johny
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Posts posted by johny
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really recommend the 165/80 size as for me they give a great balance of steering weight, noise and footprint. Also drop the revs by a useful amount (I dont have overdrive) but these days theres limited choice as the main users used to be vans and caravans but things have moved on.....
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With the title on this thread its going to be a long painful search to find in the future.....
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Ive got minilites of the same size on my Vitesse and the studs which I believe are the same as yours have been fine with no modification. Of course I have used the correct wheel nuts for the wheels and these protrude well into the holes so that theres plenty of thread to screw onto the original studs.....
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might I suggest a smear of electrical contact grease on the copper disc. Bit difficult to source such a small quantity (might try an electrical repair shop) but will help maintain a good connection and stop squeak
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Dan it sounds like youre really going to have to clamp the hoses to narrow down the cause of the problem. You dont have to have hose clamps as Im sure mole grips or g clamps could be used with some round steel bar to do the job without damaging the hoses (assuming of course that their not the steel braided type)...
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yes I read that but I doubt youve got repro callipers and it could be expensive to change them and find no improvement. At least not having a servo reduces the possibilities but on balance I would think the MC is more likely to be the cause and its a certainly cheaper to change. I paid about 12pounds incl delivery for a Land Rover 3/4" (slight increase in bore diameter but with a smaller reservoir than the original) unit and am very pleased with the result.
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3 hours ago, Danwedges said:
I'd rather go refurbished girling calipers as the pedal feel isn't as I'd like and seems to stiffen up if you press it twice even tho the brakes have been bled and have no air in the system
Trouble is that symptom could be caused by the master cylinder or possibly the servo. How about clamping the calliper hoses one at a time and then both together to see how much difference you get at the pedal?
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If its the pads, Ive got small pin pads fitted to my earlier large pin callipers (theres far more choice of pads for Ford M16 callipers) by drilling the pad holes out a little larger. Very easy to do as the backing metal is soft and they work perfectly....
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Are you sure you want to change a calliper? The braking should work fine with the existing ones as I take there was no problem with them apart from the noises. How about just a clean and lube with copperslip....
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Yes the gear lever circlip that retains the reverse press down spring should be included in the kit:
Let us know how you get on as that way we all learn?
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you could have a look inside the box while youve got the remote off (might as well remove the whole top cover) although you will need a replacement gasket. This would really just be out of interest as theres nothing you can do other than check for wear in the operating fingers, missing teeth on the gears and maybe the amount of axial free play of the gears on the mainshaft but if the gearbox runs smooth and quiet Id leave it alone.
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Hi I would guess these are different problems. The reverse spring is associated with the ball assembly at the base of the lever and should be pretty easy to rectify possibly even without taking off the tunnel (it could be a broken spring or the locating circlip).
Jumping out of gear is more serious as this is probably due to broken springs in the remote housing that press plungers into the operating rods to stop them moving once a gear has been selected however this means that the gearbox internals shouldnt need dismantling....
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Ive been quite happy with the cheapy pumps available as the bearings have never failed (and certainly never the shaft) so its always been the seals that start to leak. This is usually after leaving the engine unturned for an extended period so I suspect they stick to the impellor and then are damaged on first start up. Perhaps this is where the original bronze impellors would be better....
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Hi, definitely could be low oil but also could be the OD clutch itself slipping. Its hydraulically operated with its own pump (using the gearbox oil which is why no antifriction additives must be used), pressure relief valve and gauze filter producing pressure to engage the clutch. The slip could be due to worn friction surfaces, dirty filter, malfunctioning prv etc and when the load reduces it drives again.
Lets hope topping up the oil does the trick as otherwise, at the very least, you'll have to remove the gearbox cover to check some of these items.
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I agree Clive and after taking a few gearboxes apart Im paranoid about remaining in third any longer than I have to! Luckily my engine is running so sweet (at the moment) that I can go down to 1100rpm in 4th and still pull away without pinking?
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Well at least we're all agreed on what Steve's Vitesse should have had from new! Be interesting to see how he gets on with the replacement diff and what serial number the old unit had.....
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Hi Paul, I run 165/80 13 tyres which make a surprising difference to wheel diameter and dont hit 70mph very often so my engine is doing around 3500revs which seems to suit it quite well
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Dont entirely agree there Nick, maybe the Mk2 Vitesse with a bit more power can pull a higher ratio but in my Mk1 I find the 3.89 pretty good. It depends on your driving style and roads I suppose but for me 60 - 70mph is enough and its not mechanical but wind noise (plus handling) that limits me more and thats in a fixed head! True first gear could be taller but I love the acceleration in the other gears and then using 4th for everything else.....
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I dont know where youre getting your info from Steve but it was definitely:
Mk 1 and 2 Vitesse 2000 (both with or without OD) = 3.89:1
As you say theres often many different opinions so trying stuff out is the only way to know and yes is all part of the fun! Dont worry though if you dont like the 3.27 unit it'll be easy enough to sell.....
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On 03/10/2018 at 22:31, 68vitesse said:
So unless I'm confused.
113797 used in three rail three and four syncro box and can be replaced with 148409
150328 used in later three rail four syncro box, fitted to GT6Ill and early Dolomite 1850 and used in all single rail boxes.
Regards
Paul
Hi Darren, it means what Paul put here although to be entirely correct Spitfires, logically, also used the 150328 in their 3 rail 4 synchro boxes at around the same time as the GT6 III and Dolly 1850 before all models went over to single rails....
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even more interesting as the 3.27 ratio was never used in the Vitesse which had a standard of 3.89. Your ratio was only used in the lighter GT6 and then only if it didnt have overdrive so its the rarest of the ratios. Is your engine standard?
I still have the original diff in my non overdrive Vitesse which I like but would consider going to a 3.63 only if I can go up the steepest main roads without having to drop a gear (I think doing this too often would rapidly finish off my gearbox!)
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12 hours ago, Mk3Spitfire said:
I did look at the club shop, but the ones on there were between £2k and £3k which just seems a little steep to me.
I do wonder what went wrong. The more I think about it, I think its probably closer to 500 miles than a thousand. This was probably 4 years ago now though, so not worth me challenging. What would cause a valve to sheer off like that? It was literally a few minutes after pulling off, and certainly not under heavy use. If I had been able to pull over sooner the damage would probably have been less, but it was on a terrible stretch of road.
Did you have new valves installed? I come from a heavy engineering background and one thing we always consider when planning to overhaul machinery is the risk of actually making things worse! Any new component used can be faulty and, in this case, the valve could have had a manufacturing defect that caused it to fail. Another possibility is that an error is made in the installation work such as leaving too tight a tolerance between valve and guide so that in operation it seizes however here I wouldnt have expected the valve to break.....
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On 16/09/2018 at 21:54, Steve Brown said:
Hi Gav,
Thanks for this detailed advice.
After a long hot summer and a couple of other projects I finally found some time and patience to swap the diff on my Vitesse this weekend.
In summary I followed your instructions word for word and it worked like a breeze, no spring lifters required, and no movement of the spring.
Called in a couple of favours and borrowed 2 additional trolley jacks (including a heavy weight one for the diff) just to add a bit of additional safety under the chassis, see photo. The larger lifting plate on the heavy weight trolley jack was ideal for holding the diff at the required angle when re-installing, in fact I got it spot on and it went straight in (more by luck than judgement !!)
To confirm, if you can remove it, removing the exhaust on a Vitesse certainly aids with access.
An additional tip I came up with was to strap a crow bar on the radius arm to lift the drive shafts up and away from the diff, giving me more room to drop and replace the unit.
Just need to tidy up the diff paint and take it for a test drive, had the cup of tea ?
Couple of photos below
Thanks to you and everyone for their advice and comments !!
Steve
Hi Steve, looks like you might have put a 3.63 diff in your Vitesse. If so how is it compared with the original in particular whats the pull away like in first gear and can you maintain fourth on the steepest of inclines?
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Correct Paul, that seems to be the current understanding?
Fitting mini light wheels on a Herald
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Theyd have to be very good for that price (I take it thats not fitted) and I personally would want to pay around 30 pounds each as I think top end tyres are wasted on my Vitesse taking into account how I drive, the milage I do, the conditions I drive in (dry n quiet) and the 50 year old design of my suspension....