iana
-
Posts
392 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by iana
-
-
Paul - thanks - I'd never heard of rivnut until your post - that would be an ideal solution.
-
I did consider unbolting the valance but the chrome over riders were well wedged in and I decided against it. The trim is back bolted on now with a good coating of wax behind, but I think it ideally needs a captive nut welded on (a task for another year)
-
I suspect you’re right about a PO bodge, I’m uncovering a few strange fixes at the moment.
-
I’ve taken the centre section off to spray protection wax behind, now I can’t fathom out how to refit it, it was fixed with a machine screw and nut, I can’t see a way of accessing the rear to fix the nut, on rimmers catologue I think it references pop rivets. Can anyone throw any light on how it’s fixed or a knack to accessing the rear of the valance.
-
I had a similar issue with my old GT6, the car was previously owned by a chap who used a fuel additive, somehow the foil covered disk had fallen into the tank. The car would tootle along fine for miles, the problem identified its self whenever I accelerated hard, the car would cut out and wouldn’t restart. I spent ages and a considerable amount of money replacing suspect parts and it still occurred. I eventually found the problem when in frustration after it had stopped yet again I removed the fuel pipe from under the tank - no fuel!
Left the car for a while and then drove it home and proceeded to drain the tank to inspect the inside. Couldn’t see anything and as the last last dregs were removed the silver disc slipped across the fuel pipe - removed the offending item and the car was fine thereafter.
-
Pete, thanks for the explanation of how the reserve tap works, Ive had a go at tightening the nut as suggested, it was very loose, I will check later to see if the smell has gone and again tomorrow (it was certainly less noticable after I'd tightened the nut)
-
3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
I would check the olive tightness out as fuel slopps about and pongs emitt easiliy from small leaks
New tanks do not have this love it hate it idea fitted just the simple union
Its a std sleeve nut and may only need a nip up ....well the solution is easy, doing it ,, let us know
Pete
Pete
Thanks for your help.
Ive tried a temporary bodge for this weekend as we want to use the car. I have spent a couple of hours trying to find a detail showing how it all goes together for a proper fix - am I right in thinking its a captive threaded hole in the top of the tank, with a length of of curved pipe held in place with a brass nut?
47 is listed as nut and 48 is listed as seal.
The brass nut did move when I moved the lever to the correct position so it could be loose.I cant find any refernece to this in either the workshop manual or the haynes manual.
-
Thanks Pete, that now makes sense why it worked at a 45 degree angle, I’ll learn my lesson about over filling the tank, I filled it to the brim this time, I’ll stop next time when it clicks off and see if that makes a difference.
I’m having to re-learn all the quirks of old cars again!
-
Is there anything I could put round the valve to stop the seep? Someone suggested a soap bar.
Daft question as I’ve never had a car with a reserve tank, can someone explain what happens inside the tank when the lever is rotated (puzzled as it was at 45 degree when I started looking)
-
I’ve found the source of the leak, it’s the fuel tap, so I’m guessing I may have overfilled the tank as I hadn’t noticed the smell before.
Does it matter which way the fuel tap is angled as it’s currently at 45 degrees which seems wrong
-
Thanks for the replies.
The rubber pipes looks relatively new rubber, they look new but they’re aren’t R9, I hadn’t realised they became semi permeable to vapour.
Ill move the replacement pipes up my list of jobs todo.
-
Filled up yesterday, been sorting out a few things this morning in the boot and theres a noticable petrol smell, Ive left the boot open to vent it.
Is there a breather pipe on a vitesse tank? I cant see reference to one in the catologue.
Ive had a look and the pipes look ok and dry (its on my list to change but it looks OK) - perhaps I just put too much in the tank.
-
Took the car for a run out today, the heater seems to be working a lot better now, so the reset of the valve seems to have got water flowing through the heater. Now just to sort the thermostat and an anti freeze refill
-
1
-
-
I’ve now found all the old stuff, it’s been packed away for best part of 10 years, there’s an old colourtune kit, a gunson lo-gauge, an ezzibleed kit which is incomplete and a carb balancer; so all in all not too bad I guess. Just need to see what actually works and if it doesn’t is it fixable.
I’ve found 2 timing lights
-
Just working through my old tools to see what I kept and what still works.
I had a Halfords multi meter which appears to have died, anyone recommend something similar?
i have also found a gunson digimeter 320 which appears to work so would I be correct to assume everything I used the Halfords one for the digimeter will do the same but with a digital display? (Can’t even remember buying / using the digimeter as I preferred the Halfords one)
Also my old Gunson timing lights appear to not be working so I will have a fiddle with them but I may also be in the market for a new timing light.
-
thanks Pete, is it a good idea to take the thermostat out to check or am i best leaving it alone?
any suggestions what I can do to minimise the risk of shearing the bolts?
-
top hose now replaced, and car ready for a run, since I altered the heater valve cable to allow the valve to fully open, I think the hose was getting sllightly warm so hopefully with a decent run it will free up. If not Ill remove the valve and have a look. Ive decided as I dont know what the coolant liquid is, Im going to replace with a known product (any recommendations?) As Im changing the fluid I will flush the system out and give it a clean with washing soda. Im going to check each hose, is it worth putting a new thermostat in whilst the system is drained?
whats the best thermostat rating for all year round use?
-
Well my fan belt I ordered has now turned up at last, it’s fitted and onto replacing the top hose and sorting the heater. I’ve reset the heater value control so it fully opens, however still no heat, so on with the cleaning. The antifreeze solution is clear, any ideas how I can establish what it is or to what rating or is it better to just replace.
One the heater only one hose was getting warm so im guessing it’s clogged up. But whilst I was messing arround with the fan I felt it blowing air out via the mesh panel on the top of the bulkhead - is that correct as I thought that was where it took air from?
-
Pete, thanks for the suggestion of washing soda (Ill get some tomorrow from wilko when I pick my oil up) is it a case of putting a couple of cupfuls in give the car a few runs to get it circulating? Will it harm if its left in for a week?
I ordered the car builder catologue when you suggested it previously. It has just turned up so I can now see what’s available.
-
I am gradually trying it, fixing the issues as they arise, coolant looks pretty clean, the heater doesn’t seem to give off much heat so there could be sludge in the system or it could just be that vitesse heaters don’t give of much heat (I’m comparing it to my recollections of a spitfire and a gt6 heater)
Perhaps when time permits the cooling system needs a good clean out.
-
I’m in the process of working through a few issues on the vitesse with a long list of jobs to do when time permits, however we are going to start using the car to attend local shows etc, this will involve us getting stuck in the inevitable summer traffic, what precautions / checks should I do to minimise the chances of overheating etc. I’ve got no reason to suspect there is an issue, I’m just tying to minimise the chances
-
26 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:
Cut the old belt wrap it around the pulleys, the overlap is the reduction in length.
Regards
Paul
That was my last resort to finding the correct new length fan belt , I'd measured the new length with a piece of electrical flex and came up with 1040mm - I then did as Pete suggested and this indicated a difference of 40mm on the 1085mm belt, so 1045mm .
-
right decided to shorten the bracket, is this ok, I could turn the backet to Emile the spacer but the bracket will need further adaption.
just need to measure fan belt now and get one. The old belt was a 10A1085, the bit of bracket I chopped off was 45mm to the centre of the bolt hole, so simply do I need a 10A1040?
-
OK thanks, I guess Ill pick the second one and start saving for a silicone set - hopefully the club will do them on offer!
Ocassional miss fire on Mk1 vitesse
in Fuel System
Posted
Been following Paul H's thread about engine not happy cruising. Just returned from a trip out 70 mile each way with a stop on the way up and the car miss fired once on an incline but other than that fine, cruised up at 60mph. Coming back the car miss fired 3 times, twice on an inclined, the other time on the flat. The miss fire is random but only occurs when the car is fully warmed up after say a 20 min drive.
The car starts fine, tickover at idle maybe a little fast at 1000rpm.
Any pointers where to start looking? Im thinking spark plugs, coil or possibly fuel getting too hot over the carbs. The car has twin Su's and the fuel feed to the carbs is as the photo - Im wondering if this is causng a fuel vaporisation issue (can someone describe the syptoms) as when I got home an put the car away I lifted the bonnet to check all ok,and the carb to carb fuel feed was very warm but not hot.