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Dick Twitchen

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Posts posted by Dick Twitchen

  1. Aidan,

    What you are missing is a casting called the catch plate which slides into the the white nylon fitting on the main body.  My old Rimmers catalogue has it under 619384 (sounds like the Triumph nos) but any of the usual suspects (Canley Classics etc) or Mike Papworth (details in The Courier) has lots of bits lying around.

    Dick

  2. Mike, 

    Echo what all the above have said.  When I rebuilt my early mk1 engine I took it one step at a time but sourcing decent replacement parts was the biggest issue; in the end I avoided R......... and stuck with either suppliers of NOS or those who actually do work themselves.  Clive's comment is particularly perinent; I was already psyched up for a re-bore but on dismantling a hone and some over size rings from Jigsaw (preferred supplier even if slightly more expensive) was sufficient along with a re-grind on the crank (same source of bearings and advice).

    Dick

    ps Loctite 574 cured my leaks!

  3. Roger, 

    Assuming the arrangement is similar to a Mk1, and my memory is not failing me, not too difficult but you need to undo and move to one side the centre section of the dashboard to get at all the retaining screws.  I fitted my extra dials in a panel on the dash support pad behind the gear lever (where the radio stowage normally is) and put the radio under the passenger shelf.

    Dick

  4. Jon, 

    Had something similar when I fitted a new master cylinder.  Leak initially stemmed by reducing the level of fluid in the cylinder to about halfway and then when driving the car no leak thus pointing to the cap not sealing properly.  Tried one new cap with no success, tried again with another and sorted; on investigation the 'rubber' seal was a slightly different thickness and consistency (if that is the right word).  I would suspect the leak occurred the last time you used it and check the seal first, and mine uses DOT 4 which also left a similar yellowish residue on the aluminium.

    Hope that helps.

    Dick 

  5. Ben, 

    My Mk1 has all Smith dials in accordance with John Thomason's Guide to Originality, and also shows Smith's for Mk2 & 3 but the Mk1 has chrome bezels.  Speedo should have 3 jewel lights and be 0-140 in 20mph steps.

     

    For some reason when I restored mine I seem to have transposed speedo and tacho positions; what an admission but they still work fine!

    Dick

  6. Fully agree with Clive's comments.  If you have the time, space etc this is not beyond the keen amateur as long as you recognise your own weaknesses as well as strengths; do not attempt something beyond your own capabiliites and the only daft question is the one you did not ask.

    Not sure where in the country you are but I am sure local group can provide details of a local Triumph/classic friendly garage and useful machine shop.  If I have had to use others then I tend to opt for me supplying the parts, usually Club Shop, Jigsaw or Canleys, so I know the standard of parts being being used.

    Dick

  7. Joachim, 

    I used GRB209 when restoring my '67 Mk1 and have had no issues, although sourced from Canley Classics following frustrations elsewhere.  Same Part Nos is shown for Vitesse with the same engine. I would be tempted to buy from someone who actually uses the parts on their own work even if having to pay a premium; Jigsaw does it for me.

    Dick

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