Casper
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Posts posted by Casper
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The foremost of the three retaining fixings should be a setscrew, not a stud and bolt. Also applies to Vitesse even though the clearance issues apply only to GT6.
C.
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Welcome to Herald ownership, and the forum.
The fuel 'leak; after use is not uncommon due to 'heat sink'. Apart from that all I can add is that the pump is not OE (but you probably knew that from your research.
Factory recon engine?
C,
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I have a Vitesse pocket AND a '948 'Chip Basket' on my 1200
http://www.triumphheraldconvertible.co.uk/wordpress/chip-basket/
Apparently, they continued the 'hinges' on the bulkhead and the holes for the catch 'till the end of production
C.
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The Mk 1 chassis (early) Herald uses the same tunnel as the Spitfire.
The usual Herald on the Mk 2 'Star' chassis is not the same as a Spitfire
C.
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My early instruction included:
"If it won't start until it starts - it's electrics. If it starts but won't run, it's fuelling"
Not always true, but a decent start to diagnostics.
C.
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Original instructions for the Herald were to use 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears only as driving gears, so you would move away from static in 2nd; first was for very steep hills and hill starts only. Not much point in putting synchro on it, I suppose.
Yes, but the change to 1200 was accompanied by a big hike in the diff ratio.
I'm pretty sure my car has a 4 synhchro converted from 3 synchro by Mike Papworth
C.
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That Comm Number should relate to a saloon (DL) on a Mk 1 Chassis, made between June and July 1961. This would not allow an overdrive to be fitted.
The engine number is almost certainly a misreading/mis-stamping of a GE engine number. Looks fairly early.
C.
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The car clearly has been subject to various modifications, at least cosmetically.
If it has an OD box it cannot be on a Mk 1 chassis. Mk2 Star chassis introduced June 1962 Comm No. GA80001
1300 engine begins with GE and has (normally) a single stromberg.
Does any of thet help?
C.
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The part that failed is pretty new, certainly less than 5 years / 10,000 miles. I couldn't imagine it regularly gets that hot. Item GSC118 now tucked in pocket of every-day tool kit.
C.
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Taking a nice drive on a rural Dorset road in the lovely Dorset sunshine, SWMBO/vehicle owner in the passenger seat, 'continental' touring kit sat neatly on the racking in the garage, the usual tools in the boot, mobile phone at home. What a lovely day. Nice steady 50 mph taking in the views the instantly, NOTHING. Fortunately, a lay-by approaches and I pulled in there.
1. Fuel pump is pumping (didn't expect that to be the problem due to the instantaneous failure).
2. Flicked the points - nothing
3. Spark test to earth - power to coil
4. Spark test to earth - power on lead from coil to distributer connection
Dizzie is a 41449 (1500) type with a combined feed wire and capacitor. Beginning to think the condensor might have failed to earth.
5. Spark test to earth on points spring - nothing
The feed wire had broken between the grommet where it enters the dizzie and the connector to the points spring. It looked as if there had been localised hardening and the break was straight across. No fraying, rubbing or stray strands.
Spare feed wire/capacitor in the 'continental' touring kit, and more in the 'Dizzie Parts' drawer, both some 5 miles away. Fortunately there was sufficient slack in the cable run for me to strip the wire and twist it together. I was worried about shorting to earth but used the cable entry grommet to sleeve the twisted wire (one of the reasons the touring kit is on the shelf is that I have used the roll of insulating tape - and some other stuff- and not replaced it yet). Sorted well enough to get home running perfectly. Passed a Dolomite who would have passed us where we were broken down. They use a 41449 and might have been carrying a spare!
SWMBO not too put out as she spent 10 minutes watching the views of Corfe Castle and a pair of circling buzzards.
Must sort out the touring kit (and also sharpen the side cutter on the everyday carry tool kit).
Anyone else had this one?
C
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Back to the OP, I have never seen a straight thin ARB, and I am certain back in the early 90's I saw a trader selling NOS ARBs, which all had the twist. My memory could be playing tricks, but I have never worried about the twist. I would happily use one on my cars. So fret not.
I recall John Kipping on another forum saying "They are all like that".
Good enough for me.
C.
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LED compatible indicator relay (which audibly ticks, similar to the original) x1
I have also had good service from Classic Car LEDs, but the ticking isn't really loud enough for me.
C.
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Well 3 is a perfect number ...
Who first said that. 3 ISN'T a perfect number !
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfect_number
C.
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The three holes are for radio fitting - they are the fixing for the bottom of the cage/bracket that holds the back of the radio. Basic rule when fitted is 'don't undo the centre screw if the others aren't fitted@ as you then lose the plate. There are threads on here about radio fitting.
C.
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and it left the factory as left hand drive. Check out the Sunbeam lettering
C.
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OEM kit on my old Montego. I found one in a scrapyard and fitted it to my Vitesse (since sold). Great improvement in touchy/feely but didn't improve handbrake effectiveness. Would I do it again? Yes.
C.
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To do this properly you first need to centre the rack (which will probably require subsequent adjustment of TREs)
Full details :
https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/158 - August 1993.pdf p.27Sorry, it's https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/160 - October 1993.pdf p. 62
Everyone should have hard copy of the whole of this series.
C.
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FWIW
+1 for Rustin's Plastic Coating but be aware that it is (technically) not UV resistant and mine in the Cv has started to crack after 20 years (wish the remainder of the resto had stood up so well).
Seems we all find Humbrol brown works well.
Danish oil is in a category of 'drying' oils, like boiled linseed oil (BLO). These both soak somewhat into the wood (stabilising it) and lie on the surface to give a finish. They do not dry but react with oxygen in the air to form a polymer. A few coats may be required to build up to level the grain of the wood. While not exactly solid it will end up being pretty hard (more so than BLO due to the various additives in the formulation). Note that Rustin's Danish Oil will give a gloss finish, while Blackfriars seems to only give a semi-gloss or matte finish.
No experience with Briwax.
C.
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948 and early 1200s had a different arrangement = springs attacked to brackets at the top of the radiator
Con
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Gold Seal engines were BMC recons. The gold triumph engines were straight off the production line, Also used on Ferguson 'yellow belly' tractors
C.
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+1 for keytraders. Excellent service. not only will you get a key that works, you will get the proper key code.
C.
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The daughters Mk2 Spit engine is Ferrari Red makes it go faster!
Ferrari's colour is yellow. The red is Italian red, carried over from the days when different countries used different racing colours.
C.
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But if it's an early 1200 diff then the inner driveshafts are smaller If it is a GA with a number under 237600, GB under 57202 or FC under 120000 then it is the early thin inner shaft type. This is not a problem unless the engine has been swapped. These inner shafts may break with a 1300 engine and WILL break with a 1500 engine. It may take a while, but it will.C.
Is the Rear axle ratio the same?.
Pete
Yes
No Courier search!
in Forum Help and Suggestions
Posted
Owned by Adam Egeland-Jensen. Can't point you to the Courier. Clearly the lack of search is a legacy issue. We can't always get what we want exactly when we want it.
Google is your friend:
The Courier (Nos 302 & 303).
C