AlanT

Should just point out that before attempting the starter motor method, disconnect the coil! Don’t want the engine to start!

The engine is sweet so it will just be changing seals not the chain.

They must have been massive! I’ll probably use the trick that the Morris Minor owners club taught me. Big adjustable or the right socket on, extended by bar to sit under the chassis, turn the starter. A couple of goes frees it.

It’s definitely had the jab! slightly short celebration as the is an oil leak from the timing cover. Not looking forward to finding a way to remove the big nut!

IMG_1427.MOV

That’s odd. Says uploaded and play fine for me.

66343421844__37DDD1DD-02BB-4EFA-BF83-3F0CA0DE18F9.MOV

Sorry to be predictable but after 5 years work it’s super exciting to have a running car! Thanks to everyone who has helped along the way. First time for 20 years that I believe the car has run! IMG_1427.MOV

Success! We have fuel. Once again courtesy of Roger sending me the part. The old pump was done. Not running yet as I flattened the battery. And doubtless there will be loads of fiddling about to get it going! Thanks everyone.

Thanks. The clamps are good so I’ll look to remove a shim.

Hi All, Out of interest, what is an acceptable amount of backlash at the steering wheel? My resto has about 10mm. Would like to know before I start looking at the shims. UV joint and balljoints are new. Thanks Alan

Thanks. It’s HE so should be good. Will look again at the head. Alan

Thanks Pete, Josef. You’re right about availability. Roger, who sent me a great radiator, has once again rescued me. Very thankful. Interesting to hear the engine may have been NA/Canada. When I stripped it it had a standard crank and shells, no measurable wear! I’ve changed the shells anyway. It’s running HS4 Carbs. Is the compression different vs UK engines? Or just the carbs and emissions stuff they put on NA cars? Thanks Alan

Answering my own question…think I’ve botched. The block number is FM98902 which is the later type I believe! Better call them tomorrow

Think we have the issue then Pete. And now I’m worried! When I bought the car it had a dud 1300 Dolomite engine it it. I put the pump onto the 1500 engine. Ive no idea what year the engine actually is and have ordered the up to ‘79 pump from here. How would I tell if, in fact, I need the later pump? https://www.angclassiccarparts.co.uk/products/triumph-5981/spitfire/fuel-system

If you do go for a full resto, my top tips are: Dave at the Spitfire Graveyard is your best friend. His stuff is tested, solid. Some others are not so thorough. Don’t buy pattern panels. They simply don’t fit vs original. Especially sills. I know. Had to cut off and go original for decent gaps. Secondhand panels do come up for expensive, hidden, stuff like inner front wheel arches. Again, ask Dave. Forum members are terrific help and also help with secondhand parts Get a big gas bottle for your welder, takes more welding than anticipated. Go slow and enjoy it.

Hi All, thought I’d share the realities of a total rebuild vs sorting a running car that needs bodywork. The new stuff I’ve had to buy (believe me I’ve tried not too!) includes. 3 part sills and closing panels floor, both sides inner and outer wings, front and back Headlamp support plate bonnet tubes headlights and mountings side light base plates a post uppers secondhand doors and bootlid secondhand engine and gearbox repairs to engine, luckily just slightly bigger thrust washers Entire brake system, nothing repairable Entire clutch system Entire fuel system and secondhand tank Windscreen frame gutters Windscreen steering rack All bushes All rubbers Entire suspension including secondhand uprights, front and back Wheels and tyres. Reveneered dashboard Entire interior (still stuff to buy) seatbelts Secondhand rear bumper Alternator Distributor Loads of small electrical bits Masses of new nuts and bolts Secondhand front grill. Secondhand window regulator Secondhand radiator Secondhand rear lights New glove boxes Hundreds of hours of cutting, welding and swearing Respray (I stripped to bare metal but got a pro to paint) Now just awaiting new fuel pump to get it started. Mad, I realise, but quite enjoyed it. My previous resto projects have all been runners that needed bodywork. So much easier. Anything that’s been left for 20 years really is scrap. My advice would be pay a few more £ at outset as it will be cheaper overall.

Hi John, I turned the engine over on the battery for 2 mins, made sure the fuel lines are clear, fuel available. No action from the pump. It’s been stood 20 years outside and, based on the rest of the car, won’t have faired well. I’ve gone mechanical again since I want the car as near original spec as possible (bar the slot mags, exhaust and earlier ‘Triumph’ number plate light). Alan

I’ve ordered a new pump. This one is gone. It’s original so perhaps I was optimistic!

Hi Josef, Ahead of you! Was my first thought so put 1.5 gallons in. Almost certainly an ancient pump issue. Thanks Alan

Thanks John, Colin, The tank is a clean secondhand replacement, all fuel lines are new. Probably the pump then. Will take it off and look at it again! Must do a list of the parts I’ve replaced on this car. Pretty much everything bar chassis and diff! Alan

Hello, Finally trying to start my Spit after 5 years resto, 20 since it last ran. Can’t get fuel through. It’s possible the pump is dud (how do I check?) or is priming required somehow? Thanks Alan

Now I know why my projects end up being total rebuilds!

Looks like a great resto at the price. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/705053957055831/

Thanks. I’ll take a look at Park.