108 Jun 1989

    C

    • Thanks 1
  7. Quote

     (I can't for the life of me remember what it was that adverts used to claim improved the Herald from 38bhp to 45bhp almost instantly with just a bolt-on replacement)

    I think it was 39 to 49.  I don't know about the advert but the basic difference was the 'hot' cam as used on the 12/50 and the late Spit 4 and early Mk 2 in Nov 1964 with greater lift for better torque.  Note the 12/50 manifold only gave 3 bhp.

    Quote

    The article will be 2005 ish,

    Your memory must be going Clive, it was Courier 216 Jan 1998 and 221 Nov 1998.

     

    C.

    • Thanks 1
    • Quote

      If anybody has fitted a solid-state flasher unit, replaced the 21W lamps with LED's and not had a problem; I will be very surprised.

      Be surprised! It worked fine for me. I also replaced the tell tale for LED which, being a LED only passes current in one direction.

    • C. 

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