Clive
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Posts posted by Clive
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29 minutes ago, Paul Amey said:
ok, I got all that up to undo prop. What are swingsprings and spring lifter please?
Swingspring is a later design of spring used on later spit/gt6, and is flatter. So easier to work with.
A spring lifter is used as some cars (certainly rotoflex, and I am unsure about mk1 vit/heralds) have a very arched spring that is still under tension when the car is jacked up, so teh spring lifter is used to well, lift the end of teh spring so it can be undone. It is a length of bar with a couple of U brackets. I make one with a lenth of scaffold pole and some exhaust clamps, but have since made a copy as per the farctory WSM. The club sells them
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Rear up in teh air, properly supported on axle stands.
Drop the exhaust, undo prop.
This next bit depends.... my experience is mainly with swingsprings. With those, I can undo teh 4 (in your case 6) studs on top of the diff and all stays in place. Then undo the diff to drivesghaft bolts. You may need to takle it slightly differently, maybe use a spring lifter??
Some cars have a single ong rear diff bolt, I use a ring spanner on teh nut, and a couple of extension bars so I can undo teh bolt from outside the car. It may require a UJ socket or a "wobble bar" to help alignment. Some cars, and I think Vitesse is one, use 2 smaller bolts at the rear of the diff. You should just get it all free and nuts off. Now a decent trolly jack under the diff, some tie the diff to the TJ, but if you have a good sized one you should be OK (I have never tied one) Remove the rear bolt/s, undo the front mounts and flick off the washer and rubber disc. Now lower the jack a bit, you may need a bar to "ease" the diff free, dropping it nose-down and with some wiggling and again a bar the rear mounts will slide out. Job done.
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40 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said:
A year later and it happened again! Written quote of £211, After one 10 min. phone call ........down to £160 !!! (AA for my CR-Z)
Used the comparison sites as a carrot. (or stick, depending on which side you are
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What a con for those who auto renew.............. over 25% !
Conversly my modern insurance with Aviva went up under a pound. The comparison sites came up with best quotes about 30% more for equivelent cover (incluing european use etc) or a mere 20% if I was happy to pay extra to take the car into europe. So I just renewed.... but that is the first time in at least 15 years I haven't had to change insurance company to get a decent price.
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It may be an idea to sell off some stuff, I know it is difficult to part with stuff but at somepoint you realise you cannot keep everything.
I speak from current experience. I am stuggling to work in my garage. I look around, think what I can get rid of, and teh result is a small box of stuff. I need to get ruthless, clutter sucks the joy out of owning the cars
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17 minutes ago, daverclasper said:
Depending on eyesight and delicacy/coordination, can just the pip be filed off?
Yep, you used to be able to buy neat little files to do just that. Or spend an extra few minutes and take the points out, run a file over them and refit.
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Just now, Steve P said:
Ford ST170 with Subaru diff and CV shafts iirc?.
S
Yep. Difficult to break. I have tried.
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11 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
114mph in a Spitfire 😱
I assume the engine is not as it was when the car left the factory 🤔
Nope. it has a ford engine, and that has been bulletproof since fitted.
It will happily cruise at 110mph if you can afford the fuel (the gauge seems to visibly move) and the rest of the car has been built to match. However, it is very much a jack of all trades, master of none. So it handles pretty well, has fairly good gearing (longer would be good on trips, shorter on track) and so on. But I will never willingly part with it.
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Spitfire has done about 7K tis year. Mainly clocked up in longer trips. Scotland, Le mans, 10CR. I think only 2 track days, and 1 nav rally. Must try harder on that front.
No idea on overall MPG, some will be single figure (trackdays) but did get high 30's on motorway sections on holidays. Highest speed reached 114mph, on a German autobahn after I took the wrong turnoff and had to catch the rest of our group.
No real brakdowns to report. An exhaust hanger broke, used about 2L of oil all together, and my AFR controller had a hissy fit. Tyres all replaced this year too.
Next year I ought to attend to a few rust bubbles that are growing on the front wings. And fit the new doorcards that have been sitting next to the fridge for 2 years.
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17 hours ago, KevinR said:
As far as I can see, there is nothing wrong on the Forum side.
Any failure to receive notifications is on the user side.
Usually caused by over aggressive email filtering by the users email provider.
Check your spam filter settings with your email account, you will probably find the spam folder full of notifications that never arrived.
To ensure that notifications get through, add the email address they come from into the email "white list".
We had an issue with some email providers (BTconnect in particular) who filtered out any invision emails before being delivered. Virgin went through a phase as well. But at the moment all is OK. It may depend who this website is "bundled" with by invision.
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Yep, I have never owned a dwell meter, always just set the gap
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There are a lot of 3/4" master cylinders out there from Landrover suppliers. But really they are too large a bore for Triumphs. The original size os 5/8" (or 0.625") although some sell tye 3/4 size as an "upgrade", which it isn't.
If you wish to look for them, they are part number STC500100 and range from VERY cheap (£12) up to proper OEM (£120ish)
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14 hours ago, KevDavies said:
Nothing on the website as yet unless I'm missing something?
Did you not get an email? I did on 13/12 at 14.16 with the booking form.
Call the office if not.
Gneral public booking opens in teh new year.
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Is that the long one? as opposed to the corners?
As to the graveyard, I recently bought a rear spring and radius arms from them. Very pleased with the stuff and the service. Happily recommend.
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40 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Yes, getting it out through the inside is OK but it's a two man job because of the awkward lifting and manoeuvring. As Josef say, putting it back in is more awkward but with the long studs trick and a helper it's not too bad.
I have done it loads of times alone. Even the T9, which is hefty with the iron bellhousing. That is when I started using teh long stud sliders. I had the gearboix in and out 5 times in a couple of weeks as some clutch release stuff I bought was faulty. And I didn't suspect the new stuff until I applied some Sherlock logic.
If the GT6 box is non OD, they are a doddle, quite light.
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47 minutes ago, Kevin Atkins said:
Thanks for all of the replies. I have done some study and looked at the YouTube videos you recommended and I've decided I'm going to have a go at rebuilding the gearbox myself. I was going to have to pull the gearbox anyway, and that bit looks like it might be awkward but the box build itself doesn't look too bad (famous last words..) What's the consensus on getting the box out? Where I live we have a shared parking lot, and pulling the engine and box out may get in the way of my neighbours, so pulling the box out from inside the car would be preferable if it's not ridiculously difficult?
From inside is OK. Passenger seat out, H frame, tunnel out. Undo the prop (will need at least one rear wheel off the ground). The rest is rear mount, speedo cable, slave cylinder, starter motor. Then jack under the rear of the sump and lift so the tail is above the prop tunnel, bellhousing bolts and then it should slide right off.
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https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/-classic-/classic-magnolia
still available from "smiths"
I rememebr they were being touted around a while ago, I think the club may have sold them?
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36 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:
Have had several gearboxes apart including the one currently in the Vitesse in which I had to replace third gear and the cluster, no special tools needed except a length of rod to hold the cluster needles in place. Do not use grease to hold bits in place on reassembly, petroleum jelly, Vasolene, is the stuff to use.
Told some restorers grind down the main shaft tip and fit sleeve or fit oversized input shaft bearing weakening an already weak part, maybe just a tale.
Regards
Paul
My friend has a GT6 box in his spitfire. Apart from doing a cut and shut on the input shafts (to get correct ends and length) he also machined the mainshaft and made a brass bearing to replace the tip bearing.
125K miles later all is well, no noises, leaks or anything. However, it is a mk3 spitfire and he goes not drive it hard.
For the vast majority of owners who do not drive their cars hard and/or long distances, machining the tip will give many years of service. I expect not very different to a new mainshaft? It is the old question, if DIYing is the extra outlay worthwhile? If so, and the car will be "used" it would be worth spending a bit more and going to an 18mm tip setup.
The other issue is that teh rest of the internals are now largely shagged to a greater or lesser degree, and new stuff is not easy to find. Unless you have a stack of used boxes to strip for parts until you find a set of very good internals.
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3 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:
Just to qualify by pin do you mean the actual Layshaft itself or the multiple needle bearings in each end?
The metal "rod" that goes through through the layshaft. They seem to get very scored up. Especially in teh 2L cars.
A mate does a lot of gearboxes (OK, 10 or so a year) and the pin is the bit which most often is an issue. OD boxes seem to suffer more too.
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Nicechoice of car.
Your gearbox issue is likely to be layshaft pin worn. Very common.
Bad news, I am uncertain if anybody sells "exchange" gearboxes, most recondition your unit.
Mike papworth has a good reputation, but a long lead time. Pete Cox gearboxes is another good company.
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I have used pertronix (often rebadged as Aldon) and the £40 off ebay by stealth/accuspark. Not had any issues at all with any.
You do need to check timing after fitting (which takes about 10 mins)
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23 minutes ago, DanielH said:
This ring is shot: no gap at all!
The other 2 rings have a 0,03in+ gap. The grooves feel also quite sharp.
Fortunately I've still got the original (non-OD) gearbox of the car, I guess I will pick one or two good rings from it.
What do you say?
The wise gearbox builders often use good secondhand synchros. And swap them about, first and second, and 3rd and 4th. You can use some fine abrasive to remove the shine from cone surface and then feel teh synchros to see which works best on each cone.
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14 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
If you check the Members tab there are 3967 have forum membership. Many have only posted once or twice, but this doesn't mean they aren't watching. If I check the Online Users tab I often see people who haven't posted for years.
Doug
Ah, but many of those will not be TSSC members.
That is teh problem, unless somebody can compare the database of names. Even there many will not have used their real name on here to register.
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And a word ofwarning. There was something on the news about a batch of diesel heaters being seized.
It seems mainly down to terrible installation instructions. So be careful what you buy!
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10 minutes ago, Neil Clark said:
How fortunate! Lovely looking car. I have an MGB GT as well as a Spitfire. B's are notoriously subject to squeal with modern pads and discs and the 3M anti squeal shims are usually excellent. Also an MG Owners Club member has discovered that thick self adhesive tape correctly located has the same effect as the shims but I've not tried that. Thirdly, another member has opted for Peugeot 806 anti squeal shims shown. The legs fit inside the calliper apparently. He says it has been perfectly quiet since. Now that I've got onto this topic I expect that mine will start squealing too:(
The old fashioned solution to squealing brakes was a bit of fag packet smeared both sides with copper grease. Cornflake packet would probably work too
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Garaged parts dilemma
in General
Posted
In the UK we don't have to worry about such stuff.