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RogerH

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Posts posted by RogerH

  1. Hi Rich,

     have a look here  https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/79703-ribble-tech/

    The chap was/is very pleased with the result.

    If you do go for the full dip process - then you can mitigate the trapped fluid issue by running a hot air gun over any joints to boil off trapped fluid.

    You may still need to open some joints if you see the surface distorted - this is often caused by expanded corrosion products.

    Roger

  2. Hi Pete,

     the square headed screw is in fact a taperlock screw and holds the fork tight on the rail.  

    Quite often these shear off when attempting removal - aarrgghhh.

     

    Haven't a clue about the original question.

     

    Roger

  3. 12 hours ago, jagnut66 said:

     

    I still have my sealed beam headlights, as I have found the ones on my Herald to be surprisingly adequate. I also object to the game seemingly being played out by modern car manufacturers, of who can create the most blindingly over bright headlamps, even when they're dipped......

    When they eventually fail, I have some Xenon bulbs standing by......

    Is that the sound of rifles being loaded?.......

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

    Hi Mike,

    I agree about modern laser beams taking my eyeballs out.

    However there is a very big advantage to LED front light - they draw apprx 10% power compared to filament bulbs.

    This makes your dynamo happy.

    The headlights can be adjusted to NOT blind on coming traffic - but what is the fun in that.:o

     

    Roger

  4. I;m sure part of my weakness is due, as in Wagger's case, a lack of Testosterone. 

    I'm on a hormone course to keep it down, the testersterone that is. It also keeps it down !!:blink:

    I only went in for an in-growing toe nail.

     

    Roger

  5. About five years ago I noticed that my legs were getting weaker.

    They were always pretty good through many sports over the years and all the up/down on the car maintenance 

    Gradually they are getting weaker and weaker.

    At present If I am foolish enough to get on the floor I must ensure that there is something nearby that I can use my arms on to get me back up

    Next week I will be going out to investigate exercise bikes

    And I'm only 72.

     

    Roger 

  6. For the sake of looking like a dynamo these are not worth the hassle.   They run hot and that is their down fall.

    Ge a decent alternator go seriously upmarket and get a denso small alternator - it doesn't look like an alternator

     

    Roger

  7. On 08/03/2022 at 15:00, Gary Flinn said:

    Is it just me getting older or do the standards of driving seem to be getting worse these days?

    I know the volume of traffic is greatly increased, but I'm constantly amazed by some of the things I see whilst commuting the 20 miles or so to work, there seems to be an Incident or accident more or less daily!

    The thing I've noticed the most though is people running Red Lights, I don't mean going through when they are changing and on Amber I mean blatantly going through on Red!!😒

    There is one particular Roundabout with Traffic Lights on my commute through Derby where it is a normal daily occurrence

    I can't recall people doing this on a regular basis when I started driving back in the 1980's?

    What do you all think?

    Gary 

     

      

    Hi Gary,

    you are welcome to come down to Hayes in West London near Heathrow.

    We are a very mixed race community and I think each race is trying to beat the other races to get there first.

    Traffic lights are there only to illuminate the night sky.

    Even the buses know which light has a camera and so continue through on RED.

    We have a specialist Doughnut track (Shopping mall car park) that has nightly events.

    The Uxbridge road and Hayes Bypass double as sprint tracks most evenings -  book early, very popular event)

     

    Roger

     

    • Haha 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Richeee said:

    Hi.   Got to the point now on my 13/60 resto, with automatic conversion, that im goint to start work on the bulkhead and rear tub removing paint and cutting out rusty bits etc. Fitting to the chassis and making sure everything alligns.

    Got a couple of questions which are liable to produce a myriad of opinions.

    I have used wire wheel on a grinder on some of the areas but reluctant to use on visible panels like wings etc in case of surface damage.   Been using some screwfix 'no nonesense' paint stripper but not really effective.    Which paint strippers do others recomend.?   Or how do others remove the old paint and crud.?

    Also was looking in the club shop at the paint , but the product details dont appear to say if cellulose. Think it is.    Being a farmers boy and worked on buildings for most of my life my primer of choice is normally red oxide .   At present ive started using a red QAD red zinc phosphate primer.   Is this ok for later use of the shops paint. ?  Or would rattle can etch primer be better. ?  Could be primer for a year or so in a domestic garage. So need something that protects before its professionally painted on the top half. The bottom half , underneath, i will do myself.

     

     

    Hi Rich,

    I used StarChem Synstrip PS-50.  This works. Do NOT get it on your skin - it works.

    My last 5L can cost apprx £30.  it is now in excess of £90 wow- what happened there.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384381203784?hash=item597ee7b548:g:mtkAAOSwSIRgU7uq

    Whatever stripper you use cover the area with news paper after application. This reduces evaporation and intensifies the effect.

    Roger

  9. Hi Folks,

    we (me and the owner have a top cover from a TR gearbox. I believe it an early(ish) example as it has a 7mm thick front flange.

    The standard 3/8" diameter balls (Moss P/N  BLS112) for the selector rod interlock do not fit into their holes in the webs between the rods.

    Item # 45  Balls

    BUT more puzzling there is no way that the holes for these balls could have been drilled as there are no

    access holes (with core plug  Item # 28 with above link) on the outside (typically where the reverse lamp switch would screw in).

    Question 1 - were these top covers ever fitted with smaller balls.

    Question 2 - has anyone come across a top cover with NO access for the interlock web holes to be drilled.

     

    Roger

  10. Hi Folks,

    fitting a fuse between the Alternator and the loom may cause more problems than t fixes.

    The alternator can't over load the loom UNLESS you attach too many power hungry accessories. It supplies what is asked of it.

    The fuses are quite fickle. If the fuse pops you lose your system.

    Why not get the bearing sorted

    Powerlite do some nice alternators.

     

    Roger 

  11. 3 hours ago, Works Spitfires said:

    I got most of the way there a few years ago, but a dodgy repro front wing halted my progress (I have found an original OE one since), and it's sat waiting in the restoration queue since. Most recent picture here;

    DSC00939.JPG

    Looking good.

     

    Roger

  12. 59 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    s-l1600-113.jpg.eeb129892fe341a705ecdf1aac98d857.jpg

     

    If it came down to the wire I'd just use a bolt to fit the threads and get a sleeve made up for the shoulder width.

     

     

    Shouldered bolts tend to be specific to a job - not normally available off the shelf

    I would agree with Colin.  Get the correct bolt then concentrate on a bush

     

    Roger

  13. The You-Tube clips look very good. They give no sense of time taken though.

    Bilt Hambers  DeOxC does exactly the same at  a lower cost.  Thick scale (2/3 mm) may need chipping off and re-treating.

     

    Roger

  14. On 23/01/2022 at 12:03, Badwolf said:

    I got some silicone refill blades off fleabay. They work well but no idea which dealer I got them from, sorry, it was over 4 years ago. I have an offcut somewhere in the spares. I will try to find it.

    Halfords do a longish length of Silicone blade.

    One length is enough to do the two TR4A blades.

     

    Roger

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