Adrian Saunders
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Posts posted by Adrian Saunders
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I’m struggling to get the glass to not rock back and forth when fill up. Can GT6 owners check how stable the glass is at full extent. Thanks.
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On 9/6/2018 at 10:10 PM, Nick Jones said:
I think that's a really good idea. Assume you have the front of the main exhaust section supported just behind the flexi? Have you also got a steady bracket for the forward section - off the bell housing bolts perhaps? Would probably be the final touch if not.
Have contemplated similar on mine but the fat Toyota 5 speed I have fitted means the exhaust takes a slightly different line and there is less space available.
Nick
Hi Nick, ILOC 15050 is 71 mm o/d.
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I’m going to change mine to: bell housing, off diff front mount and off rear valance.
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Guys, just came across this on a plumbing website forum, possible answer to the loose olive:
“You push a bit of pipe into a fitting, tighten the nut, compress the olive on the pipe, then expect the olive to seal in it's seat. It can't because it's already in as far as it can go. Now you have to cut off the pipe below the olive so that next time you tighten the nut there is room to draw the two mating faces together. What you do next time is push the pipe in, then withdraw it a few millimetres before you tighten the nut.”
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9 hours ago, JohnD said:
Well done! I'm amazed you got such thickly insulated wire up the stalk. The hole was so narrow that Triumph used wires "insulated" with varnish, which always eventually shorted out. I got so fed up (and too lazy to fit a steering column switch) that I put a switch on the steering wheel, on a length of 'curly-whirly' cable, al la flappy-paddle gear changers. See pic.
John
John, also, I’m guessing your car's somewhat non-std.
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3 hours ago, rlubikey said:
Nice job Adrian and a neat adaption of those bullet connectors. Automotive cable will also have a higher temperature rating (105'C) than standard "household flex" (70'C or 85'C) as I discovered when my OD shorted out one day having melted inside the gear stick! For my replacement, instead of 2-core flex, I used high temp (tri-rated - also 105'C) wires and an outer sleeve of high temperature glass fibre reinforced silicone tube. The sort of stuff used to protect cables in cookers and such like and good for 175'C. It all fitted in the gear stick
Cheers, Richard
Richard, tri-rated is the same as what we use at work for panel building etc. But that isn’t thin-wall insulation, how did you get it through? Did you reduce the csa? Also, please advise what and where from for that silicone tube. It sounds marvellous.
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My small x member mount. Is this an original position? One side of the U bolt goes through an angle which bolts to the chassis x member and there’s a rubber between the angle / x member.
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Scope for bell housing mount?
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49 minutes ago, JohnD said:
Well done! I'm amazed you got such thickly insulated wire up the stalk. The hole was so narrow that Triumph used wires "insulated" with varnish, which always eventually shorted out. I got so fed up (and too lazy to fit a steering column switch) that I put a switch on the steering wheel, on a length of 'curly-whirly' cable, al la flappy-paddle gear changers. See pic.
John
John, it was easy, once I found out that automotive cable has much thinner insulation than any other type. I used some 1/4” od pvc sleeve, not shrink-wrap, which goes through the 1/4” hole in the stick, and allows the cables to move slightly. As I had a mk2 before and knew how good the column switch was I wanted that too so, I have both on mine, wired in series. There’s an access hole in the tunnel to access the connections at the inhibitor-switch so if the lever switch or wiring fails I can quickly change the wiring and run column only.
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2 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Rob,
OK I'll let you off.
My bracket goes to the gearbox, or should there be another one?
Doug
I’ve got one to the tiny x-member under the rear of the ‘box.
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This ought to fix it!
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
Adrian,
I put a new stainless exhaust on last year, this summer the exhaust started banging on the centre chassis rails. The centre box has about 1/4" clearance on either side. Slackening off and resetting sorted it, but for how long? A flexible piece in the down pipe might be the answer or will it make it worse? I'm monitoring your progress with interest!
Doug
Doug, I have (car came with) a rear box only but, the pipe is close to the chassis. Rather than have several clamped joints I welded as much as possible but allowed for disassembly and maint. Also, it is a bit loud so I’ve introduced an easily removable baffle into the tailpipe. Theory is: fire up, don’t annoy my wife and neighbours, drive about a mile to the rear of the NEC, remove one screw and the baffle, make a splendid noise all the way to Kings Norton.
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Hi Paul, could you post some pics: both carb sets; manifold with carb on, errant linkages etc.
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Thanks Nick. The pipe is supported just after the joint, at the original position off the chassis, adjacent to the rear of the gearbox. I haven’t added a support forward of the joint but I could, it’ll be clamped to the tube rather than welded,initially, and then welded once proven. I used an ILOC 15050 joint which I welded the clamp extensions onto. If I remember correctly, you can’t get the 150 long x 50 bore joint with extensions. The ends of the joint are swaged-on/aluminised mild steel, but I cleaned off the Al coating and used Argoshield to MIG weld the mild to the stainless tube with stainless wire. I’ll get you the O/D of the joint tomorrow, don’t think my wife would be too happy if I get it tonight.
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I’ve noticed a comment regarding tubular manifolds, that the 3to1 collector is actually a slip joint and the perils of this. I introduced my own flexi joint (axial and radial flex capable) under the gearbox of my GT6 as it did indeed all look a bit too rigid. Has anyone else tried one of these on the road? My car’s still work-in-progress.
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Thanks Pete. The loom is looped and it moves between gears extremely well. There’s a length of 1/4” pvc sleeve added which runs all through the lever and sticks out by about 10 mm. You can see it in the earlier pictures. The cups are dry, I’ll grease them tonight.
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How have you guys routed the switch wires? I have mine coming through the tunnel hole at about 7 o’clock, right next to the U nut. I’ve got some shorter ones arriving tomorrow which will be fine but, just wondering if I’ve gone a different way.
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17 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said:
Hey guys, where should the drop-glass finish, relative to the top of the 1/4 light.
I can get mine as high as this before the radius on the top of the glass contacts the 1/4 light frame.
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Hey guys, where should the drop-glass finish, relative to the top of the 1/4 light.
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I’ve tacked my “new” channel together and fitted and it works! It’s the one on the left. A small amount of tweaking and final welding to do. Notice along the back edge of the drop-glass, the edge that ends up parallel to the B post upper and the other more angled edge that’s just protruding out of the door. The latter, is the only part of the glass that runs in the channel/felt! See the wear-marks on the glass.
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Guys, I’ve sketched up the brackets, onto the CAD drawing of the channel. Would any of you be able to verify my measurements? I’ve attached pictures of the drawing and sketch.
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Still working on this but, the MGBGT channel is looking hopeful. I’ve modelled the GT6 channel in CAD and I’ll check with sheet metal workers on feasibility. Meanwhile, I’ll remove the brackets from my knackered channel and temp fix them to the MG channel.
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I’ve started a new thread on this as it seems feasible, but I might need your assistance. The MGBGT channel’s bend is only 3 to 4 mm different, when the parts are meshed, see picture. I measured them, did some CAD, and that measured 3.8 mm, see CAD screen shot. I’ve tried the MG channel with a GT6 rubber inside it on the glass, it fitted and slid along it easiily, the compliance in the rubber helping I’m sure. I’ll need to get new brackets made in slightly thicker mat’l as I can’t do them thin with bent sides as per original, anyone help there?
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49 minutes ago, rlubikey said:
Hi Adrian. I don't know the answer to your question, except I believe you add the rubber ones until the body's straight & the gaps are right! Hopefully someone more learned will be along soon to confirm or correct me.
But I was talking to someone in the restoration business (David Picton) about the rubber washers and he commented that the ones available today just squash to nothing in no time. The originals, he says, had a fabric reinforcement so they tended to retained their shape under compression. If this is true then it occurred to me that reinforced rubber tubing - you know, the stuff with a fabric webbing to improve the pressure rating - slit open and cut into suitably sized washers might be a better bet ... if it happened to be the right thickness.
Cheers, Richard
Richard, thanks. I remember now years ago (when I was 19) on my mk2 GT6, the rubbers being reinforced. It’s called insertion rubber, I’ll get some off Amazon and make some more as required.
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No 6 cylinder appears to be running weaker
in Fuel System
Posted
Dave, I found that an electronic ignition conversion engineered out one of the variables, the good old points. My idle was transformed to even and consistent and gave me confidence in that setup so as then be able to look elsewhere. Try electronic, even if you go back to points, you’ll learn.
Also, the pipe-in-the-mouth-of-the-carb to set the flow can be surprisingly accurate, set the balance too. If you’re local to Chelmsley Wood/South Birmingham, I can lend you a proper, graduated air-flow meter and a timing light. Let me know.