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It depends on how sensibly the spring is specified. The sensible option is a weak spring that needs compressing to fit. In that case, the stroke mostly governs the flow and has little effect on pressure. If the spring is stronger but its rest length is the same as the fitted length, then a shorter stroke makes much more difference to the pressure for the reason johny gives.
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Hi Stephen,
38 minutes ago, Stephen T said:I have quite a selection the latest and newest favourite being Moss
Parts catalogues are great but the one book you really need is the reprinted official Triumph/BL workshop manual. It tells you how to do things, and is more accurate than Mr Haynes or his competitors.
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Yes, Iain, but what Mjit is saying is to fit the toothed wheel onto the engine side of the pulley. You need a wheel with a big hole, obviously.
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25 minutes ago, Tipidave said:
diagnosis… the gear stick provided with the box is not correct. It has a spring mechanism to lift to reverse rather than press. And should not be part of this set up
That assertion is incorrect. The spring acts between the circlip on the gearstick and the grey ball that sits in the cup in the remote. It resists you pushing the stick down, and is correct for a 3-rail.
TBH, there's no way you'd be able to fit a single-rail stick to a 3-rail box without some serious hackery.
However, as Josef just beat me to saying, your existing gearstick should work fine.
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12 hours ago, Josef said:
Ah, that’ll be cause you have a knob from a single rail box (FH will be 3 rail 4 synchro with reverse as described by Colin and Dan)
He said reverse is marked "left of second". The single rail puts it next to third. The big saloon box has it next to fourth. I don't think any Triumphs had reverse by second, but many other makes also fitted overdrives with similar gear knobs, so there's bound to be one with it there.
11 hours ago, Tipidave said:Thanks for the info… with the gearstick removed I can move the third rail and engage reverse in position as described. However with the gear stick on I cannot move the lever far enough to the left. Does this mean I must adjust the lever that acts on the gear selection rails via the shift rod?
There's a stop at the bottom of the gearstick, so you have to push the lever down to clear that before you can move it left. If the bolt that operates the block has been fitted wrongly, or even if the bolt attaching the gearstick to the shaft is in backwards, then it can prevent proper operation.
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Is it weeping from the pipe or the fitting? If the latter, it may only need a new fibre washer.
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2 hours ago, Mathew said:
Had one made at Bailey in huntingdon . For the pumaspit. Not cheap at 300 inc the vat, and that was 4 years ago!
I'm surprised! I had a new one made for my GT6 this year, by Bailey Morris in St Neots, for half that.
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8 minutes ago, clive said:
I think a vitesse non od prop is the correct length.
I think that's correct for a 3-rail with overdrive in a Herald but it's not quite right for a single rail. You'll probably find the sliding spline has just enough range to accommodate it but it's not ideal.
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Some events are organised centrally, some by individual areas. Most (but not all) get notified either here or on the book of farce., or in the Courier if organised in good time. There's talk of Cambridge area doing a re-run of the NC850 (North and West Scotland - I missed the last one as I was on holiday... in Scotland... in a Triumph) but we're not always that organised in terms of knowing what we're doing when until a few weeks before. I don't know about European runs, though I'm sure the Nachtritt will run again
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4 hours ago, Mathew said:
Norfolk meet is every 2nd monday of the month.
Or if it's easier, Cambridge meet on the 1st Monday of the month.
(You'd be very welcome at both, if you are so inclined)
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16 minutes ago, johny said:
In the first pic the inner gasket is wrong and it looks like the spacer needs rotating by 180º while in the second its installed correctly just both the gaskets are wrong. However in neither can you see what the second carb has....
Are you sure?
To me it looks like the first picture shows the carb having a bleed hole to the bottom right, which is where the notch in the spacer is, which would be correct. I know it's shown the other way up in the parts catalogue but parts catalogues often show things in the wrong orientation or position. However, it looks to me that the flange on the manifold is too narrow for that notch. I'd like to see a photo of the manifold without the spacer.
The second photo, with the carb fitted, shows a square manifold flange. That makes it the other carb.
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Clive is correct but if you find that his method gets you to 14 degrees and that makes it impossible to start when cold then back it off until that problem goes away.
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Dont know as it shows as being the correct insulator for all mk3 GT6
It is correct for Mk3 GT6 as they have the CDSE carbs with the air bleed. However, that manifold in the picture looks like a Mk2 manifold with flanges that are too small for the CDSE carbs. Unless that's a trick of the photo, in which case the correct gaskets might fix it.
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That's the wrong spacer for that manifold. You need the one without that extra cutout. As it stands it is creating an air leak and that's almost certainly the cause of your problems.
(This may suggest you have a mismatch between manifold and carbs, of course)
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Increasing revs when you push down the piston, like the revs falling when you lift them, indicates that the mixture is too lean. If that's the case with the needle fully rich, then it suggests either the fuel level in the float chambers is too low or there's an air leak into the manifold.
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They change the "vacuum" across the range but only increase air flow at full flow. It's the change in pre-throttle depression ("vacuum") that throws the fuelling off.
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13 minutes ago, foshi said:
better to start on choke drive the car push the choke in as soon as the car will run with out it less engine wear that way .
I'm not sure it's less wear that way but it certainly causes less trouble. If you let it warm up at idle then it takes a long time and cokes up the cylinders. If you drive with full choke for longer than you need to then you can get bore washing (petrol dilutes the oil) and significantly increased wear. So the "start up and drive off" method is best, but try not to drive it too hard until the oil is warmed up a bit.
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13 minutes ago, Pettifordo said:
then swapped the LED bulb for a classic one and it all came to life
Did you have LEDs in both oil and brake, or just one?
If both, I'm not completely surprised they didn't work as I discovered the LED sidelights on my Vitesse do nothing if the battery is down to 9V (as it was when low on charge and running the headlights). There's no real reason for an internal one to be like that - it's a result of having several LEDs in series, I think - but it could be the case.
If only one, I'd have expected the LED one to work but the filament one not to. They're in series and the LED won't draw enough current to heat up the filament one.
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With a trolley jack, I go with the same recommendation as @clive
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
take the pedal effort at 50lb then the pedal ratio is around 5:1 thats 250 lb at the pushrod i could gauge up the hydraulics but im not going there
The cylinder bore is 5/8", so the piston area is Pi*(5/16)^2 = 0.3 square inches. So 250lb gives about 815psi
50lb pedal effort is quite mild, though.
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2 hours ago, Pettifordo said:
So should I put a jumper wire across this to make the circuit
Across what? Don't put a jumper across the stray connector. As I said in another thread, you need the brake warning bulb in place, or you can put a jumper across that, for the oil light to work. But if you put a jumper across the brake warning light then you need to tape up that stray connector as it will be live.
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39 minutes ago, AlanT said:
This is the wire that’s in series with oil pressure on late Spits
No, not in series. The bulb is in series but the stray connector is a branch off the side of that.
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37 minutes ago, AlanT said:
The oil and PDWA lights are linked, I believe. If you’ve gone single system (as looks like it) without a PDWA then the circuit isn’t complete.
Only "incomplete" in the sense that it doesn't have a PDWA to signal brake failure. The bulbs are in series and will both illuminate when the oil pressure warning is on, as was the original behaviour.
If @Pettifordodoesn't want the brake warning light then it can simply be bypassed (connect the two wires together) to get the single circuit brakes condition.
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Note also that the reservoir return seal is held closed mostly by that hydraulic pressure. The only thing closing it before that is the wavy washer, part 3 in the diagram. The operating rod, part 5, serves to open it when the pedal is fully released.
How best to flush out a gearbox/ overdrive
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Nice shiny gears are great for if you're going to be working on the box, but if you're betting on it being OK as is and just fitting it, then I'd go with clive's advice.