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Casper

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Posts posted by Casper

  1. Plus 1 for Ireland, North and South.

    Quote

    I ha ve heard stories of very bumpy roads South of the border in Ireland, if true I would be concerned for my low slung exhaust on the TR. 

    Perhaps Colin can confirm the state of roads over the Irish Sea.

    Some main roads are brilliant.  But after I returned from a 3 week tour with loads of NVH I was able to tighten all the body mounting bolts by about half a turn.  Ground clearance not generally an issue except the occasional hump-back bridge.

    C.

    • Thanks 1
  2. Quote

     test for movement 

    It's very difficult to test for movement as the driveshaft and UJ are under tension because they are part of the suspension (they act as part of a lower wishbone, the spring being the upper).  That's why the noise is louder on trailing/neutral throttle as the tension is released or eased. 

    Sorry, but I think they have to come off.   This is all part of the joys and tribulations of Herald ownership.  If you are new to Heralds I would set aside perhaps 2 days.  The Repair Time Schedule gives 3 hours per side (but then they were charging customers and most items can be done much quicker).  Add to that the time spent making sure the rear brakes are in fine fettle while you are at it.

    Don't be despondent.  Keep asking.  We are all with you!  It will be worth it.

    C.

    • Sad 1
  3. Quote

    That's pretty much it.  Difficult part is removing the circlips.  There are vaiations.  The first bit doesn't need the vice and it is best to use a wooden or copper faced hammer.
    From a guru on a previous message board:

    UJ Removal – The JK patented method

     The patented JK UJ removal method is the best thing since sliced bread:

     Remove all circlips - if right handed hold the halfshaft in your left hand around the mid point, and hit the outside of the separate flange (copper hammer is best) so the downward pointing UJ cup is knocked out;

    Turn the shaft through 180 degrees and again hit the outside edge of the flange to knock the other cup out (or at least they come out far enough to grab them in a vice).

    After removing said flange this leaves two exposed sticky out bits of the UJ, these can be rested across vice jaws and the copper hammer can then be aimed at the yoke on the halfshaft so the upward pointing cup pops upwards, turn through 180 and a couple of taps with the hammer and the last cup pops up and the UJ is out.

    With a bit of practice virtually any UJ can be removed in under a minute (once all the clips are out).  If a clip breaks or is very tight it is far easier to get at it by pushing the cup in very slightly once the opposing cup has been taken out.

    John Kipping                       24/6/03

    Old rusty UJs certainly need some whacking to get them out - if in doubt use a bigger hammer.

    John Kipping                       26/6/03

    . . . and then you have to pick up all the roller bearings from everywhere.

    C.

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