[Fuel tank / pipe compression fitting]

I was supplied top left, I switched to bottom left as that was what was on the short section out of the fuel pump. They collapse into the pipe which yields to the olive to, but is still loose. 

[Fuel tank / pipe compression fitting]

Hi Classiclife, I tested with a tightened nut, from nipped to (probably) over tightened. Olives: I’ve tried two types, stepped that were in the kit and barrel that I swapped to after discovering a barrel type at the fuel pump. Def 5/16”, not 8 mm. After tightening I experience the loose olive. 

[Fuel tank / pipe compression fitting]

Anyone know the torque for the nut? I tested a small section tonight and from nipped through to  (probably) over-tight, the olive doesn’t feel right. There are perfect looking, concentric, all around areas on the olive where it’s been compressed into the tube but, it just isn’t tight. It will turn a few degrees clock/anti-clockwise, though not all around. Should it remain tight even after disassembly? 

PS: If there’s products out there now that are suitable for sealing faces, great, I’ll use them. But, will they work with a loose olive? Sounds like something Popeye would say! 

[Fuel tank / pipe compression fitting]

Hi Adrian, no, 5/16” (not 8 mm) tank outlet size. Compression fittings only require the metal parts and never ptfe tape to seal. Please don’t use ptfe tape on compression fittings, it shouldn’t be used. They are designed to be used as is. Strip down and remove the ptfe tape, if it leaks without, there’s something wrong. Correct ASAP. 

[Fuel tank / pipe compression fitting]

Has anyone experienced difficulty in getting the olive to grip properly onto copper tubing? I’ve tried two types of olive and neither are secure. When the pipe is removed, the olive will move slightly when twisted by fingers. Don’t get me wrong, it wouldn’t pull off but, it just doesn’t feel right. 

[GT6 mk3 fuel pipe route from pump and back to tank]

Almost there, need to change the straight inlet stub on the fuel pump to a bent one to improve the pipe from filter to pump. 

[GT6 mk3: Wiring loom route from top of rear arch to rear lights.]

I assumed that the dimmer allowed some voltage direct to earth via a resistor because, mine is disconnected but the rear lights still work. Only two wires are joined together, the green/purples, across a 10A fuse. 

[Non-iso 2K Paint - oh dear!]

Whatever the dark stuff was, it can be removed with a toothpick or similar. 

[GT6 mk3: Wiring loom route from top of rear arch to rear lights.]

Thanks chaps. 

[GT6 mk3: Wiring loom route from top of rear arch to rear lights.]

Thanks Mat. That’s the route I was going to take, including the lower / bottom cable clip. I’ve added some  aluminium P clips at three of the lamp to body fixings, to take the strain off the push-on connectors and edge protection at the apertures where the loom goes through, I’ll post some pic’s later. My night dim relay came with spire-nuts to fasten it to the inner wing (yours doesn’t have them) I assume it goes in the space between the inner & outer, a rather awkward position? Very Triumph. 

 

[GT6 mk3: Wiring loom route from top of rear arch to rear lights.]

GT6 mk3. Please will someone post pictures of the loom route from the top of the arch, backwards, to the rear lights. If you have the night dimming relay, that too please. 

Thanks folks. 

[Non-iso 2K Paint - oh dear!]

Hmmmm. Painted car with non-iso 2K. Got these appearing. Look like volcanoes. The black in the middle is not an external contaminant, it is produced by the paint  

 

[GT6 mk3 fuel pipe route from pump and back to tank]

Thanks bloke. I prefer that route. Not much room left through that outrigger anyway. 

[GT6 mk3 fuel pipe route from pump and back to tank]

Please will someone post a picture of the route of the pipe from fuel pump back/down to the chassis. Does it go through the outrigger or between the bulkhead and the chassis? 

[GT6 mk3 fuel pipe - SORTED - made one.]

Can someone post a picture of the fuel pipe route from tank outlet to the first clip on the side of the chassis, forward of the rear axle. In my picture, I’ve circled the floor hole and the first chassis clip, I’m ok with that bit, it’s the around/under/over? the driveshaft bit that I need guidance on. Also, will a Canley Classics cv conversion require a different route? I’ve added pic off Google, is the tank to first clip ahead of the axle a separate section? 

[GT6 door check strap brackets]

It’s a double-skinned area and the brackets are spot welded to the inner skin only! 

[GT6 door check strap brackets]

I need to remove the check-strap brackets from a door shell but I cannot see how they’re attached. I cleaned the area on the outside of the shell back to bare metal expecting to uncover some spot-welds, but there’s no evidence of any and inside doesn’t reveal anything either! Was this Triumph’s move towards bonding, long before anyone else? I wish. Would someone please advise where the welds are. The tiny dark patch @ 3 o’clock looks like one but, it’s over the manufacturing location hole in the bracket. 

Cleaned propely on the inside revealed all four of them! But they don’t show on the outside. Great. 

Thanks. 

[GT6 Off Side Door Drop Glass Rear Channel]

Thanks Colin, will do. I’ve seen his lower, moving ones. 

[GT6 Off Side Door Drop Glass Rear Channel]

Hi all, I’m I need of a door drop glass channel for GT6 mk3, off side. The vertical channel, adjacent to the handle/latch. Or, if anyone’s adapted others to suit, please advise. Thanks. 

[Door seal flange at top of door]

The gap between the seal flange and the door is parallel and about 3/4” all around until you get to the top (front and rear) of the door, where the plastic covering is/should be, here it is much closer. Is this correct? Can anyone post some pictures, maybe with a rule across the gaps too? Is there more than one type of seal (size) to the door seals? Apart from the strip on the rear of the screen pillar. 

[Test overdrive with prop-shaft disconnected?]

That’s Friday afternoons job sorted then. 

Thanks. 

[Gearbox with D type od - oil spec?]

And it turns out that the oil I bought from a motor factor in Marston Green is GL5. Save my box chaps. Again, thanks. 

[Test overdrive with prop-shaft disconnected?]

Can I successfully test the overdrive with the prop-shaft disconnected? Will I see an increase in mph on the speedometer? 

[Gearbox with D type od - oil spec?]

Thanks Pete. I too have only ever seen, and used the ones as per the handbook. Always good to check I think (measure twice, cut once)! 

 

[Gearbox with D type od - oil spec?]

46 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

 no idea where that idea comes from  ..........there is no special,  ..........      there is  just whats specified 

this is for the whole triumph range  EP90  GL4  spec. for gearboxes and diffs

lots of comments around and on here about alternatives and more modern stuff that may suit 

you will find EP80/90 GL4   more available

the GL5  thats about can eat bronze  and non ferous bushes and baulk rings, copper thrusts  etc.    in arduous  transmisions

if you browse specs for laycock overdrives  A D and J they are designed to use engine oil,, in mots instances the triumph gearbox design wont last without an EP oil , so there was an agreement to use the EP90 GL4  product as its common to the gearbox and OD which have a common oil supply

pete

I read it here, in the indented note, on page 2.303 of the W/shop manual.