Brooky
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Posts posted by Brooky
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My sills are BMH too
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The gap at door to sill is the same problem I had when I did my off side, I just welded in a couple of 2mm steel strips to close it to a nice gap. Like most new panels for old cars they need work.
Cutting your door like youve suggested wont work, its too much movement for the skin to not distort, as suggested its the sill thats at fault as they are shit.😂
Best suggestion has been given I think with tidy drawings to, I call it Slit to fit, slit and open up the step sill, I do this all the time, its quite common with bodywork, I slit the whole of my rear wing to open the gap to the door as it was too tight.
Note you may have to pull the lower rear wing out slightly to match the sill. Give it the big hammer treatment, show it whose boss and dont get pissed off good luck, its all doable 😎
Ideally you should have the door fitted while fitting the sills then this can help avoid the door sticking out at the lower rear edge, good advice from Chic Doig when I bought all my panels from him.
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My new bonnet is same really, only wants pulling outwards to make inline with sills, done offside but nearside wants more pulling. Just bend it in gently bit by bit it doesnt look miles out 👍🏻
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Good day on it yesterday and finished spotwelding the lower major section today, some small repairs to do then cut rest of inner sill off and make rear floor section 😎
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Started repairing front floor with strengther where it fits to the outrigger, all welded up, started cutting the old A pillar bottom/inner sill out to fit new one and made a few sections to repair lips etc but.....in the garden now enjoying this lovely weather, enjoy people 😎
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But........................
YOU'RE ONLY SUPPOSED TO BLOW THE BLOODY DOORS OFF!
😂🤪
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Feel better today, door back on after major repair yo top A pillar, just got it off axle stands and now to get better gap with door and bonnet, then on with the sill etc happy day 👍🏻😎
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Did I say easy time 🤣 had one of those days today when you seem to work ya bollocks off and dont seem to have got much done 🤪🙄
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On 07/08/2018 at 15:49, Qu1ckn1ck said:
Unfortunately found burnt out in Thaxted:
I feel sick 🤮🤮🤮🤮😥
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Thats underneath of next section, its triple plated on that section to dashboard, A pillar top to do now, easdy time now its mostly flat plate 😎
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Busy afternoon more hidden rot amazing 🙄🤣
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You could leave a few self tappers in and grind the heads flat maybe 👍🏻
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I think the Kent stuff will be more than adequate for stuff like that 👍🏻
Ive taken panels off this GT6 where the spot wels have literally just peeled off lol
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What parts of your bonnet are you using this method of bonding?
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Ian, I know what you mean re making them better, I just keep telling myself, as long as it out lasts me it will do 🤣
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Cheers Badwolf food for thought, Ill take a look at your thread later
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Badwolf, yeah Ive heard people like the Dinitrol better than waxoyle as it can creep and doesnt set like waxoyle can. I do like waxoyle though, had a midget for 28yrs prior to the GT6 fully rebuilt that and used waxoyle. I wasnt happy with the repair Id done to a rear wing shortly before selling it and got hold of a new wing cut the old one off and the rear wheelarch and inner wings were mint I guess its how the person who puts whatever you use into sections, how carefully theyve done it, because it was my own car you tend to take your time and ensure it gets to everywhere you want it. This GT6 has had new rear wings 30 years ago and theyve applied waxoyle and probably charged a fair bit for that on the invoice, and only squirted it through the big holes in the rear wing boot area, they might aswell have not bothered lol 🤣
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Im thinking more along the lines of being able to paint underneath, which I can with zinc weld through primer. There is no waxoyle in the screen frame and that will help as Ive always painted a car then saturated box sections and roof sections with it. Might just see how many plug welds I can get away with, they went overboard plug welding the one Ive taken off thats for sure lol.
Maybe glue it like you said and a couple of self tap screws, rivets are a no no unless theyre steel ones
🤔🤣😎
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Im thinking repair the rear of frame, then think of how to fix the fresh made one. Im sure it could be self tappered on, it offers no real strength. I might do the frame repair in 1.5mm steel and see 🤔😎
Still got the tub on the chassis, Im a while off taking it off yet but no rush 😆
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Nice one Ian 🤣👍🏻😎
I just cut the windscreen drip rail off the n/s as there appeared to be crusty rust along the edge where the door seal sits, its been changed in the past as it was plug welded on screen knackered underneath so thats getting repaired first, looks ok inside the rest though 👍🏻
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B pillar repaired, tricky bit that, glad its done. Onto the A pillar 😎
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Thanks Colin and nonmember
Ill take a closer look when I get to finalise the bonnet position, it looks like there could be more done to it though 👍🏻
Iain.
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Just waiting for paint to dry on B pillar plates etc. Meanwhile I wanted to ask fellow GT6 mk3 owners, my new bonnet looks like this at the edge to the door. Ive done the drivers side but still needs some work adjusting the bonnet which Ill do when the passenger door is fitted. Anyway where the wing joins the bonnet top the edge doesnt look as though its been finished properly, Ive not got my old bonnet to check, can someone confirm it should be flatter as you can get a good gap but opening the door the edge catches on this bit
Thanks
Iain.
GT6 MK3 bonnet fit meant
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
My bonnet edges needed pulling outwards