Casper
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Posts posted by Casper
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Clive, your cue I believe
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Well done Johny. You have got there in the end. S-T claimed that with F/R, H/L and with or without blocks there are something like 72 different positions possible.
This forum can often iron out some obscure topics.
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Now I see no reason why the sub frame cant be mounted either side of the car (so the slide lever can be either side) without any problem...
That's the point. The reason is that they are 'handed' and should be fitted as described, otherwise the direction/position of the seat will not be correct.
QuoteAll pictures I have show adjuster on tunnel side
Agreed. Not looked too far but H1200 Owners' Hanadbook shows adjuster tunnel side.
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All of mine, including the GT6 have the adjuster on the OUTSIDE ie closest to the sill.
So is the B shaped bracket nearest the tunnel? If so, the seat can't be fitted correctly, I believe.
Quote from Herald 1200 Owners' Repair Manual:
"Adjustment. A wide range of seat positions are available
Forward or Rearward. Lift the lever on the INNER [my emphasis] side of the seat, move the seat to required position , <etc>.
Height and Back-Rest angle. <blah> It will be noted that there are two locations on the seat frame and that the forward hole is utilised on the outer side of the seat frame and the rearward hole on the inner side. This ensures that the rear outer edge of the seat swings inwards as it is tilted forward and enables the door to be closed with the seat raised. <etc> "
It' not often I can out-anorak Colin. If all else fails, read the instructions!
. . .and for a big man I suggest the lower fitting. Steering wheel not less than 14" diameter, if you are thinking of a smaller wheel.
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Seat Fitting
Problems can often be found with seats that have been incorrectly refitted after being removed. There are some minor variations in detail over the models and period of production but I believe the following should apply to all variations.
Components and terminology:
Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in.
Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged one ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B.
Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged one BEHIND the other.
Fitting:
Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear, fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts, and with 1/2" spacers (thick washers) under each bolt. Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects).
The sub-frames are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door.
Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat sub-frame. This adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the seat frame bracket on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the sub-frame. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround.
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Thanks for that write-up. I often find it hard to express the feelings and emotions of simply driving my little Herald.
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Your car, your choice. Original would have been body colour (my choice). Experimental vehicles were white to show up any developing chassis cracks.
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Vague memory of the round one being something to do with an estate boot floor, bit what it does I can't think
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Instructions herewith. If you have led lights you will need the appropriate relay
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Pointing to the rear is Main, forward is Reserve
Repro decals available, for example from http://www.classicrepro.co.uk/Triumph.htm ST167 (no connection)
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Not certain about your GT6 but, strange as it may seem, the hazard system is totally separate from the indicator system, except that it feeds the same indicator lights. The switch cuts out or reconnects the indicator system as required. It must be this way, because the hazards can be used with the ignition off, but the indicator's can't. Try following your wiring diagram to see if you can work it out.
Although I knew this before, I am reminded because I have just spent over a week fumbling about behind the dash replacing both with electronic and leds. I launched on this project when the alternator voltage regulator failed and sent excess voltage to the (solid state) instrument voltage regulator leading to clouds of smoke from behind the dash. And one of the front indicator units had a bad contact due to rust, so wouldn't work after the bulb was removed .... and ... the contacts on the number plate lamp broke off ... and ...
... but it's sorted now.
BTW, my water pump still has a 5 1/4" pulley. Thanks KevinR for extending my knowledge on this point. Might have something to do with the failure
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My 1200 (lookalike Spitfire) engine is happy at 65 - 70 all day. Gets a bit wearing on the ears though, so I choose A roads over motorways for journeys. JD might have some comment about harmonics or something at 4000.
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Yes, the same basic engine was used from Standard Vanguard and experimental TRx through to TR4
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_wet_liner_inline-four_engine
but for technical differences, see:
https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/45923-ferguson-tractor-engines/
Standard 8s, 10s and some early Heralds had the whole engine painted in tractor gold. NOT to be confused with BMC 'Gold Seal' engines which were factory reconditioned engines.
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I really don't think I have ever seen a "flat" thin ARB. They are always bent, and in the same way. That surely cannot be coincidence?
I recall a similar discussion on another site and John Kipping contributed : "They are all like that".
Good enough for me.
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19 hours ago, classiclife said:
Secondly, does anyone know of any kind of rubber or plastic repair paint which can coat cables to repair damage to the existing sheathing (caused by scotch locks
It exists at a price:
EDIT - This stuff is suggested on an electronics forum and is cheaper: https://tinyurl.com/y8abg635
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A person who makes or repairs something badly or clumsily/Bodgers were highly skilled itinerant wood-turners, who worked in the beech woods of the Chiltern Hills.
The reason that the term is used for someone who does a bad job is that Bodgers never finished the job. They didn't make the chairs, they just turned the legs and stretchers.
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So now wondering if it was a pretty releas/prototype vehicle? Do any details of these vehicles exist anywhere? Paul
Dave Pearson at Canley is the man for prototype vehicles
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Assuming it's a 2 litre, yes
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Seat Fitting
Problems can often be found with seats that have been incorrectly refitted after being removed. There are some minor variations in detail over the models and period of production but I believe the following should apply to all variations.
Components and terminology:
Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in.
Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged one ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B.
Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged one BEHIND the other.
Fitting:
Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear, fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts, and with 1/2" spacers (thick washers) under each bolt. Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects).
The sub-frames are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door.
Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat sub-frame. This adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the seat frame bracket on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the sub-frame. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround.
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They stick to the rearward face of the A-post, located so as to close the gap between the A-post and the front of the door, so as to prevent drips running down.
Perhaps someone will offer a photo
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and welcome. We like pictures.
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51 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Mk2 had the very nifty black pancake filters, no box. However: Fitting a box may help, if you can find one with the correct spacing for the carbs, or else make one.
I'm not sure you are right, Colin. My Herald has a Mk 2 Spit manifold/carbs and airbox. Mk 1, however - I think that originally had open pancakes, and perhaps changed to airbox. The spacing is different on a Mk 3.
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Any Help?
This is a schematic to add hazards to cars which didn't have them fitted.
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took me about 7 hours in total by myself to remove & replace the diff.
The Triumph Repair Schedule gives 4.2 hours to "Replace Hypoid unit", but I'm sure my time would be nearer Mat's time.
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Vitesse/Herald Radio Fitting
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Radiomobile fitting instructions were covered in the Courier 223. Also covers aerial fitting. If you want to PM me with your email then I can send a copy. It won't find you a radio mount, but it may help the thought processes. And you will learn about the three screws at the front of the coin tray (unless you have a replacement trans tunnel). Somewhere, I have a template for the speaker housing if you get that far.
Bill was looking at this when Rarebit was up and running, but I don't think it happened. Shouldn't be difficult to do. Club shop? if anyone's monitoring.
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