AlanT
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Everything posted by AlanT
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Thanks Both, I agree. By ear is best. The chain isn’t rattling and looked ok when I changed the seals last week so my guess is it’s the new dizzy that’s a bit out.
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I pondered one of these but went with a secondhand original type a member kindly donated. No fuss with adjustments.
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Yes, you’re right. The pic had it just sat in position. I need to drill out the original rivets before bolting in
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Thanks. Seems unlikely as the distributor is new. I’ll check with a light
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Oil leaks solved! It was the wooden wedges that had gone. Who would believe it that wood works so well as a seal!
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Hi All, I set my resto up at 10 degrees before TDC as per this label…but it runs far better at 16 degrees. Is this because the fuel has changed so much since the ‘70s? I’m assuming Spits are no different to any other classics in that it’s just a case of ‘what runs best is right?’ Thanks Alan
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Like this Josef. Now I’ve worked it out…
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Ignore this! I’m an idiot. Had them the wrong way around. Cycled 50 odd miles this AM and am plainly not thinking straight!
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Hi All, Has anyone else got these metal cowls fitted? I can’t work out how! Appreciate a steer. Even if it’s to say you shouldn’t have bought them on eBay! Thanks Alan
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Thanks Unkel. Very useful to see the positions.
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Thanks Mathew. I’ll trim down and bond some fixings to the floor. Don’t want to weld now it’s painted.
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Thanks so much. Your pic and explanation is a great help.
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All I say Colin is that ‘I want one!’
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Very jealous of your lift! Car is looking great
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Ah, thanks. There are no fixings on my car. Oddly enough, the boot floor was about the only non rusty panel, so it must have been changed. Does the panel sit at an angle then? Bottom sitting advanced of the top?
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Hi All, Am I being stupid? The boot panel appears too tall? Where does the bottom screw into? thanks Alan
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Thanks Pete, Josef, I’ve sorted all the wiring so the buckles and the dashboard light work so would like it to all work. will try your suggestions. A modern equivalent may be the thing!
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Hi All, just stripped down the passenger seat on my Spit and it’s missing the seat belt light pressure switch. I can’t see that these are available from Rimmer. Has anyone been able to source them? Thanks Alan
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Josef, you’re right. I’d assumed they are rubber. Thanks for the pointer. I’ll order new when I get the gasket. Happily I’ve already got the timing chains seal + gasket so the unexpected fix gives me chance to swap in new anyway.
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The book suggests replacing these rubber end blocks but can’t see that they are available so will just surface with sealant
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Colin, you’re spot on. I’d reassembled without adding sealant! Teach me not to read the manual (aside from torque settings). The leak is more of a flow than drip when there’s no seal. All off but need to get new sump gasket. thanks Alan
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Well it’s stripped down and I think the problem is actually of my own making! I stripped the bottom end of the engine whilst it was out to check the bearings and replace the shells. The leak appears to be from the front main bearing block that sits at the front of the sump. Does anyone know if it’s possible to remove this with the engine in situ? Looks like it may be possible. I really don’t want to take the engine out again! Appreciate advice. Thanks
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Yes, the corded type felt like the right way to go. I hate throwing tools because batteries are gone/can’t replace so tend to go for corded.
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Impact wrench bought. Brilliant! Four presses of the trigger and it’s off. Wish I’d bought one years ago. Would have saved all manner of bust tools, skinned knuckles! Car didn’t budge even an inch (but I had it well secured)
