iana
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Posts posted by iana
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The engine has a blanking plate currently fitted, however the car is fitted with Su carbs with a very odd breather set up, my plan is to vent the carbs into the rocker box as per a spitfire, use the crankcase breather from a triumph 2000, and remove the smiths valve arrangement. The manifold take off will then feed the brake servo. And as a final adjustment I will revert to a near standard air box setup (I’ve got an air box that will fit on the su’s)
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I’m fitting it on a 2l early Mark 1
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I’ve just fitted a new tunnel, I got it from Nigel Hook on tssc Facebook site, it fitted really easily, has an access hatch for oil topups, and the gear lever hole came precut and the gaiter was one of the easiest I’ve ever fitted, far better than the grp stuff I fitted in the past.
Heat insulation wise I got some foil faced mat, self adhesive and fully insulated the inside of the tunnel, all joint were then taped with aluminium tape.
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I'm in the process of reinstating the engine block breather pipe - I need to locate a couple of gaskets (124954), a baffle (128870) and the mesh wire infill (129101), I assume that these parts are long out of stock, the gaskets I will make using gasket paper, the mesh infill is a coarse wire wool, any ideas on the baffle plate - I am thinking about making one out of a thin plate (copper or aluminum) and drilling a series of 1mm holes.
Another idea is to use something like:-
This would then be bedded in a hylomar or similar sealant and fixed to the block.
Open to suggestions.
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I mainly wanted it for applying waxoyl, as an air duster, and inflating tyres etc. Maybe to drive a air ratchet and a small sand blast gun but that’s the lot. I tried waxoyl in a spray can - Very messy to use and the nozzle seemed to clog up within seconds and couldn’t get into the awkward places. Not having a compressor would suit me better in some ways as it’s less clutter in the garage!
I did think about a waxoyl sprayer as that if it worked would solve my main requirement.
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Tony thanks for the comment - I did wonder given its price point. I’ll spend the money more wisely.
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Has anyone tried the Lidl compressor - it looks like a bargain, I had been thinking about a compressor from SGS engineering which is just shy of £110 at the moment.
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watsona6 theres a gt6 workshop manual on this site - the door lock / handle is the same as a mkiv and 1500 spitfire - this may give you an idea.
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I popped the rubber cover off the sender unit - its the old screw fixings - I will order a new cork gasket before I remove the sender, however what sealant do I use with the gasket (its currently a red mastic)
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Dave thanks for that advice, I may leave it this week as I want to use the car later this week and next week. It probably needs a new seal where the glass bowl fixes as I doubt that will survive being taken apart.
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The fuel pump looks very dirty, so I’ll order up a refurb kit, I’ve got the gates fuel pipe to do the swap so I’ll get on with that and I’ll clean through the copper pipes.
I have just noticed that the rubber seals just before the pump is in very poor condition.
I will check the hose at the tank as I did have a problem with a fuel leak a while ago (the tank pipe nut was loose)
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It not like that so either a herald tank or a replacement new tank. Is that 9 gallon capacity - if so a range of 200 miles ish.
If the one on the car is 6.5g that’s a range of 140 miles ish and that’s about what I’d done.
I need to get in the habit of filling up more often!
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I am still trying to solve the very occasional splutter from the vitesse, the tank looks like a herald tank but it could be that it was a new replacement when the car was restored in 1995. Is there a way of confirming the capacity? I understand the herald tank is 6.5g and the new tanks slightly more but probably not to the same as a vitesse tank.
Im starting to wonder if i am sucking crud into the fuel line when the fuel is low. The gauge is very inaccurate in that I did 90 mile from full to 1/2 and 40 mile from 1/2 to the top of the red segment.
I was planning to renew the fuel pipe anyway, so Im also thinking to refurb the fuel pump (it does look dirty and the filter probably hasn’t been cleaned for years) I was also thinking it may be a good idea to take the tank out and give it a good clean and see what crud comes out.
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Thanks, I’ll leave alone and get on with other checks / repairs.
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I’m working through checking a few things with the ignition - I decided to check the coil - it’s an inter motor ref11040 (I think) tested in 2009.
how do I get the relevant ohms performance figure, it’s reading 2.8-2.9 ohms on the LV side and on the HT side it’s 8790 ohms but have no benchmark to check against.
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Doug when the compression tests were redone with a different guage the readings 1-4 were all around 120 - 130 and 5/6 was down at 40 (can't remember the exact numbers). What we did find however on stripping the manifold was that the recently fitted manifold gasket was poorly fitted around cyclinder 1 and also the quality wasnt the best (this had been done by my local garage so Ive learnt my lesson and wont bother using them again and I will be wary with the parts supplier as well)
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After a day of working on the car with a local area member, the compression test was redone to confirm the results, this gave similar results so the decision was made to remove the head and see what was found. The head gasket had failed between 5 / 6 see picture (the oil was to check the pistons were ok). The head was washed down and checked, I need to order parts now so there will be a delay until later this week.
Its a 1967 MK1 vitesse, any recommendations of a supplier (i was going to use Paddocks). Theres a few other things I need to order to put the car back together - any ideas where I could get a bottom radiator hose? They appear out of stock at the places I'd normally use.
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Thanks all, the issue is beyond my abilities to fix so have sought help. I'll update after further investigations as to the issues found, the plan is to re-do the compression test tomorrow to confirm the differencies between the cyclinders and take it from there.
I'm certainly on a steep learning curve with this car!
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We tested all 6 cyclinders then tested the first one again, and got the same reading.
Clive, I’m assuming brittle is throttle (predictive text) - no the throttle wasn’t fully open
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Today hasnt been a good day, after a good drive in the vitesse the plugs we removed to check the state of tune of the carbs, adjustments made but the car was running badly. so in the end we did a compression test on the vitesse, the results are 220 , 140 , 140 , 140 , 75 and 75.
More investigations to follow but I'm assuming cyclinder 5 and 6 would suggest a head gasket failure, what would the cause of cyclinder 1 be?
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Thats tomorrows job sorted then, I have a steel washer that is 11.5mm i/d which is close to 7/16. Ill lightly grease the inner cable before refixing. Just hope the weather is better at the weekend so I can take it for a test drive.
Couldn't wait so I installed the washer, angle drive, greased the cable and took the car for a quick test drive before the weather turns. The speedo needle was fairly stable, better than before so I'm happy! I won't try the silicone grease / gel.
Thanks Pete.
Tomorrow I will put the tunnel and carpet back in.
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Pete - I'm confused a with the washer size / position - on supplier Ang the drive comes with a copper coloured washer, another website shows 2 washers.
Are you just recommending the washer on just the gearbox side of the angle drive? And is it just a bog standard steel washer? (I was going to use a 17mm o/d 8mm i/d (is the i/d relevant?)
Whlist out on the test drive today the speedo seemed to fluctuate more than before - is there a simple solution to improve matters (I know it will never be perfect)
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Pete, Im guessing this is the type you have (paddocks 608401), I swapped one on the GT6 I had years ago - it was a lot more hassle than the one on the vitesse, now Id go straight to a blade type fuse box (I intend to swap the vitesse completely on to blade fuses over winter.
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Pete I’d definitely swap the fuse box, on the vitesse I swapped for a replacement original style as an interim repair - I have a blade style holder on the car that I used when rewiring the lights etc.
The blade fuses are a definite improvement. I used a supplier called alm solutions via the dreaded eBay but they are a proper company who you can contact.
Crankcase breather - vitesse
in Engine
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Dave thanks for that photo, thats a similar setup to what I had on my GT6, so in theory I can connect the carbs to the ocker box as the photo. and then the servo off the manifold?