Adrian Saunders
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Posts posted by Adrian Saunders
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On 8/15/2018 at 4:15 PM, JumpingFrog said:
The stock routing is definitely not ideal, it doesn't take much for petrol to boil - especially European ethanol blends. After breaking down on the autobahn we replaced the rigid line with r9 running under the engine along the steering rack and back up to the carb.
This still wasn't enough, so in Iran (40c+ in the desert, dry heat) we had an electric fuel pump fitted to minimise heat in the petrol before the carb.
Before we left I did some thermal imaging shots, you can see the amount of heat around the cylinder head, not an ideal place for a fuel pipe to run. The water pump housing is also pretty hot.
All this said, on my other Herald I've never had a problem. The single SU seems more prone than a Stromberg. A carb heat shield definitely helps.
Been meaning to ask for ages. How did you create these thermal images?
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Guys, I’ve sketched up the brackets, onto the CAD drawing of the channel. Would any of you be able to verify my measurements? I’ve attached pictures of the drawing and sketch.
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Great. This should be reliable then. My pvc outer extends from the switch, through the lever and terminates at the gearbox switch. There’s another layer too, heatproofing, from lever exit to the box switch.
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Still working on this but, the MGBGT channel is looking hopeful. I’ve modelled the GT6 channel in CAD and I’ll check with sheet metal workers on feasibility. Meanwhile, I’ll remove the brackets from my knackered channel and temp fix them to the MG channel.
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Not impressed with the connectors on the looms available from the usual so I made my own. Aforementioned connectors offered next to no retention. I made my own loom using Japanese bullet connectors which fitted perfectly into the round recesses of the switch and, using a blade to open the connector a few thou to aid push-on, the retention on the switch is perfect too. I bent the ends a tad which helps to guide the wires u/neath the switch and into the lever. The whole lot runs through 1/4” pvc sleeving which goes through the lever and does a splendid job of protecting the wires.
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On 8/14/2018 at 11:23 PM, dougbgt6 said:
I agree with Pete, use R9 all the way between pump and carbs. Works for me. Don't agree with NonMember, why's it got to be riged?
db
Where can I get R9 hose from? I couldn’t find it on the tssc site, but I’m not a member, yet. There’s lots of hits on Google but there’s also talk of it not actually being R9.
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On 7/27/2018 at 9:00 AM, Pete Lewis said:
i keep finding if i reply on my silly tablet it doesnt post the answers,.......... lost in space ???
i agree there will be a sudden change of erratic running progressively gets worse as the diaphragm fails further,changes in piston heights is not conclusive and
can vary for other reasons , if you get spares make sure they are reputable and nice and flimsy not made from recycled elephant condoms
some are ridiculously tough and wont flex properly
pete
Indeed. I had a pair of dye-her-frams that wouldn’t allow the pistons to return!
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2 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
We'd be interested to know how you get on.
Doug
Modifying a Spitfire channel isn’t practical, it’s just too different. In the picture, left to right: GT6 N/S, MGBGT, GT6 O/S (knackered) and Spitfire. The MG channel is slightly larger and that’s a GT6 rubber in it. If MG glass is the same thickness, this could be an easy mod. The channel is on a smaller rad but I can change that. It’s the channel that’s the clever bit, if anyone has any other similar ones, let me know.
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I have a spitfire channel. I will try to mod it to make it work.
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On 8/15/2018 at 2:25 PM, Pete Lewis said:
why not use what every 70/ 80s used ............... nylon pipe with simple self grippy connector , bet Richards Alpine has them
i love the way we keep doing things the hard way ???
pete
Metal certainly looks better.
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On 8/14/2018 at 7:25 AM, Pete Lewis said:
My box of fittings all the sleeve nuts have aprox 13mm of thread and the end is turned to the relief shown in you left nut
The dangers of a full thread is in some applications the nut will bottom out thread bound and not clamp the tube
The relief is there to ensure this doesnt happen certailly if used on brake pipework..
Pete
I could only engage two threads with the relieved nut so I went with non-relieved.
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5 hours ago, dave.vitesse said:
Metal is normally used for long runs of fuel pipe. The reason given is safety as it's more resilient. Please don't shoot the messenger!
Dave
No friendly fire here Dave. Valid point mate. Thanks.
Mine has copper at the moment, that’ll remain until the winter, then I’ll change for CuNi.
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I shall leave it as metal for now.
Is there a mechanical pump out there upon which the outlet doesn’t Point at the dizzy?
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Anybody know how the drain tube fits to the GT6 mk3 fuel filler. I only have a boss (on the left in picture) with a plain, thru hole. Am I missing a fitting of sorts, perhaps a pressed-in steel tube? I have a rubber elbow (with nylon tube) for the breather to push onto the barbed fitting on the right, which is screwed in.
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If I can get this reproduced, is anyone interested? I can model it in Inventor (3D CAD) and get them made.
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Is it beneficial to re-route the pipe from pump to carbs? Is it better to sheath the pipe with something reflective and heat-proof. All suggestions etc very welcome.
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Now then, which nut? The one with the non-threaded section at the end doesn’t work for me, too few threads engaged. But that’s the one that came in the kit. The other, longer one, does, more threads engaged and the same as the one in the fuel pump.
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All done with one of these.
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Guys, job done, can’t thank you enough. Tube fitted tonight, few tweeks to angles and some mat’l removed, ready for final fit tomorrow night and finally, tank and tubes in for good.
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Ready for final fitting tomorrow.
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CuNi test piece. Spot on. Only required one quarter turn after nipping to seat the olive, and I cannot twist it. Thanks to everyone, problem solved.
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Thanks Pete.
Ordered, delivery hopefully Friday, worst case Monday.
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Can anyone beat £22 for 2.5 m of 5/16” Kunifer?
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Hmm. Indeed. It’s C106 copper which is 99.9% copper according to many suppliers. Can you bend Kunifer with a hand-held tool? I have this one.
GT6 body mounts
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Please will someone tell me the correct arrangement for all of the various rubber and aluminum washers used between the body and chassis on a GT6. Canley’s website suggests only the aluminium washer at the inner front outrigger pos’n but, if I do that, the strengthening bracket floor to sill, will touch the top face of the outrigger.