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Clive

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Posts posted by Clive

  1. Bought an Eezibleed

    in Braking System

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Steve P said:

    As mentioned it has a Vitesse master so larger than the spares that came with it,glad it was only £20. Might try and improvise somehow.

    So after reading the instructions, it just pumps fluid with air from a tyre and constantly tops up from the bottle with fresh fluid in?. So topping up the MC not needed?.

    S

    That is correct.

    Is yours an all alloy MC? 

  3. Bought an Eezibleed

    in Braking System

    Posted

    19 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

    Thanks. Wow, thats quick. Will give a go

    Don't use a stopwatch, I am only guessing! 

    What I have found is that using some clear tubing and a bit of copper tube in the end to weigh it down is helpful. For some reason the bleed tube is always curly and never seems to hang in the right place. I think my tube is washer tubing, pushed into some 1/4" fuel pipe at the nipple end, and about a foot of copper brake pipe at the other. 4 of those and an easy job, or do 1 or 2 at a time. 

  4. Bought an Eezibleed

    in Braking System

    Posted

    25 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

    Never tried that Clive. How long does it take, if say, changing the fluid. I guess you would have to hang around to chec the MC level doesn't get too low and to keep topping up?  

    10 mins? I don't open them up very much and yes, you need to keep an eye on the MC level. 

  5. Bought an Eezibleed

    in Braking System

    Posted

    15 minutes ago, Steve P said:

    Bought an Eezibleed after a recommendation,i have been struggling to bleed my Heralds rebuilt braking on my own and...the cap options don`t include one to fit mine.

    (Vitesse Master cylinder).Anyone need an Eezibleed for their non Triumph?.

    S

    I may have a suitable lid (oe lids) amongst my stuff. What type do you need?

    But I should add that I usually just open the bleed nipples (with tube attached to all 4) and let them bleed by gravity.

  7. To Resist(or) or not to Resist.......

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    52 minutes ago, Gully said:

    In Peter Truman's first diagram, I'm confused by the 12v 1.5 ohm coil after the ballast resistor - would have thought it would be 6v 1.5 ohm?

    Thanks,

    Gully

    I think the manufacturer is saying it is for a 12V car that also has a ballast resistor. All very confusing, but maybe a lot of people don't understand the 6v coil thing?

  8. Trimph Herald 13/60 Chassis and Body Colour.

    in My Triumph Restoration Project

    Posted

    51 minutes ago, Richeee said:

    Wondering how others have approched this?

     

    On my vitesse I primed , stonechipped and topcpoated the chassis and underside. It was finished in body colour, all cellulose. 

    My spitfire, far more recent, I etched, 2k primer and only the underside was stonechipped. Then 2k black for chassis and underside. And inside the car, so when yoiu get a gap in trim/carpet you don't notice!

    The dolomite I have just about finished just had localised repairs. I used aerosol etch, brush painted some 2k topcoat (the stuff I bought first which would not shine at all) and then a good coat of Dinitrol hard wax, which is brilliant stuff. 

    • Thanks 1

  9. trunnion oiling, greasing and inspection. and now trunnion v trunnionless ??

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    I have no idea about the top ball joints being greasable, they were always sealed for life. But I guess teh old fashioned greasable idea appeals to a lot of classic owners. And h=can do no harm.

    As to teh trunnionless VLs, they are what Caterham have been using fort years. Stronger than the original trunnion type, with excellent longevity despite requiring virtually zero maintenance. I can attest to all that, I have squirted WD40 on a few times in the 30+ thousand miles and they are as good as gold. I am no engineer, but I can see a good idea when I see it. Especially when it has OEM origins. 

    • Thanks 1

  11. Lidl battery charger

    in Tools

    Posted

    41 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:

    Been in local Lidl today, battery charger, 12V Oil Pump, impact wrench both mains and battery with battery and charger included.

    Use my impact wrench quite a bit on the car and with an adaptor for hex drive bits installing longer screws in timber.

    Regards

    Paul.

     

     

    51a5aJLZIdL._AC_UL320_.jpg

    Blimey, how bag are the screws???? I have a lidl impact wrench, it is pretty beefy. In fact I often use my little impact driver for stuff as it is so much easier to use. Nips stuff up nicely, but not proper tight. 

    But that lidle wrench is a godsend. The only downside is less exercise. 

  12. which is quicker better drive vitesse or herald with 1500 spitfire engine

    in General

    Posted

    29 minutes ago, johny said:

    Dont think engine longevity is too important these days😂

    You say that, but I was averaging a 1500 engine a year in my Toledo. Failures at some good places, Goodwood pit straight, the Prodrive test track (STAR90) and another on the way to the start of the RBRR, but to be fair that was a pants oil filter theat blew off at 70ish. Fitting a (100K)TR7 engine sorted that for about 5 years until that got too tired. 

    The ford engine in my spitfire was fitted as I just know it is tricky to build a long-lived triumph engine capable of good power (175+bhp). The ford engine had 110kish on it, stripped, light hone and new rings and bearings, though the bearings had very little wear, I probably should have kept them. That egine has done well over 30K in the spitfire now, and despite breathing a bit at 7000rpm, has been good as gold. Lots of life in it. 

    Sorry, waffling on. If driven sensibley, the 1500 will last well with regular quality oil changes and no thrashing. The 1600 will last better, but for many people you are right, it is a moot point.

  16. GT6 MK3 (Aug1973) Recommendations For Head Work Needed.

    in Engine

    Posted

    Is the cylinder head brand new? 

    But you shoudl be able to source good spares, though you will need to do your research. Bear in mind if you supply all the bits, the builder will not warrant any of them. 

    So maybe have a word with Chris Witor, he tends to only sell good stuff, and will be able to offer advice. As to cam, something like a mk2 GT6 cam is a very good all rounder. Chris does a special cam based on that, again he can advise. 

    • Like 1

  21. Dropped a stainless washer

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    Is it a thin washer? Small or a penny type?

    And is teh inside of the bellhousing a bit oily? 

    If so I would expect the washer to just stick to the bellhousing. There is surpringingly little clearance between teh flywheel and bellhousing, but if the flywheel turns ok I wouldn't worry too much. 

  23. My diff is bleeding!

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Just now, Pete Lewis said:

     

    there aagin i would never drop the whole diff   thats just unwanted work  .

    Pete

    Pah, I did a diff change on spit in under 2 hrs the day I was doing the RBRR back in 2008. I had nightmares, thinking that as the diff needed topping up every 500 miles or so, and I was doing 2000, I may as well change the diff to the known leakfree/good one I had. I was done by 8.30am.

    Saying that, swingspring is easier. And I was younger....

  24. My diff is bleeding!

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Paul Amey said:

    Right, thank you. I think I will strip everything out of the back end and replace the spring as well.  I'll be on to the shop for that tool. Thanks again.

    I would borrow one, or make one. However, from what others have said, you won't be needing it.

    If your spring is sitting at teh correct height, I would simply wire brush it, grease and reassemble. Getting a correctly made spring seems to be a lottery. So many are too high or low. 

  25. Garaged parts dilemma

    in General

    Posted

    8 hours ago, JohnD said:

    So THAT's where all the parts have got to that you just can't get any more!   😃

    That is a fair point. I keep stumbling on stuff I have had for years and forgotten about., Vandervell big end bearings, some Glaciers too. Good used but genuine arb links, and stacks of brackets, lower wishbones, some body panels (how did I forget about those?) and some stuff I have even had to buy, only to later discover in teh back of a cupboard. 

    Of course, should I mention my big clearout 10 years ago when I moved house. I did try to give away loads of parts that eventually went to the tip. Including about 15 very good herald/vitesse rear light assemblies. But nobody wanted them, even for nowt.

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