Brooky
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Posts posted by Brooky
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3 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:
Name and number please!
Ian
Will take a pic of it when home from holiday Ian, its aircraft grade, can be used where there is no gasket and will seal, good stuff 👍🏻
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On 09/11/2018 at 13:18, Colin Lindsay said:
It seems to have been recovered; let's hope in good condition with no damage.
According to the TV last night car crime is on the up again; over here we have a lot of 'creeper' burglaries where the thieves enter a house and will take keys from the owner's bedside while he's asleep only inches away. The worrying thing is that they often visit the kitchen first and get the biggest knife they can find, which is then left lying on the stairs or floor afterwards. Scary!
Thieves can only enter a house successfully if theres no burglar alarm on, mines always on, all day and at night, have to where I live, dont trust anyone lol, and have my walther r8 22 air rifle at the side of my bed
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On 23/08/2021 at 16:10, Mathew said:
Lucky to get them apart, i have some i have to decide which bit to sacrifice! Still have a few of each spare so don't have to decide yet.
Should come apart easily enough, just time consuming, took a whole afternoon to cut them each side ( presuming you have an air saw but seen some electric ones for around 25 quid)
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Managed to air saw the vertical link trunnion bolts ( what a swine they are when seized ) all rebuilt with superflex polybushes, ready to refit after my hols 😎👍🏻
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Diff checked, its mint no play anywhere, new seals, gasket fitted and joints sealed with aircraft sealant, brilliant sticky stuff, never had a leak on anything with that stuff. Bolts all torqued up correctly and copper greased. A bit nearer to getting the body back mounted
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1 hour ago, Mathew said:
Nice and clean. Alot nicer when you haven't got to work in rust! Hopefully assembly will be straight forward.
Just waiting on the superflex bushes, wire brush the drive train and coat with ACF50 😎
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Finished rear half of chassis, a bit more to do to get the rest done up yo where body sits then can reassemble
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8 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
yep the long bolt on the daughters Spit Mk2 came out OK when I replaced the diff siilarily a friends 1500 Spit, but this is Aus and heavy rusting isn't a big issue. also copper slip ensures future maintenance is easy.
Yep I always use copper grease rebuilding stuff like that, it must have had a smear back in 1990 as it literally pushed out as I turned the ratchet. Strange thing with this car is it had 10k spent on it, full bare metal respray, only 20k miles put on it then apparently parked and not used, so I was thinking has it got a fault like they thought the diff was making a rattling noise and its been this bolt rattling etc?
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8 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
Over engineered? why do I need a nut, corrosion twice as effective in holding things together! Ha!
I assume the long bolt came out with persuasion , I never understood why all models except Rotoflex Vitesse had one long bolt wheras the Vitesse had two short bolts, it doesn't seem an access issue as it's located out of the transmission axle/rotoflex alignment.
No, the bolt came out no problem as did all other nuts and bolts on everything else, no heat needed couldnt believe it lol
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This was a good one today, bearing in mind the car had been fully restored 89/90.
No nut on the rear long bolt holding the diff to chassis
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Yeah, plan to get more wire brushing done at weekend, done the most fiddly bit the rear, lots it wont get into but etch priming and blacking soon as its done then I can get putting it back together, it will be coated in ACF50 afterwards too 😎
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Wire wheel day
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Shultz blacked the underside Saturday mornin, absolutely stinks that stuff and very sticky lol but looks fantastic, very pleased with result. If anyone wonders how much you need for the body tub 4 litres is just enough, put it on nice and thick after seam sealing all welded seams etc.
Stripped the rear end of chassis earlier and will be wire wheeling it all tomorrow 😎 thats getting etch primed and blacked, then put body tub back on after rebuilding all suspension with superflex bushes and redoing brake pipes
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Thanks for your reply, Ill need to measure once the tub is back on the chassis, but I will have already used a 1 inch block, see what it looks like 👍🏻😎
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On 28/06/2021 at 10:11, Mjit said:
And the last one needing you to live in a flat area of Norfolk, unless you enjoy the sound of your car bottoming out every time you hit a bump (in a Spitfire at least).
A 0.5" should fit fine, and under an unmodified cover with standard studs and nuts.
A 0.75" will need longer studs but if you trim them flush with the top of the nylocks once fitted will also fit under an unmodified cover - you'll just need a pair of 3/8UNF half nutsto be able to remove the studs next time around.
A 1" will need longer studs and some 'customization'/replacement of the cover.I found the 1" too much, due to grounding and now happily run a 0.75" - but with hindsight would probably have been just as happy had I just gone for the 0.5".
Hello, have you any pics of your car with it lowered less than an inch please? I was thinking 1 inch but.....
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Howdy, back at it at last after revamping our rear garden for my Mrs and having a car port put up then joining to my garage. Just a few repairs to do 😎
I cut the top part of tunnel section away, didnt like the rust sandwich development, just got to put the strengthener section on once Ive made it, finished for today as my Mrs needed me on digging duty lol
Happy days
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I know what you mean but we've all been there in the past and still learning. Mine is the first GT6 Ive done, I was initially worried about doing the sill replacement but after cutting off I wondered why I was worried as theyre straightforward, just more alignment than normal lol
Youll get there hopefully, I just might have held out for a convertible tub rather than convert it unless theyre easy enough to do, chat to Chic Doig hes really helpful 👍🏻
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Wish I lived nearer would take a look mate
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No should be fine, nice dry garage and the tub is about 1 meter off the ground on large axle stands, it will be schultzed soon, only doing the underneath this way, sills upwards is going to be 2k 👍🏻
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Ah yes I agree with that, its a primer not sealer 👍🏻😎
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8 hours ago, Badwolf said:
Mathew - I thought that it may be the case. Yes 2k primer is harder to rub down but it is less likely to rub through. As I have mentioned elsewhere, I did my bonnet in 2k last year knowing that it would have to wait in a damp shed for 6 months before progressing the work. It is in great condition apart from a little section that I had missed under the nose and just needs spot treating. I have a box of acid etch aeros that I'm not sure what to do with as I don't want a repetition of the top coat blistering due to the primer absorbing atmospheric moisture
Usually blistering is caused by moisture in the air line when spraying, theres nothing wrong with cellulose etch primer, thats what Ive used on mine and many other cars and scooters, you just need a decent moisture trap 👍🏻
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Etch primer is used to bond any paint layer to bodywork, Ill overcoat this with black schultz, never had to rub it down to prime, just overcoated with primer before top coat, never had any problems
Seam sealer first though too for welded seams and edges etc
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Got the full floor underneath etch primed this afternoon, can relax a little now I know its not going to rust.
Ive had to have a car port erected as Ive lost my neighbours garage as the bungalow has been sold she used to live in, RIP Jean and thankyou x
Anyway the chassis will go under the carport along with my mini shell under a cover etc, soon have the tub back on the chassis after rebuilding suspension and painting 😎
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Great feeling once you start painting, etch primed the rear of tub and wheel arches, still wire wheeling the front floors but looking good 😎
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GT6 restoration
in My Triumph Restoration Project
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